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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Im from the land of trolls and vikings, Norway, and i see i have some fellow country men in here as well. Most of the Norwegians in here will notice my username and avatar will know where im located.
Im located south east and we dont get that much snow to be honest but still i have 3 Toro machines.

I bought my first snowblower back in 2010 and that was a Toro PowerMax1128 which i totally fell in love with. It was brand new, bought from a Toro dealer.
I had this machine who never let me down up till last winter when i sold it. and i instantly regret it when the first snow fell and i had to use a hand shovel to get my car out. I dont really have much to shovel, but as im getting older my arms and back dont like this heavy work and i started my search for a new used blower. I ended up with the same type as i used to have and i paid 2/3 of what i sold my old one for so i was a happy bunny.

I was talking to a few neighbours that live across the street. They are in the age span of 70 to 80 years old and they told me that we have a snowblower in the shed that has been used for about 3 hours as they were too old and didnt have the strenght to operate it.
It was a 2012 Toro PowerMax 1028 with Loncin motor and i asked to buy it. I got it for 1/3 of what i sold my initial blower for so you can say that i traded my first one into two.
I need to take the tank off of it and clean out the carb though as its been standing there in the shed with gas in the tank and carb. Its all evaporated but the tank itself is full of rust and gas runs straight through the carb and onto the ground so i guess the floater doesnt close properly.
It started on the first pull but runs rough so a good clean is in order.

I browsed the Norwegian equilant of eBay and found a guy that had an OLD Toro PowerShift that didnt start and i bought it for nearly nothing, like $50 or so and thought i would see if i can get it to run. From what ive read its an -89 /-90 model.
If i can get it to run then ill sell it when winter comes, as long as its good. As long as i can get it to start i can check everything else that needs to be serviced. I havent looked much at it yet but the seller told me that it started when he parked it and now its just dead. He replaced the spark plug with a new one but still no joy and that was when he decided to sell the problem to someone else, me.

The machine looks like its been stored indoors as it looks pretty good for its age and i see on the oil drain that it has wear marks on it so i know it has had some service.Ive checked the sparkplug and it has no spark on it what so ever.
The ignition switch has corrotion on all contact points and i thought that might be the issue.
Does any of you guys wich wires i need to jump in the connector to buypass it?
Ive read on this forum about the interlock module and some people have problems with them as well. How do i remove that unit? Can i just take the connector off of it?
Attached is a pic of model/serial number on the 824

Thanks in advance for any help, now and in the future

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welcome and good luck. many good people here to help. snowblower maniacs....
 

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Welcome . .... much info in this forum ....

You explain a few issues .... without a doubt, the carb has to come off and either clean real good, or most here in the states just replace them, as they are only 12-18.00 here for a new one ... not worth the bother sometimes to rebuild one, and many times they are too corroded anyways.

As far as spark goes, if the mice have not chewed wires that you can repair, or cleaning the flywheel does not give you spark back, then I would say just put in a new electronic ignition. Wont even have to pull the flywheel on the older point systems, just snip the wire going behind the fly wheel and leave the old points there, if indeed it has points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Getting a new carb for an old Tecumseh motor is cheap, if you dont live where i do. Here its more complicated and more expensive.

Like i said, i need to start it to see if its any good and i dont really want to replace a lot of parts on it if the rest is utter crap. Its a cheap machine and i bought it to see if i can bring it back to life. If i can start it i will do a full service on it and re-sell it as i dont need 3 snowblowers. I might even earn a buck or two on it.
Visually it looks good and if i can get the spark and start it i will see if i do something more with it.

Like stated in the opening post, the ignition lock is pretty corroded, it might be that the kill wire is permanently grounded because of it. Pretty simple to check if i only knew wich of the wires that goes to what.
There is a connector with 3 wires + 1 single wire going into the ignition lock but i cant seem to find any schematics on what is what.
 

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Welcome to SBF Mossing.

I have no experience working on Toro machines, but maybe one of the following threads will be of help. If these aren't relevant, then try using the search feature to look for the information you seek.


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ziggy, i was actually reading the first post you mentioned the exact minute you replied, thanks.

This is a great forum with lots of knowledge about everything in it and you guys are over the top friendly and helpful to eachother.
I love it. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
So...ive been reading up and down and watched YouTube videos for a few days when i came over a video on how to replace ignition points and started thinking that i would give up the whole machine. Ive done my share of mechanics on smaller motors but ive never been good with points. Yes i know its simple to do but that part ive never had any luck with.
Then i searched some more and found that my model has electronic ignition.
I havent been tinkering with motors in 25 years but i still know how to do the most, at least in theory.

So, if this motor has electronic ignition, in my theory, without having plucked anything from the motor itself and seen it, the actual kill switch is just a matter of grounding the wire from the coil, right?
If i snip that wire, preventing it from being grounded anywhere, in theory the coil would give power to the plug and it will spark.
If no spark, then the coil is kaputt.
Am i right here?
All you need to start an engine is the right spark and gas.

Correct me if im wrong.

I found new carbs in this country but the price were from the same as i paid for the whole machine and up to tripple that.
This country is stupid expensive on just about everything.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, i have no tools to test if the coil actually is alive or dead so i bought another spark plug, the one that was in might be faulty, right?
No joy, still no spark.
I took a picture of the ignition/kill switch. Can any of you guys that knows a lot more than me point me in the right direction of wich two wires i have to jump/bridge to fool the machine to believe that the kill key is in the lock?
As you can see, the lock is pretty corroded and i cant find my multi meter to check if its working or not.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here is an over all look at the machine itself.
Looks good for its age.
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NIce unit, .... I just aquired an older 724 which runs great ...

By the looks of the heavy gauge wires on the machine, is that meant to start on battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the same thoughts about that but i dont really know to be honest. Looks so though.
We use 220V in our houses here and i dont dare try that. :oops:
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It sure looks like someone modified that for battery electric start .. you can even see that the machine appears to have had the cover over where the electric starter would have went by the rusted tab area for the blank cover on the housing.

Maybe someone here will chime in that has performed a battery start on there unit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I see Mr @Norwegian has the same unit with just the same electrical connectors to the starter, might be a local to this countrys type of machines.
38543 824 Powershift, 1989 model - or is it ...?

The shut off valve isnt leaking btw, its just old vapours thats not cleaned up yet.
I dont really bother doing any maintainance on til before it actually starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, i finally managed to get myself to take the covers off it and explored the wiering and did some tests.
The reason for not doing this earlier is that my body isnt exactly ship shape after a few car accidents and just about everything i do physicly is painful. This is why i always try to do my online research before the actual job.

Looks like the yellow wire is the kill wire.It goes to the coil, but strangely it goes to the starter solenoind as well.
I yanked it off the coil but still no joy so i unscrewed the coil itself and sanded all contact points, even brushed the magnet with a steel wire brush.
Tested the coil with an ohm meter to see if it gave any signal at all, and it did.
Magnet works, tested with a screwdriver.
Put the coil back on, used a laminated paper for setting the gap between the coil and magnet. Did not connect the kill wire, put the lid back on and pulled. Still no spark.

Coil is dead.

Is it ok to use a coil from a 5hp motor on my 8hp?
I see a guy that has one for sale on our local craigslist.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I find them in China (ali express and wish) as well, and tbh thats better for me when located in Norway as Amazon is pretty difficult when having to send to us abroad.

Need to try to find the right one for my machine though.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Yup, thats the one i need.
Found the original part number 35135 and this is spot on.
Coil and customs was $20.
Im a happy bunny for now. :)
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