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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a Ariens Platinum (921051) 30 SHO 414cc Two-Stage Snow Blower last winter. Ran and still runs like a champ. My issue is lighting. I have a longer driveway out of town and I can’t see if I try and move snow at night.
I watched a few YouTube videos and thought it’s should be simple. I have some wiring background. I ordered some 18W LEDs, a wiring harnesses, bridge rectifier, and a switch. I’ll post links to what I ordered at the end.

My problem, I cannot get proper power to the lights. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Lights: Nilight 60001F-B Bar 2PCS 18w 4" Flood Fog Road Boat Driving Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp,2 Years Warranty

Harness: Nilight 10011W 16AWG Wiring Harness Kit-2 Leads LED Light Bar 12V On/Off 5 Pin Rocker Switch Power Relay Blade Fuse for Jeep Boat Trucks, 2 Years Warranty

Bridge Rectifier: NTE Electronics NTE5322 Full Wave Single Phase Bridge Rectifier with Quick Connect Leads, 25 Amps, 200V Maximum Recurrent Peak Reverse Voltage
 

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what do you mean by you can't get proper power? are you sure you got it wired right?
 

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Make sure your voltage is DC 9-30 volts and that you have the right polarity.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I spliced into the wire running to the headlight. Connected the wiring harness. Spliced in the rectifier in after the switch to the lights.
 

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What wattage is it suppose to supply. Maybe you are overloading the output. Try only one light.
 

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are you running the stock light along with the led light? have you tried testing what is going into the rectifier? if you are trying to run the stock light along with the led light on the 1 circuit you are most likely overloading the circuit. the stock light by itself almost uses the entire wattage output for the 1 circuit. if it has the heated grips wire but your machine doesn't have heated grips you can use that stator to power the led lights.
 

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Without the heated grips on it should still run both those lights and the stock light easy
bench test both lights
attach temp leads wire up 1 light direct from the spliced stock wires see if it works

id think you must have it wired wrong
 

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Only run the load briefly if you only have 1.8V output, you could burn out the coil. Make sure the heated grips are off. Check that the bridge rectifier is wired correctly, how did you wire it? Make sure that neither wire after the rectifier is grounded. Also, when you get it working the led light may flicker, you don't state that you have included a capacitor in the circuit.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I’ll post a pic tomorrow. I cut out the stock light. Handgrips are off. I’ve only tried to power one led. I appreciate all the perspective feedback.
 

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I’m getting 1.8 volts I don’t know why it’s so low.
Where is it you're reading 1.8v ?

This is how it should be wired. There is no AC- . That would just be a wire to the base of the engine or any other good metal ground to complete the circuit for AC back to the stator. 3 amp fuse is just a suggestion.
You can do without the capacitors but if you have flickering they are the cure.

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Your diagram appears OK. Are those undistinguished boxes in the middle of the output wires capacitors?

I suggest first measuring the AC at the fuse (output side), remove the caps, remove the light connection and then read the DC volts. You need a baseline. Personally, I would go without caps. May cause some minor light flashing at low RPM depending on the AC frequency which of course is directly dependent on the engine’s RPM.

EDIT: I DID NOT THROUGHLY READ KISS4FROGS above post!!! Of course the wiring diagram is correct, he introduced it to show the OP the correct wiring scheme.
 

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Not my drawing, stole off internet. Yes the undistinguished boxes would be the capacitor(s). If you use a capacitor it can be one big one or two small ones. Not sure what the recommended rating was :confused:

Fwkes, did you need to switch a wire or two, do you have it working now ?

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Here's my drawing lol. In a stable circuit you go 20% over regulated voltage but here I would double that, so minimum 25Volts. Electrolitic capacitors do not like over voltage at all.

 

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This is why I believe a capacitor will provide questionable benefits without actually making measurements with an oscilloscope for proof.

Most important, the frequency of the alternator output is unknown, it varies of course with RPM. But assume for discussion the frequency was line frequency, 60Hz and with a full wave rectifier the effective ripple frequency is 120Hz. Now take it a step further ans assume the capacitor benefits only after it is charged which means it can discharge on the falling side of the rectified wave form which is 1/4th of the the recitfied ripple frequency. The rectified full wave ripple from 60Hz is 120 or lasts for t=4 milliseconds. I really doubt the frequency produced by the alternator approaches 60Hz

If the light draws 1 ampere which would only be 12 watts thereabout, the delta voltage drop off the capacitor on the falling edge of the rectified output is:

delta V = i*t/c = (1)*4^-3/(22*10^-3) = about 2 volts. Yeah guys, I know, nobody is interested in all the tech stuff. I recommend keeping things simple...............forget about the cap. If in doubt , try adding one and see if there is a noticeable difference.
 

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This is especially true for this guy's LED since it has it's own regulator that ups the voltage even if it isn't 12 volts. If you read the specs on it it says 9-30 Volts.

Specification:
LED Power: 18W (6 x 3W High Intensity LED)
Beam Pattern: Flood Beam; Lumen: 1260LM
Input Voltage: 9-30V DC (fits 12V, 24V vehicles)
Working Lifespan: Over 30,000 hours
Working Temperature: -40~85 degrees Celsius
LED Color Temperature: Pure White 6000K-6500K
Material: 6063 Aluminum Profile, High quality Led Chips, PC Lens
Waterproof Rate: IP67; Waterproof, dustproof, quakeproof and anti-corrosive.
Certifications: CE, FCC and RoHS

People understand better with pictures.

AC



Rectified



With capacitor



With bigger capacitor

 
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