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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. Lurker and now a member. Hoping to get my elderly neighbors JD724 going. If it's in good shape may buy for my oldest 1st time home owner son here in Michigan.

Told it has sat 5 years, has old fuel. Said it ran great when last used. Read the owners manual and followed all starting instructions. Seems like no spark. Fuel to carb and smells at muffler. Seems like has decent compression. 7hp Tecumseh Sno King.

Minimal evidence of much use. Her late husband used another he had to keep this one in good shape.

One item/question:. It has a red plastic key labeled Tecumseh, that you push in to run, and pull back, not remove, to shut it off. The bracket it is on is just hanging. Not sure if attaching it completes a circuit or something.

Otherwise stumped at this point. Next is finding the service manual and digging in. Hoping to get it going to decide to buy it or not, first. Saved a 40+ year old Airens 1032 that is a beast. Hoping can get this one going and get my son started on owning and preserving real machines.

Thanks to all that give their time to help others! Mike.
 

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First post! Welcome to SBF! Lot of smart people on here.

I would remove the wire or two wires behind the key then check for spark. You don't need the key, you can shut off with the throttle. Make sure the throttle lever is up as it also shorts the ignition.

If none, take the flywheel cover off, clean the coil magnets, clean the coil grounds.

Try a different spark plug, Champion RJ19LM

If no spark buy a Nova II

If a spark, then

Drain the gas tank and carb.

Spray starting fluid in the carb to see if it starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, JLawerance. Any relation to Scot Lawrence who runs the Airens snowblower site?

So, got it running. Better each time with mechanic in a bottle. Seems bad fuel and dirty plug.

New challenge, pull rope broke. The way the rope is attached to the 'wheel' is one of the dumbest feats of engineering I think I've seen. The spinning 'wheel' is one piece with the cover that bolts on the engine. the shaft in tje.middle is flared, no nut, no way to seperate. Worse, The rope feeds through the cover and is attached by sliding it into a tight hole in a small plastic cube that is molded into the spinning wheel. Then even worse, , it is stapled to secure through 2 teeny holes in said cube. Misery. Had to cut the staple at the top and use a commercial soldering iron until it pulled out, trying not to melt the cube. Used a thin wire to feed the rope back through the cover and through the plastic hole in the cube, heat 2 very teeny nails red hot and push them into where the staple was. It worked, except I did not wing the spring enough (2 times around) and now 3/4 of it does not recoil. Get to do it again:(

I write this in hopes someone see's what I did wrong before I try again. Or at least someone with the same issue considers buying a new assembly at $40. I wish I would have, but I'm stubborn so I'll spend another 2-3 hours trying again.

That said, the machine seems to run strong and the drive systems and augers move freely and quietly. Seems very robust. Interestingly, even with less than a 1/4 of the pull rope length recoiled it starts with 1 or 2 pulls. Will likely buy it from my neighbor for my son.

I'd bet a nickel they had a new engineer design the pull start assembly; what could go wrong:).

Thanks again. And if I'm missing something on reinstalling the rope, please let me know.
 

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No relation.

You may not like my answer re: pull rope, once it's in your lap, it's less than a 10 minute job, 5-7 minutes. Your rope may be too big duameter, you need a size 4 1/2 or even smaller 4? Some use a #5. Use a gas stove to sear and melt the end before putting it in the spool. After winding the spring 4 times, use a screwdriver to hold it or a C clamp to hold the spool so it does not rewind. The staple pulls out with an awl or screwdriver, no need to cut it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, JLawerence. Just ordered a replacement. Jacked up the original too far. Appears was the original string, odd. Main problem is the staple would not come out without heat and cutting it. Looked 100% untouched. Guess just luck of the draw. Will see if I can buy it for my son for $250. Seems fair with the $40 I put in it.

Now to find a chute assembly for my TRS21. Any leads appreciated....

Thanks for your help here!
 
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