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Discussion Starter #1
I acquired an early 80's John Deere 1032 that was run only a few times since the mid 90's. My cousin, now deceased, was original owner. Physically it is in great shape. Starts right up and runs strong...used it at Adirondack Cabin this winter. Problem I'm encountering is after running for anywhere between 15 to 45 minutes the engine begins to sputter and then stalls out. Sometimes will immediately restart for a short stint, other times No. After resting for 20/30 minutes she'll start right back up, but only last a short spell.

Engine is Tecumseh HM100 159094J, ser# 4220D

I have:
- replaced muffler. old was the only thing ugly on the unit
- replaced fuel and primer lines
- installed new carburetor
- checked fuel cap...inspected, pushed wire through vent hole etc (old style red cap with fiber disc)

Any suggestions? I'm contemplating new coil/points/condenser and spark plug

I don't have great engine knowledge/skills...suggestions/knowledge sharing appreciated. I hate to give up on this "tank" of a machine.
 

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1 I'd first look into whether it has points, as you said.
2 Then possibly valve clearance/seat loose.
3 Debris in the tank screen (but you've probably eliminated that)

I'll watch this topic - I've encountered it before but not sure I've isolated the root problem.
 

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First thing I would try is replacing the spark plug.
 

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Throwing out the welcome mat for your first post!
Welcome to the SBF from Gettysburg address.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank You for your responses. Engine does have points. Last there, I pulled recoil starter housing and fly wheel...exposing coil, condenser and point housing. I’ll revisit cleanliness of fuel tank (maybe add a line filter as well) and change out spark plug.
I have wondered about possible exhaust valve leak. If it is leaking, could that cause stalls?
I
 

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Did you check the coil gap to the flywheel while it was off? We always used some card stock for that, not sure what size feeler gauge it would be but that can be looked up easy enough. Might as well check the wiring from the coil and clean up any grounds while you're at it.


Have you pulled the spark plug out and check for spark when it doesn't want to restart? Try to compare spark from when it is in running condition to when it isn't if there is spark then.



I don't think a new condenser and points are that expensive but you'll probably need feeler gauges to set the points when installing, it's been a while and I'm not sure of the specs.






That should give you a few things to check and once you get a feeler gauge set then you can check valve clearances on all your toys too..
 

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if the exhaust valve is not closing usually the muffler will start glowing red if it gets bad enough. definitely good idea to check the valve clearance on it tho since it is a common issue with the older engines. my buddy gave me a machine and i cheated when i set the valve clearance and filed the valve and left the head on so i didn't lap the valve. it still ran a lot better after than it did before but i think it took about a month or so of light use before valve cleaned itself up and seated itself better. the proper way is to removed the head but this machine wasn't worth it.
 
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