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So after seeing here and elsewhere on the need to not use mere E10 gas in my new Ariens, I have spent hours digging into what the best solution to the problem is. This included dozens of articles and youtube video opinions on seafoam vs sta-bil vs .... At the end I got the impression that while most of them fit the bill for reducing water accumulation, they were all seemingly a hack for not having real old school unleaded gas.

I decided to see if there were any local sources I could just get real gas. I ended up finding YP and Sunoco both had some in their racing fuel product line. The two I found at Sunoco were called Optima and 260GTX (not to be confused with 260GT, which has 13% ethanol). I paid $61 + tax for 5 gallons of Optima from a nearby Sunoco station, which they purport to have a 3 year shelf life.




VP Racing Fuels also have what seems to be even more specifically engineered non-ethanol fuels for both 4-cycle and 2-cycle 50:1 and 40:1 premixed fuels.

:whatdoyouthink: Question I ask myself, and you: Do you think it is worth $12/gal for proper fuel vs E10 corn gas and then adding stabilizer?

Hope this helps to save some of you all hours of research, if you by chance dig down the rabbit hole I did today.

**Would have posted hyperlinks, but being a n00b with <10 posts, I can't.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I get E0 for just a little more than E10. Check this out:

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
This is the same site I stumbled upon -- great resource. Unfortunately there are no pump gas E0 options within any reasonable driving distance in my neck of the woods. I would certainly go this route for anyone that is nearby a station on this site.

Thanks for the reply.
 

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they were all seemingly a hack for not having real old school unleaded gas.

Root, I'm not certain I'd label it hack. It's more like 'trying to keep your OPE running when called upon'.


There is no E0 gasoline available within a reasonable distance of me. I treat the gasoline I buy when it's purchased. I keep a minimal amount of gasoline on hand. This gasoline starts to go south within 30 days.


I won't bear the expense of running racing fuels, etc. all the time. I do keep a modest amount of TruFuel and put that into the tank when I'm putting the machine away for the season.


The racing fuels are typically very high octane and not needed or wanted in OPE. Most of the equipment we run calls for 87 AKI.


TruFuel is supposed to be good for 5 years, if sealed. Life span drops to 2 years once opened.
 

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Absolutely worth it. I've always considered myself lucky I have access to E0 and it's only on average .25 more per gallon. I have older vehicles, an 89 GMC and a 99 lesabre and I only use E0 in them.

That five gallons would last me right at a year just using it in my mower and blower, so $60+ a year would not be a problem.

If I couldn't find what you did the next best thing would be to use E10 with marine sta-bil until the last couple uses of the season then I would store them with trufuel.
 

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Absolutely worth it. Snip

If I couldn't find what you did the next best thing would be to use E10 with marine sta-bil until the last couple uses of the season then I would store them with trufuel.
Marine Stabil will not give the stability you need for long term storage. It's supposed to be one of the best stabilizers, but it's not good enough IMHO.... my prior post showing the evidence: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1036209-post3.html
 

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I have had no problems running regular E10 with ethanol Stabil in all of my 4 stroke equipment. However, I am religious about siphoning the tanks and running until the system is clear.

I did have bad luck in my 2 stokes perhaps due to using store brand 2 stoke oil and have since gone to TruFuel for the small engines. I still drain and run dry at the end of the respective seasons.

For the amount of Gasoline I run through 4 strokes formulated fuel is out of the question.

I do have a listed airport nearby. Are people using Mogas or 100LL?
 
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