Snowblower Forum banner
41 - 60 of 77 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Saw-tooth base ring gear and new taller chute fully joined!

The power of tack & test-fit... I used the unmolested stubby as a guide for locating the gear ring and marked the location with a Sharpie. I tacked at each chute opening ear and one at the back for a three-point temporary hold. Once bolted up to the blower, however, I was 8 gear teeth (one rotation of the worm gear) favoring the left side. The difference was a perfect 90° 3:00 o'clock to the right and a nice over-the-shoulder toss to the left. Grumble, grumble, grumble...

"It's not all that much off. I can live with it. Yeah, but every single time you go to use it, you'll kick yourself in the fanny for it not being perfect..."

So, I cut out the tacks, ground everything down to flush, and advanced clockwise the chute opening half of 8 teeth, which is 4. The second test-fit was side-to-side perfectly symmetrical.

Next up? Cleaning and preparing the piece for painting.

This photo is of the final test fit-up after welding fully. I did run a bead all away around the chute and the ring. Given the taller chute, the weld junction will be subject to increased leverage from vibration.
Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Gas Tire


The problem with one-off welding... Only the last 25% is perfect due to getting everything dialed in and a seat-of-the-pants feel for the material characteristics involved.
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive parking light Vehicle Motor vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
So, what's the deal with the banana angle of the tall Ariens chutes from the factory?
I knew I wasn't the only one...

Outerwear Sleeve Gesture Font Hat
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Beanhead

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I think your welding looks fine.
Oh, it's structurally solid all the way around... It's just not as pretty as that imaged couple of inches right there by the worm gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Paint color comparison... The plate on top is RUST-OLIUM High Performance Enamel orange. The bottom plate is RUST-OLIUM Husqvarna orange.



Amber Wood Rectangle Automotive lighting Bumper



The Ariens factory paint on the chute displayed for comparison.
Hood Motor vehicle Orange Automotive lighting Automotive exterior
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Good work, The Ariens factory paint sure is expensive. I have an ariens zero turn mower as well as 24 SHO, so I have a can for touch up. I would not want to buy enough to paint a whole machine that's for sure. I like your work 👏
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
The first coat of paint, RUST-OLEUM, Husqvarna Orange.

I did not mask the factory original finish at all. It's nearly impossible to discern factory OEM paint from the rattle can shoot. Given the chute's finished surface use/abuse while in operation, I'll probably apply five or more coats of paint to the business face. The other areas can suffice with less.

The overlap of the chute/ring-gear will be paint-free and subject to corrosion. However, once the paint is dry, I'll lather the seam with used engine oil allowing it to puddle overnight and seep in. Then, the oil treatment will be followed up with grease pack and a heat gun to get as much protection in there as possible.


Wood Automotive tire Gas Rim Tints and shades


This is the nape-of-the-neck and where the OEM mounting/rotating tab was located. Once again, I did not mask the OEM painted surfaces.
Plant Automotive lighting Orange Gas Tints and shades



The first coat of paint over the welded seam between the ring gear collar and the body of the chute.
Orange Ingredient Gas Kitchen appliance Serveware


The inside of the chute needed wire brushing and painting in the location of the removed nape-of-the-neck mounting bracket. The abrasive grinding disc removal caused the inside-the-chute paint to suffer excessive heat damage. Again, no masking of the OEM painted surfaces was done.
Orange Wood Red Toilet Gas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
Interesting.....does long and skinny trump short with girth.....that seems to be the snow discharge chute ultimate question.

Maybe something in the middle where you get enough length and girth you get the best of both worlds!

Vertical discharge deflector to a cable push/pull setup with remote operation from the flight deck seems to be a good upgrade.....
look at toro 826 old style drum auger chute extension, there wide and tall, the pro of a shorter chute is there is less distance for the snow to exit the chute, very usefull with wet snow, the older chute also seems to give me more precision for close putting of the snow, the chute can articulate more., put taller chute can make it easier to clear obstacle, honestly I rather have the short chute on it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,816 Posts
I found the Allis Chalmers Orange to be great match....

Yeah, tall and large chutes can have pros and cons for each ... depends on your circumstances
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
depends on your circumstances, re: taller chute.
Absolutely! And those change. Which is exactly why I kept the original stubby unmolested and turned to eBay for the subjects of my Frankenchute butchery! ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
The gap you're referring to is part of the Ariens original design. It's slightly more pronounced in my modification since I cut a wedge out of the back of the chute at the base so it would stand up in a more vertical orientation.

Once it gets used to throw some snow, we'll see whether or not remediation is necessary.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Beanhead and tabora

·
Registered
Joined
·
990 Posts
The first coat of paint, RUST-OLEUM, Husqvarna Orange.

I did not mask the factory original finish at all. It's nearly impossible to discern factory OEM paint from the rattle can shoot. Given the chute's finished surface use/abuse while in operation, I'll probably apply five or more coats of paint to the business face. The other areas can suffice with less.

The overlap of the chute/ring-gear will be paint-free and subject to corrosion. However, once the paint is dry, I'll lather the seam with used engine oil allowing it to puddle overnight and seep in. Then, the oil treatment will be followed up with grease pack and a heat gun to get as much protection in there as possible.


View attachment 203275

This is the nape-of-the-neck and where the OEM mounting/rotating tab was located. Once again, I did not mask the OEM painted surfaces.
View attachment 203274


The first coat of paint over the welded seam between the ring gear collar and the body of the chute.
View attachment 203276

The inside of the chute needed wire brushing and painting in the location of the removed nape-of-the-neck mounting bracket. The abrasive grinding disc removal caused the inside-the-chute paint to suffer excessive heat damage. Again, no masking of the OEM painted surfaces was done.
View attachment 203273
I was welding a ring to a chute like this and paused quite a while considering whether to weld all around, like has been done here, or to retain the stitch welding detail as per the factory.
I kept the stitch weld, figuring it has something to do with that ring and chute able to continue turning at various ambient temperatures. Perhaps it reduces the stress on the saw-tooth part of the ring
I would be curious if you find it causes any problem with yours as time goes on.
Nice Work.
I'm also doubtful the length, etc. etc. honestly makes any difference, and have been cautioned as to any double or triple-entendere's by site administration.
So in closing, the difference seems to matter more to those standing behind the chute, rather than those in front!😏
 
41 - 60 of 77 Posts
Top