Snowblower Forum banner
1 - 20 of 74 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So after two years of drooling over this machine. I finally pulled the trigger yesterday and dropped some large cash on this thing and hope its worth it. What I purchased was the Professional 28 hydro, EFI. The auto turn and hydro will take some adjusting to as I had ez-steer trigger control before this. The EFI seams to be nice and I like the non choke or traditional carb. Thing seams to be a beast on my first use today. Lauches the snow to the point it reminds me of the snow making machines on the ski slopes lol. So is there anything that I need to be on the watch for? Any tips or advise with this monster? TIA.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
For the hydro, One thing to get in the habit of is to always neutral the speed lever before engaging the drive. Then adjust the speed lever to your desired speed. Takes some getting use to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
DRMER....I think I asked this eon's ago. On the videos, they run the drive engaged and just move the lever fwd/rwd back and forth. Can you expand on this as I was not sure which is right or wrong...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
Drive lever remains engaged, speed lever can go on the fly from forward to reverse without releasing the lever. It important to note that speed and direction changes should be done smoothly and not rapidly. No need to baby it, or abuse it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Drive lever remains engaged, speed lever can go on the fly from forward to reverse without releasing the lever. It important to note that speed and direction changes should be done smoothly and not rapidly. No need to baby it, or abuse it.
I did start doing that and it was REAL NICE! I was actually one handing the left holding down the leaver and also being able to steer it with my left hand only while I controlled the hydro forward and reverse with my right. But there were times where I did some wheelies lol and got my hands crossed trying to do too many changes at one.
My old machine had the joystick chute control which was nice compared to two seperate adjustments and it also was able to tilt down further to dump snow close to the machine if needed. The engine speed adjustment I think will come in handy when i dont need to bury my neighbors driveway I guess. Although I would never of given a thought to adjust my 357cc carb unit to be more "efficient".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
DRMER....I think I asked this eon's ago. On the videos, they run the drive engaged and just move the lever fwd/rwd back and forth. Can you expand on this as I was not sure which is right or wrong...
It works just like a hydro pedal on a lawn tractor, but you have to just engage the standard handle drive handle up top and then you can just slide the drive handle forward and literally go from the faintest crawl to an unnecessary fast and slide it backwards to reverse. It is effortless and smooth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
I was referring to the -neutral the speed lever- before engaging the drive.

Let me re-read the last few posts. I get it's infinited fwd/rwd by just handle the up/down. I may be mis-reading/not understanding the neutral/drive comment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was referring to the -neutral the speed lever- before engaging the drive.

Let me re-read the last few posts. I get it's infinited fwd/rwd by just handle the up/down. I may be mis-reading/not understanding the neutral/drive comment.
In the picture of the hydro lever where the arrow is, that's where it is in neutral basically its in beween forward and reverse. Its doesnt say neutral or anything but all motion stops in that position.
You have to engage the drive handle like any other machine to engage the belt to the hydro though once that is done you move this handle foward and backward while keeping the drive handle down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I get it...what ur saying is don't engage drive when it's in in fwd/reverse but start in neutral .
Any particular reason for this ?
@drmerdp mentioned that, so I will let him explain it because yesterday was the first time I used it so I'm still familiarizing myself with the proper functions. I assume its because as I did yesterday when I did that was it would do a wheelie if i had it to fast. I quickly realised that keep the lever down at all times and slide the drive lever back and forth. It was like mowing the lawn going forward and coming back effortlessly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
correct. Meaning what harm or -not- if drive is in slow fwd or slow reverse and then u start drive vs. starting in neutral ?
Personally I dont think it would harm anything if you are in a slow speed and if it in a high speed forward its light enough where its just going to do a wheelie and run away. I dont think it would be like doing a hole shot with a car and dropping a shaft, BUT im not experienced enough with the function or design to make that detmination yet. If the hydro is anything like my lawn tractors hydro which I kick the living Shiz out of then I dont think engagement of the handle while the machine is in forward or reverse will hurt it. But maybe if you're against something solid preventing motion and you engage the drive you may damage something?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
It’s primarily for drivetrain longevity. Why shock the system unnecessarily.

Frictions disks tend to slip then grip, the hydro system not so much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It’s primarily for drivetrain longevity. Why shock the system unnecessarily.

Frictions disks tend to slip then grip, the hydro system not so much.
Yeah you cant make it creap along by gradually using the lever like a friction disc drive. I learned that yesterday
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What I dont understand is why wouldn't Ariens make a reinforced edege on the front of the bucket so when you het the curb or any other cement or rock like obstruction you dont ruin the thin edge of the bucket. Like a round rebar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
jr27246, possibly they don't want there equipment to last too long ? Or, maybe they want to keep costs down. What makes sense to us, may not make sense to the accountants, or the buyers that only look for the cheapest price when making a purchase, not life-cycle costing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
jr27246, possibly they don't want there equipment to last too long ? Or, maybe they want to keep costs down. What makes sense to us, may not make sense to the accountants, or the buyers that only look for the cheapest price when making a purchase, not life-cycle costing.
Probably has everything to do with cost unless someone can add to that. I guess ill just use auto door edge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Anyone have any tips on storage of this machine?

EFI summerizing? Best additive to keep the pump from seizing up as I read in other threads?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Used this thing ONCE. Put away properly, stabilized the fuel and attempted to start today.....NO GO. What a POS and a bad mistake by me to buy this new garbage EFI shit. Guess i have to bring it to the dealer already. Wow

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 74 Posts
Top