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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All!


Forum noob here. I currently own a 1991 Toro CCR Powerlite-E and was looking to upgrade to something a bit newer and wider. I have a lead on a CCR 2000-E, CCR 2450-E, and a CCR 3650. Anyone better than the other? All look to be in great condition. Thanks in advance.


Lew
 

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Lew,


If I were looking to replace a single stage, and didn't want to spend much, I would lean towards the 2450 or 3650. They are essentially the same machine. Both used the Briggs R-Tek engine, but they manage to tweak another horse and a half out of it, in the 3650 version.


I have a couple of these machines for light snowfalls, as I have a lot of area to cover, but often the snowfalls are so light that it's not worth bringing out the larger two stage. Have to be honest though. I've never paid more than 50 bucks for one, though it'll be tough to find one at this time of year for that price. :sad2:



I might be willing to pay up to $150, but only for the 3650, and maybe about $100 for the 2450, and only if I could verify they still had decent compression. Easy, simple machines to work on and parts can be had for pretty cheap if you order online. Though I would never depend solely on one of these for all my snow blowing needs, they certainly have their place.:smile2:



You probably already know this, but check for the wear indicator on the paddles, because if the paddles are worn, you'll be spending another 30-40 bucks to replace them (diy), as they don't work real well with worn paddles.

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Welcome to SBF.
I have a CCR 3650. 2nd one I've owned. Paid.$100. Paddles still have a way to go before getting to the wear holes. I kicked myself for selling the first one. They're a great blower. I bought it to replace the Ariens 522ss.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies! The seller is asking $150 for any of them but is open to offers. I was going to check the scraper and paddles on the 2450 and 3650. I read reviews of the 3650 on here and everyone seems to like them, so I will see what he'll take. Thanks again!


Lew
 

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well I have a ccr 2450e, 3000e, and 3650e. I've had the 2450 the longest and like the hoop handlebar better than the " u " shaped one on the 3000 and 3650
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So, I looked at the 3650 tonight. Paddles have enough meat left on them to get through another season, maybe two, but the scraper is toast. Started right up, electric starter worked, etc. However, when it started, a plume of white smoke came out. It died down but still had white smoke for the duration. Is that normal for the R-TEK? My 3HP Tecumseh doesn't do that. He did say he bought it last Summer and left the fuel in it so not sure if it's due to bad gas or not.
 

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Yup, white smoke is very common on the 3650 (and most other Toro 2-stroke engines) during start-up especially with the choke on. Try to use a high quality fully synthetic 2 cycle oil (I prefer Royal Purple) and you'll notice far less smoke at start-up. I had 3650 several years ago and a family member "borrowed it" and it's been with him since. Loved that machine. Always started on the first pull, plenty of power and torque, and the crank chute was super convenient and more user friendly than the manual rotating chute used on the lower end models. You picked a winner. Enjoy!
 

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Lew,


I have owned a few of these machines, and fixed up a few more for other people, and my experience is a little different from what you describe.


For sure, when you start the R-Tek up, it will smoke, but after you set the choke to the run position, the smoke should start to decrease, and last about a minute before it disappears entirely. Obviously the time frame is different based on how cold it is outside, dictating how long you keep the choke engaged, so use the one minute as kind of an average.


Keep in mind, that this experience is based on using a 40:1 mix instead of 50:1. So if anything, my machines should smoke even more, but they don't. I have also pulled the mufflers to inspect for carbon build up, and see no difference than if I ran 50:1.



Although I like synthetic oils for my cars, and for 4 cycle engines, I prefer to use a good quality 2-cycle dino oil for 2 stroke machines. I once used a 2 cycle synthetic for a mix, which at the time I thought looked a bit thin, but dismissed it as o.k. since syn oils always look a little thinner for a given viscosity. It ended up destroying the compression on two perfectly serviceable pieces of equipment before I realized what was going on-- so I'll never trust it again....:icon-thumbsdown:


I'm sure other folks have used 2-cycle synthetics without issue, but for me, if it doesn't look thick enough, I'm not going to use it for my 2-cycle equipment, because that minuscule amount of oil that comes into the cylinder with each intake stroke is the only lubricant the machine is going to get.


I once picked up a 2450 that ran good, but smoked like a chimney even after the choke was off, but I bought it anyway because it felt like the compression was o.k. I later found out that the lady that owned it, poured more oil into the gas tank, because she thought the 2-cycle oil was actually fuel for the tank! :smiley-confused009: :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


I could have set that little machine out in my back yard in the summer, gone into the house, and let it run for about 10 minutes, and have no mosquitoes in my yard for about two weeks....:devil:


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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for the replies. I ended up buying it for $110. From reading, I'm hoping the smoke is just water in the fuel since he left gas in it over the Summer. I'm gonna try to siphon it out and put in fresh. Currently, I have been using either Toro or Echo 2-Cycle oil. I'll keep y'all in the loop once I get to cleaning the tank out. Thanks again!

Lew
 

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You must use TC-W3 2 cycle oil for Toro's. It will say so on the label. All 2 cycle outboard motor oil is TC-W3. The word is Toro's run at a lower temperature and to prevent cylinder build up you need a low ash formula.
 

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Lew,


So which one did you get? The 2450 or 3650?


At any rate, that's a good price for this time of year, especially if we are talking the 3650. :thumbsup:



One cheap bit of preventive maintenance you might want to consider is changing out the fuel line for a new one.
On two of these machines, I had an issue with the original fuel hoses, that seemed to want to disintegrate from the inside out.
When I put a new carb on one of the machines, it was only a couple of cycles before the new one clogged too! :banghead:



Long story short, since I knew the tank was flushed out, and had fresh fuel in it, I began to suspect the fuel hose. Sure enough, running a piece of wire through it released a whole bunch of tiny rubber particles from the inside diameter. Cleaned up the carb, swapped the hose, and then I was back in business. I'm not sure if they had an issue with the original fuel hoses on these machines, or it was simply a matter of age, but I've seen this problem twice so far.


Based on that lesson, I buy my fuel line in bulk, as well as inline filters, clamps and shutoffs. So now as a matter of course, I just replace the line with a fresh one, along with a shutoff and filter on every piece of equipment that I buy used. Some might call it overkill, but I call it cheap insurance......:wink2:.
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Discussion Starter #12
I bought the 3650. My Powerlite is running like a champ, so I'll tackle the 3650 when I have a free Saturday or Sunday. Thanks for all the help!

Lew
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So, I went to replace the scaper today. Moved the blower and found a small pool of fuel under it. Took off the back panel and there was fuel all over the backside from the carb down. Took the bowl, filter, and float off (which all looked clean) and cleaned the needle. I'm guessing the float was stuck and didn't stop the fuel which overflowed the bowl. Possibly replace the needle and seat?
 

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if it is a small pool it could have been from transportation. is there fuel tank still have fuel in the tank? i would probably try cleaning the needle and make sure it moves freely first before replacing it. most of the time if they stick there is a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The blower sat for over a week. When I rolled it out to work on it is when I saw the puddle. There is fuel in it and I did clean the needle before re-assembling the carb. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Installing a fuel shut-off and running the carb dry is the hot set-up. As far as a little leakage goes, that's just a Toro marking it's territory.....
 
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