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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found this for sale not far from me. I’ve been tempted to go get it but I’m nervous. How hard is a new auger to get for these? How much? And how hard are they to change? That’s about the only thing I’m worried about. You can see the parts still attached are bent a bit and then there is what came off.

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40 bucks is like free .... offer 30 ......

If the engine only needs a carb, worth it just for that .... Augers can be welded ... I would be more worried about the auger gear box...... still going to take some effort and time, but if your looking for a project ....
 

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thats a tough call but at the cheap price it is worth the gamble if you can weld. just the engine alone could likely get you $100 if you get it running and the electric start works. i also could be wrong but i think that may be a ariens built JD. since it is less than 20 years old parts look to still be available for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It would seem as though I’m the new proud owner of the above machine. Sorry for misrepresenting it, it is in fact a 724D. Not sure the age. I guess once I have it I will be able to look at the serial number tag and figure it out. Getting it running shouldn’t be too tough. I do know some people, but personally I don’t have a welder. That will be my biggest hurdle. I should then sand the surface rust and make it presentable. Any secret to give the faded plastic some new life?
 

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the machine is about 14-15 years old. you can tell by the engine. pretty sure they only used those ohv tecumsehs for about 2-3 years before tecumseh stopped making engines. pretty sure all tecumseh engines made before 2005 were flat head. someone will likely correct me if i am wrong
 

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That is an Ariens built John Deere. Ariens built machines for JD from 1991 to 2001, their models had a D and sometimes DE after the HP and bucket width (724D).

Murray also built machines for JD during this period, but the Ariens built are the better machines.

Here is a link to some information about your machine:


Should be an easy repair for a skilled welder if all the auger rake pieces are there. A rake from a 24" Ariens of similar vintage should also fit.

I searched for images of 724D machines and they were all OHV, but the 826D machines were all flat heads for the same vintage.


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Carb and pull cord are no problem. Buy a name brand MIG welder off CL for $100-$300. MIG is easier to learn on than Arc plus it's designed for thin metal. You'll need some scrap metal to back it up, however you may need an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the metal to bend it.

The "D" series was made by Ariens, I'm not sure if all the Ariens parts transfer over. Don't look at JD for parts. I have the same machine body but a flat head Tecumseh 826D.

The machine is 15-20 years old.
 

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That is the kind of machine to put some time and money into. There is an 826 D that is in average shape to the south of me (near the PA / NJ border) listed for 285, which the ad says is the "summer price". I would think you could maybe get $200 easily if you get it fixed up and running good, more if you are selling it in the late fall or early winter, especially before a big snow storm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pulled it out yesterday. It’s missing the rope, so I plugged it in and used the electric start. Tok a few tries and a little liquid encouragement, but it fired and ran. Ran best on about half choke. Wanted to cough and sputter when I took choke off. Seems like maybe just a carb cleaning and should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok guys I need help on this machine. My dad and I are trying to take the augers off so we can straighten and weld them back together. We disconnected the auger housing from the other half of the machine. We can not get the pulley to come off the back of the housing. There are 3 bolts that we took off and 2 set screws we took out. We chiseled the key. We tried force last night. Today he took into his shop and tried heat and a pulley puller and said it didn’t budge.
 

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Rust weld takes patience and time with a lot of a good penetrating oil, heat and puller.

" We chiseled the key." ? What does that mean? Did you actually beat on the key in the pulley with a hammer and a chisel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah. We thought the key was what was holding us up so we hammered and chiseled the head of the key off. Still didn’t make much progress. Thinking at this point maybe just sell it in pieces with a running motor. Motor that runs worth $50.
 

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Yeah, actually, you probably made matters worse by beating in on the key/key-way.

Shame, .. looked like a nice machine for a restore... at least you will recoup your 40.00 for the engine alone at least, then sell the unit without engine for parts ....
 

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You need to replace the plug as well as check the valve timing
 

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The pully must be heated to almost turning red "no more" let it cool adding WD as it cools. Must need a very good puller. "Are there threaded holes in the pully?" If yes, they are used with a puller. Could be very hard to get off if the key was swelled by beating. Sometimes pushing the pully ahead first will loosen then pulling back
 
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