Snowblower Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I picked up a pretty good condition one of these blowers for $50CAD (Not running). There is a new carb put in and I drained all fluids and refilled. I also put a new spark plug in and confirmed spark.

It wont start. When I pull or use the electric start it putters for a few seconds (aprox 3) and then cuts out. I done a continuity test on the ignition key and there are two wires at this connection, black and blue.

The black and blue wires have continuity with each other WHEN TAKEN OFF THE TERMINATIONS. They also have continuity with the frame of the machine when OFF the terminations. I assume I have an electrical issue, due to a short? Or am I looking at the wrong area?

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,313 Posts
Most likely if it tries to start and putters it's not a ignition issue, it's a fuel issue. It could be a electrical issue only if it has a bad ground and it's making an intermittent connection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I get what you are saying, however consider that the wires I am testing never loose continuity with each other on or off the ignition key switch. That in itself is a problem.... I will try and take apart the engine block tomorrow to follow the cables bit I am working long shifts at the moment.

What kind of fuel problem could it be, in your opinion?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,668 Posts
You don't mention the type motor on the blower so just some general ideas. One quick way to test for fuel issues is to take starting fluid and give it a quick shot directly into the carb throat with the butterfly open then try to start. If it hits for a few seconds then it's likely a fuel delivery issue. If you pull the plug and ground it to the engine and spin the engine over and you have spark then that's not likely the issue, HF sells a cheap tester that plugs in between the wire and the plug.


The fact it sputters at times I'd lean towards either fuel delivery or the engine is out of time. Check the crankshaft key and insure it's good also.


Good luck.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,892 Posts
:welcome: to SBF Arcto10

You mention you've checked spark and that you have it. The engine sputters and then dies after about 3 seconds - - sounds like fuel.

Have you rinsed out the fuel tank ??
Have you tried to blow through the fuel line or pulled it at the carb and see if it runs quickly into a container ?
I'd try the starting fluid idea and be ready to give it a couple quick shots once it fires to see if you can keep it running. If you can by hitting it with little shots of starting fluid you know it's fuel.
If it's fuel, it's likely the carb itself is gummed up but it can also be a deteriorating fuel like (on inside) or even a plugged filter screen in the fuel tank, not all have one. If it has a shut off that's another thing to check out as they can break and be closed even when you think it's open.

.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, I will check some of these suggestions tomorrow. I am not really an engine guy, so this is all relatively new to me.

With regards to the fuel delivery, I know flow is good from the tank to the carb as I drained it via this hose. The carb is new and I did take it apart and it looked VERY clean. I will try the starter fluid idea. Is it worth checking compression as well? I have seen very varied comments on what the correct PSI of a snowblower should be. I have a compression tester for my sled so I can take a reading. Right now I have the pull cord assembly removed as to view the ignition coil so might not be until the weekend that I get a chance to have "a good go" off of it.

Appreciate the replies!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,313 Posts
If you can view the coil then clean the magnets, I'd even remove the coil and clean the contacts at the end of the "U" then reset the gap against the magnets using a piece of cardboard that is the thickness of a match book.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,892 Posts
Is the new carb adjustable ?? Is there a screw at the bottom of it ?? I have a similar engine on my Troy (MTD), the 365-SUB 179cc I know mine isn't but it's so nice if they are.
Seems a little under powered for the 24".

The black and blue wires have continuity with each other WHEN TAKEN OFF THE TERMINATIONS. They also have continuity with the frame of the machine when OFF the terminations. I assume I have an electrical issue, due to a short? Or am I looking at the wrong area?

If you are talking about the plastic key, pull out ignition switch then yes both wires will show continuity to ground. One is direct to ground, frame or engine. The other is grounding through the ignition coils winding's. This is normal. If the coil is grounded you get no spark. When the key is "IN" it separates the two wires and the coil works, spark. If you pull the key out the wires touch and the coil is grounded, no spark. If a wire gets chaffed and the insulation is damaged there is a chance you ground that coil to switch wire and that would give you no spark or an intermittent no spark or sputtering.

.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
someone may have forgotten to install a gasket between the carb and manifold when they replaced the carb. If that is the case it will never run. check to make sure you dont have a vacuum leak.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top