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From initial inspection of the Toro, you loosen the back idler bolts and at the very back of the track assembly, there's a jacking bolt on either side to increase or reduce track tension. Fairly simple
Thanks and yes, that is the same as the Ariens RapidTrak, but not my question. Those two adjustment eyebolts and nuts have a very large range of movement to apply enormous tension or very little tension to the rubber tracks. So how much tension to apply?

Does your Toro manual describe a method of setting track tension?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Thanks and yes, that is the same as the Ariens RapidTrak, but not my question. Those two adjustment eyebolts and nuts have a very large range of movement to apply enormous tension or very little tension to the rubber tracks. So how much tension to apply?

Does your Toro manual describe a method of setting track tension?
Yes in the Toro manual I believe it states 1/2" or 9/16" of track deflection with 10lbs of force, between the back idler and main track hub. basically you aren't going to get it precise without a deflection guage. As long as the tracks tight enough that there is still some give in the track when you push down I'm sure it will be fine
 

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Yes in the Toro manual I believe it states 1/2" or 9/16" of track deflection between the back idler and main track hub.
Great, thank you. That is much the same as the earlier Ariens track using the upper drive wheel and two idler wheels (front and back). Similar design to the Toro. That is much the same track tension that my RapidTrak came with. Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Yeh picked up a can of fluid film. 20$ a can here! May have also waxed the exterior today as well haha. Do you guys spray just the chute or do you guys spray the whole interior of the auger housing/bearings.

It got delivered with a quarter of a tank of fuel. I ran the carb dry. Think it's fine to leave that 1/4 tank in there and just dilute it with some ethanol free 91 at the start of the season?
 

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Yeh picked up a can of fluid film. 20$ a can here! May have also waxed the exterior today as well haha. Do you guys spray just the chute or do you guys spray the whole interior of the auger housing/bearings.

It got delivered with a quarter of a tank of fuel. I ran the carb dry. Think it's fine to leave that 1/4 tank in there and just dilute it with some ethanol free 91 at the start of the season?
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When I use the Fluid Film I spray everything and it helps a lot.

As for the fuel I would drain it/siphon it out and make sure you either run the engine to pull all the fuel out of the carb with full choke to get it running again to burn more fuel out of the fuel lines and tank as the last thing you want is to have gum build up on the fuel inlet of the tank.

If there is enough fuel line exposed putting a paper fuel filter with the clear plastic body for small engines and a shut off valve in the line in front of the filter will be a big help to keep the crap out of the carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I have another question for you guys. I siphoned my fuel tank and ran my blower dry for the summer. I was visiting my father and he told me I should leave it full with stabilized fuel because my metal fuel tank will rust because of the condensation of an empty tank. Any thoughts? All my OPE that I've had have always had plastic fuel tanks but I definitely understand where he is coming from.
 

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I have another question for you guys. I siphoned my fuel tank and ran my blower dry for the summer. I was visiting my father and he told me I should leave it full with stabilized fuel because my metal fuel tank will rust because of the condensation of an empty tank. Any thoughts? All my OPE that I've had have always had plastic fuel tanks but I definitely understand where he is coming from.
i drain my tank put a little motor oil in it and hit it with compressed air from my air compressor then take a old plastic bag put it over the hole and place the cap on. the bag will stop air from venting and sucking in moisture. Has worked for me for many years.
 

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I have another question for you guys. I siphoned my fuel tank and ran my blower dry for the summer. I was visiting my father and he told me I should leave it full with stabilized fuel because my metal fuel tank will rust because of the condensation of an empty tank. Any thoughts? All my OPE that I've had have always had plastic fuel tanks but I definitely understand where he is coming from.
your dad is correct
metal tanks full with treatment
my 414cc is metal it stays full and gets started every 2 months for 5 min
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
So as I was running my snow blower at a medium idle to run treated gas thru the system and after about 2 minutes, smoke was coming out of the belt housing. So I shut the machine down unbolted the belt cover and could feel the heat off the auger sheave on the drive shaft. There is almost no adjustment left in the auger tensioner cable off the auger handle for the tension idler. Is this just common for a new belt breaking in or should I be having my dealer look at this? It seemed like there was tons of slack in the belt when the idler wasn't engaged, but every once in awhile the belt would grab and move slowly for an inch or two then stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Needs to be looked at. Preferably by someone on here
Hahah! I disconnected the clutch idler, spring and that resolved the issue. To me it appears the bolt that threads into the turnbuckle does not have enough thread to provide enough adjustment to loosen and fully disengage the clutch idler from the belt. I've tied down the auger handle overnight to see if I can get some initial stretch out of the tensioner spring. If that doesn't work I Will be bringing the spring and bolt that threads into the turnbuckle to the dealer and they can figure out what needs to be done.
 
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