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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, quick question....at least I hope. I picked up a 1992 826D (at least I think it is a 92) and I have been doing some work to it, but I have a question. I just replaced both the drive belt and the auger belt, but the auger belt smoked like my grandparents! After further inspection it looks like the belt is rubbing on what I think is a brake pad(?)....is there an adjustment for this? Or did is it because I am using an aftermarket belt by Huskee I found on amazon? Pics attached and any help is GREATLY appreciated!
 

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Try Turning the Impeller By Hand, sounds like it may be stuck or frozen. The Brake pad applies pressure to the pulley only when auger is "Disengaged". There are belt adjustments usually on the idler pulley and also on the Auger Control.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Jackmels. The impeller is spinning fine, even throws snow as it should. When the auger is disengaged is when it touches the brake pad and starts burning....
 

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If it's DISENGAGED and it's smoking, the belt is still taking power from the engine sheave above, which would indicate the belt is too short. Or it could possibly be around some other belt keeper?. With the belt cover off, you should be able to see if the auger belt is still rotating even with the handle lever not engaged. The belt should not be rotating if the handle is not engaged. Maybe the PO has the idler pulley adjusted way too far in and your still getting enough friction to continue the belt running. There is a spring wrapped around the rod that controls the brake and idler bracket that when the handle disengages, turns the idler pulley away from the belt, and oppositely pivots the brake pad to contact the auger pulley to stop. Only way for the belt to cause smoke at this point is if the belt is still taking power from the PTO sheave.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I took off the belt and compared it to the original belt, it is definitely shorter. SO...is that because the old belt stretched and the PO just adjusted the idler pulley to make it work or is it because the belt is truly not a perfect match....who knows.
 

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The belt could be a too small width, narrower? A 3/8" 3L width rather than a 1/2" 4L belt? If too narrow than it will sink lower in the pulley and be grabbed and not be allowed to slip.
 

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JD lists it as AM128890, 1/2" x 38.8", Don't know what you got from PO, best to check manual and start fresh from there. Doesn't mean you can't get aftermarket. That's an Ariens machine anyway, so you should be able to cross over to an Ariens part or find correct aftermarket ones also. Typically JD prices are completely out of line, but every once in a great while they are the cheapest directly from the dealer. It is rare, though.
John Deere - Parts Catalog
John Deere Auger Drive Belt - M128890
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As always, thank you! Going to put old belt on for now and see what happens.

This machine is fighting hard though! It ran only at full throttle so I took off carb cover and omg there was SO much crud every where. I took off carb and ran through ultrasonic cleaner....disgusting. I cleaned as best I could and put in new carb kit....now she runs great but leaks like crazy when off. I've taken off carb and changed bowls and I even made the float under spec for the clearance, but no luck. Ideas on this one?
 

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Sounds like the fuel inlet needle is not seating allowing gas to come in.

Take the fuel bowl off and push the float up, the fuel should stop.
 

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Couple things to check, did you remove float and try to put it in fuel or even water. Force it down into the liquid and make sure there are no bubbles. Float should pop right back up on top of liquid. ANY bubbles, you have a bad float which will cause leaks. Shake it by your ear, you should not hear anything. If you hear sloshing, it's done (float/bubble test should reveal this as the float won't pop back up and "float."
Usually leaking when off could be the needle and seat (are you sure the seat is there?). The Tecumseh rubber seat has to be installed correctly to seal. Grooved side goes toward body of carb, flat side (with a number on it) goes toward the needle. When installed on machine that means the grooved side is up, smooth side down. Tecumseh calls for the needle clip to have the long open end wire be pointed toward the choke/air intake side to be properly placed (not the biggest issue as I've seen them work both ways).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So out of frustration I wasn't thinking straight. When it first leaked I left the carb on and took the bowl off. I then pushed up on the bowl to decrease the tang distance. Duh! That opens the needle and doesn't seat it as deep as necessary. So, once I realized what I was doing (while taking a break and doing something else), I ran back to it, and opened the tang. Now in for lunch, then back out to see if that worked.
 

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Dpregs, Missed the pic when you first posted it. Assuming you did not spill your morning coffee in the solution, wow, it was pretty dirty:wavetowel2:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
nope, not coffee....just nasty. and that was AFTER cleaning the crap out of it with carb cleaner! Those ultrasonic cleaners are amazing!

Well, changed out the belt and no problems now. Blew snow without issue...so that belt stays on for now.

Carb issue worked out, and she is all adjusted and running fine.

New fuel filter installed too....just because this was a dirty machine.

I paid $40 for this machine because the guy said it ran fine, the only issue was that it didn't drive. I thought, easy, drive wheel replace. Well, once I finally got around to looking at the machine, it turned out it was fairly neglected. The scraper bar was gone as was the metal where it attaches. It was covered in dirt and other crap and was all rusty on the bottom. You know the carb condition. The spout angle lever didn't work, and a few other things.

SO, I finally got into working on it the last few days. I cut out the worn out metal and welded on a piece of flat stock with new holes drilled to attached a new scraper bar. I sand/wire brushed all the rusty spots I could and primed with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. I reattached the spout control, easy fix. Cleaned and fixed the carb (THANK YOU ALL!). Changed out the old plug. Added a fuel filter. Then I got the drive problem.....out of adjustment! Woohoo! adjusted both the location of each gear by adjusting the linkage, then tightened up the drive wire and viola...she moves.

SO...for $40 purchase and probably another $40 in parts.....she's done minus a few coats of JD green.
 

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The new ones work juuuuuuuuuuuuuust fine. I've installed about 10 of them so far on 10 of my church blowers and not one complaint. Including an 828D like yours. Runs BEAUTIFULLY now. The one that came from the factory was a non-adjustable carb, which is a no no up here at a mile above sea level. In fact, it's a no no period. The Techumseh idiots just cheaped out and put those non adjustable carbs on stuff they never should have.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you for the link. I will keep that in mind if I have a carb that I give up on! As it goes now, it's running and blowing snow. Now deciding if I want to keep or sell.

Or...if I keep figure out adding a light. I do have a single wire coming off the engine that produces power. A nice bright LED would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the heads up on the LEDs. I have them on my tractor, but haven't had that issue yet.

Anyone have a good link for LEDs?
 

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Unless the new one is worse than the original, which, given the very poor quality of a lot of Chinese mass produced cheap parts, is entirely plausable.

Scot


just curious, have you ever used one of these carburetors or are you just making a false claim without ever even having used one? how about you buy a, chinese carburetor, try it, and then either say how great it is or how much you hate it, before you make false, biased claims?
 
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