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Bought this blower last winter, worked great all season. Stored in shed all summer, made the mistake of not running it out if fuel so it sat all summer with a half full tank of 88 octane (least ethanol you can get in MN). Took it out of the shed and into the garage in prep for winter and tried to fire it up. Noticed that the primer bulb was only pushing air from the sound of it. Tried starting via pull rope and electric start, no dice. Drained the fuel tank of old gas and took the bowl off the carb. Was gas in the bowl, but appeared clean. Wiped it down with a rag and reinstalled. Checked all the hoses for cracks, none found. Decided to replace the spark plug as well just in case since it looked fouled. After replacing spark plug, I tried priming it again (just air) and starting. No start. Pulled the plug to check for evidence of gas and the plug and chamber were bone dry. I'm not very knowledgeable of carbureted engines so not sure where to go from here. Plan on pulling the carb and cleaning it inside and out and trying to do a pressure check on the primer bulb. Any ideas of what else could be causing the problem? I didn't verify that the plug is indeed getting spark, but it's pretty evident that there's a fuel issue somewhere along the line, and doesn't appear to be between the carb and tank. Any help is greatly appreciated, trying to get this running before the snow falls.
 

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welcome to the SBF

clean the carb or replace it with one off amazon check for spark and a clogged fuel filter inside the screw in tank nipple
 

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Pour a little gas in the spark plug, try; little ether in the carb throat, choke, pump the primer when it starts, little more ether, if it doesn't keep running then take the carb apart and spray it with carb cleaner.
 

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If you have spark try this. Spray a few shots of Seafoam in the carb, pull the plug wire then spin it over a few times. Let it sit for a while. Put the plug wire back and use some WD40 as starter fluid through the carb as you crank it with the starter. A couple repetitions of that usually clears a gunked up carb for me. Just a suggestion. Hope it helps.
 

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Noticed that the primer bulb was only pushing air from the sound of it.
Primer bulbs don't move fuel. Primer bulbs work by pushing air into the top of the bowl and the difference in pressure forces fuel up into the carb body. To use it properly, you cover the hole in the center of the bulb with your finger and push. When you release it, you should remove your finger, uncovering the hole to let air back into the bulb. Then you repeat once or twice. If the engine hasn't had fuel in it for a while or has been sitting it often needs more priming.

Personally I usually prime until I see a drip of fuel come out the bottom of the carb before I try starting the machine but that's just me.
 
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My neighbors never drained gasoline out of their lawnmowers. When mowing season came, they ran like crap the first time they used them. I giggled so much watching them behind my window. But, after one used, their lawn mowers came back to life. So, if you can start your snow blower up and run it for sometime, it should clean all the gunk out and work for you. If you left gasoline in there for too long, then you would need to replace your carb.
 

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start simple,

don't assume, but VERIFY fuel is actually getting to the carb, and into it,

are you sure there isn't a fuel shutoff that you have forgotten about?

after you have cranked the engine, if you remove the spark plug it should be WET with gas
 

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To make sure fuel is getting to the carb, step 1 should be to open the carb bowl drain screw (diagonally placed on side of bowl) and see what (if anything) comes out. If it's dry, you can usually insert a small probe in there and gently nudge the bowl float to dislodge it if it's stuck shut. If you can get fuel to flow, let it run for a bit to clear out the line and the bowl, then replace the drain screw. Hopefully that's all it will take. If not, then it's carb cleaning time. You may want to install an inline fuel valve to prevent future issues. That way you can run the gas out of the carb any time.
 
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To add... If alcohol free fuel is hard to find in your area.. at least finish off the season with it.
I have the same carb.. I leave fuel in my tank rather than run it dry.. I use a little seafoam in the fuel as well.
I start it up once in a while... So far so good.
These carbs do not like alcohol at all

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
 

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To add... If alcohol free fuel is hard to find in your area.. at least finish off the season with it.
I have the same carb.. I leave fuel in my tank rather than run it dry.. I use a little seafoam in the fuel as well.
I start it up once in a while... So far so good.
These carbs do not like alcohol at all

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
I have the same sb and due to ethanol fuel I'm on my 3rd carb. Now I run it once a month with my generator and all is well. I'm in NJ and there is no ethanol free fuel any where near me. It was easier to buy the $15 carbs off Ebay than try cleaning them.
 

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Welcome to SBF Gonzilla
171516


Since you haven't posted in a month I guess you fixed it.


.
 

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I had the dame issue with 2410 friend gave to me. It was seating for more than a year with fuel without stabilizer in the carb. Carb jets were clogged. I cleaned them up and it works like a charm.

First sign of clogged jets - no gasoline smell when you try to start it.
 

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I end up dealing with this all the time. Sometimes even 5-6 weeks without running and I have issue with equipment... I've gotten very good at cleaning carbs.

Pull the drain plug as other's have said and you should have a good steady trickle of gas. Drain it into a cup of bottle so you can check for water or other nastiness.

Then pull the carb and blow out the air bleeds and main jet. I use chlorinated brake clean. Chlorinated doesn't leave a residue line non-chlorinated does but both work. DO NOT use chlorinated around any kind of open flame, even a shop heater. I sometimes even refer to them as summer and winter formulas. Chlorinated brake clean and open flame make phosgene gas which is a chemical weapon.

I find brake clean is gentler on the rubber and gasket parts than carb clean. Use carb clean only when you really need something clean then only on hard parts. Wear a face shield as you're likely to get spray back. Use the tube on the nozzle and if you look up from the bottom in the center you'll see the main. If you look in the inlet and outlet of the carb you'll see the brass pilot jets and other passages. Make sure everything is open and clear and try again.

Brake clean also works as starter fluid. Outside only if you're using chlorinated but a quick blast into the intake and a quick pull on the starter will usually get a few seconds of running. Then you've narrowed it down to fuel.
 
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