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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a late model JD 826 (sn 575xxx). I did not start and hear it run since there was no fuel in it. I took the owner's word that "it ran fine" (heard that before). The blower looked in nice original condition and the price was right (so I thought). Now the "fun" begins. The fuel shutoff valve is missing (new one ordered). The carburetor was replaced but I plan to rebuild the original one and reinstall. There are a few other items that are either missing or need replaced.

First on the list is the module wiring. There is a red wire that is cut off (see picture). I looked at the TM1234 and it appears to be a ground wire. If so, why was it cut off? Can anyone confirm the wire connection? I checked JD Parts and a new module is $166 (ouch!).

More updates to follow.....

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Someone here shared this service manual for those awhile back. Here is the link. I own 4 of those units, they are great machines when working properly. If you just want to fire it up, just leave the coil lead on the insulated block and remove the other leads for now, until you can trace down the problem. I would bet that there is a premature grounding incident causing no spark. That cut wire on the module can be spliced/soldered no problem. You'll want to open and inspect the differential and add a zerk fitting on it. Also, careful not to lose the keyway for the Octagon Clutch plate, as it is one of the tiniest I have seen .... The manual will walk you through just about everything.

You will find the service manual very valuable ... it also has the wiring diagram and some ways to troubleshoot it. . most times it is wrong wiring or a bad connection ....


Here is my fully restored one, and the ones I am working on restoring ....

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No problem and thanks for the information. This is my third 826 but the other two (2) are early models (not solid state ignition). So they do not have the same module. I am waiting on the fuel shutoff valve then I can re-plumb the fuel line to the carburetor. I will then try to start the engine with the replacement carb just to check it out.

Is the Woodruff key you mention PN 26H70? It is missing and I have a replacement (1/8"x1/2"). The clutch plate (M46991) is also missing (disk M45206/M151901 is there). i ordered a new plate ($50.69 - ouch!) and washer (M83361). Where is the location of the grease zerk you mention? Picture?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now I don't own a John Deere so take it for what it is worth, but that wire just seems to be broken off of the ground tie point according to the wiring diagram in Oneancers Technical manual.
I saw the same thing on the wiring diagram. But I did not look further. I will take a closer look and see if there is a broken terminal at the ground point.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I do not see a terminal with a broken red wire. Again, I will try starting it later this week/weekend and find out if it will run with the broken wire. In the mean time make a splice wire with a terminal to attach to the ground point. Guessing it ran for the PO with a broken wire. Looking at the wiring diagram, it is a safety for the auger and drive - to prevent starting with either/both engaged.
 

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From this previous thread, that red wire is supposed to go to ground:
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Kudos to @Grunt for uploading the owner's manual and the tech manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Today I did another look at the wiring harness on the 826. There is one (1) black wire and one (1) green wire coming from the control panel. The diagram shows two (2) black wires. The black wire is connected to the yellow module wire. The green wire comes from the key switch and is connected to a engine ground.

Something I also noticed is there are two (2) throttle levers, one on the control panel and one on the engine (see my original picture). This bids the questions, why two (2) throttle levers and did someone add the engine mounted lever/control assembly with red knob from another engine? Is the module also from another machine/engine? The OM does not show the engine mounted throttle lever. My newer Ariens has the throttle lever on the engine only. Definitely a can of worms.
 

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That unit came from the factory with the throttle up in the dash. Someone at some point switched out the throttle body to one with a handle at the engine cowl as well.

That module comes with the machine and is the safety control for the switch up under the dash, which controls the left and right upper hand levers, which is for the auger engage safety. (i.e. ... the auger is only engaged when one of these is depressed, and engine will cut out if not disengaged before releasing either handle.)
 

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Have you been into the slip clutch differential system yet ..... Usually, they are frozen up and rusted, due to lack of grease ... that's why you should put in a grease zerk while in there. I am sure the axle bushings need replacing as well .....

I am on my 5th one, so ask away if you need any assistance .... :)

You already own one, so I am sure you know how great that zero turn system is ... probably the best I have ever seen, except maybe for the ratchet system zero turn on the Ariens from years ago.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have you been into the slip clutch differential system yet ..... Usually, they are frozen up and rusted, due to lack of grease ... that's why you should put in a grease zerk while in there. I am sure the axle bushings need replacing as well .....
I have not looked at the drive system. FWIW I pushed it around the garage and seems to turn without any resistance. Do you have a picture of the zerk you installed and the location? Did you drill/tap a hole? Thanks!

That unit came from the factory with the throttle up in the dash. Someone at some point switched out the throttle body to one with a handle at the engine cowl as well.

That module comes with the machine and is the safety control for the switch up under the dash, which controls the left and right upper hand levers, which is for the auger engage safety. (i.e. ... the auger is only engaged when one of these is depressed, and engine will cut out if not disengaged before releasing either handle.)
As I mentioned my other 826s are early models so not direct comparisons. After I noticed the second throttle lever, I suspected someone changed it. The original AM38449 is NLA. It subs to the newer Tecumseh engine mounted lever. Now the search begins for an original throttle assembly. Grrrr! I will try to lube/adjust the control and see if it functions properly from the dash.

Perhaps it is time to abandon this "new" unit and work on my older model(s). This "new" unit is starting to be a money pit.

Thanks again for your assistance!
 

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Yes, drilled and tapped a hole for the zerk in the aluminum differential case when it is apart .... I Put one right below one of the gear locations ... I'll post a photo tomorrow ......

A working, greased proper differential , the machine should spin wheels around 360 degrees in place ..... The large cross wing adjustment nut is what draws against the clutch disc nut, which will give you direct drive ..... I rarely tighten it all the way for direct .... I leave it snug for slip drive, zero turn as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Stopping by the dealer today (Friday) to pickup the ordered parts (fuel shutoff, etc.). I plan to work on it Saturday and get it running.
 

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I but 90-degree fuel shut-offs by the bag from Amazon. Also, here is a photo of the zerk fitting I did on the recent JD 826 differential that I am working on, along with a photo of the JD 826 I am getting ready to sell.

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This one I am getting ready to sell in the fore front was in worse shape than the one behind it that I just started working on.
 

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That is the slip clutch differential adjuster .... brilliant setup for zero turn on these units ..... unfortunately, they never installed a zerk fitting for greasing the differential, and many people let these machines just sit, thus requires some effort to bring them back in working order, but once restored, they will give you another 50 years of service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It runs! Today I installed the fuel shutoff valve with some new hose and spring clamps. Installed new spark plug, added some fresh fuel, primed it a couple times, and pulled the starter cord. Engine started after a couple pulls (this was with the replacement carb). Replaced missing parts for the locking differential. Adjusted the travel selector and clutch rods. I did not disassemble the differential but it did 360s with no problem. Installed new "poly" chute hinge. Lubed the auger shaft and chute rotation mechanism. Adjusted the scraper bar (looks like the original bar and shoes with little wear). I ordered new Robalon poly skid shoes from the auction site. Plan to install them so I do not scuff my new concrete driveway. Need to change the engine oil and it is ready for the white stuff!
 

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Nice .... You lucked out on the differential, as all five of the ones I restored were dried, rusted and seized, including the internal left side axle... they cleaned up nice and with the zerk fitting now, will never have that issue again.

Those are 2-inch on center skids ... where did you order Poly skids that size from? I wound up making my Poly skids to those dimensions.

Make sure you use a Full Synthetic 5W30 oil.

Terrific machines ... enjoy.
 
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