Photo of machine

 

Did you check to see if your belts are slipping from being stretched?

 

If the belts were slipping I wouldn't be able to spin the impeller shaft without spinning the auger.

 

I would surmise, if indeed the sheer pins are in place and working, that indeed you have some gear box issue, which is most likely some form of stripped worm gear, or the shaft splines itself that it mates to, which either way would require a dismantle to get in there and replace the damaged part(s).

I had to do that repair on a Craftsman awhile back.

 

The more parts and part diagrams I look at the more I think it's going to be the key that sheared for the worm gear.. there's no grinding or catching on anything when I soon the impeller shaft in the housing.

 

Pull your shear pins and see if the augers will spin on the shaft, if not you have 2 projects instead of one:devil: The "T" assembly of impeller and auger shaft has to come out, no cheating in there. I would spray the 6 nut/studs at the bucket to trans mount, the 6 at the auger shaft bearing/bushing holders, and the bolt at the impeller pulley and leave it for a night. Looks to be 2000ish? It's most likely just a woodruff key holding the gear to the auger shaft. It's MUCH harder than the gear. I've never seen a gear win that battle, but I have seen the auger shaft itself break in half. Most likely you'll find teeth of the gear worn off smooth given your symptoms. Part is about $20 everywhere. Very easy to do IF you don't have augers rusted to the shaft. Given the excellent condition I hope you don't have to deal with that. To me the hardest things are getting the auger cable hook off the idler arm and getting the nuts off the bucket to trans mount.


Just reading again, the impeller shaft is one piece including the gear cut into it. On a diagram you may see a cross pin, but that locates a thrust collar, it doesn't attach anything geared. We are talking the auger shaft gear is culprit 99% of time.

 

Thanks oneboltshort. I haven't removed the auger assembly on many and have been unsuccessful on more than not. My issue is always removing the impeller shaft from the bearing on the back side of the bucket to be able to pull the auger/impeller assembly out of the bucket..

 

5/16"-24 sacrificial bolt to put in at the impeller end and BFH the shaft will come out:grin: The little coupler on the end is splined (mount behind the pulleys) and can be an issue, but I've had more issues with the keyed smooth pulleys than these splined ones. I have a 2000 MTD in my garage right now I did an impeller bearing and paddle upgrade. It's in terrible shape compared to yours and the coupler pulled right off. See if your augers will spin, that'll indicate if you want to keep going because that is a huge PIA to do sometimes if they are rusted on. Even if you can get one to spin is better than both rusted on.


If the bearing is seized to the impeller shaft, it'll still come all the way out the hole with the assembly. Cut off wheel will make short work of it (if you really think it's bad, expensive part you may want to keep).

 

The pulley adapter is usually a huge pita part for me also. The couple I've do e I've tried using a puller and the adapter breaks before it comes loose..

I'll start digging into it this week and post my findings. Thanks for all the help.

This forum has some of the most helpful members I've been part of. And I've been on a TON of forums...

 

Pull the shear bolts out just to make sure they are in deed not sheared off first.



CRC Freeze Off and emery cloth and a torch work well on the pulley or bearing. Mine had the shaft a bit rusty so I had to emery cloth and file the high spots down and then the bearing came off much easier. Might as well measure the bearing and get a replacement if you're in there.


Heat up the pulley and avoid the shaft and then spray the Freeze Off on the shaft and use a spare bolt or punch and hammer the shaft in. Also would help if you took the side plates off the bucket and any other brace off so the whole guts can move forward before the heating and hammering start.

 

if it's not a shear pin broken, check the brass gear inside of the auger gear housing as it's a known to strip part with many threads in here about it

 

As others have said it's easy work.. parts rusted together will be the only issue.. and you may not even have those issues..either way it has to be done.. hopefully you don't have to destroy anything in the process...the gear itself is not very expensive

 

Well here she is... Wow what a breathe of fresh air working on this newer unit compared to the oldies I've worked on I'm the past! Everything just slipped right off! Please let me know if you would replace the gear as well.

 

you could reuse it from what i see, yet i would replace simply as a insurance policy, because as you found out,it's a lot of work to do one. it's apart play safe and not worry later.

 

as long as the keyway in the brass gear isn't damaged i would try re-using it. at least next time if you have to take it apart you know it should come apart pretty easily.

 

Inspect that gear very well /if any 'teeth' are pushed over at all it will bind up.
Get the key.. mock it back together with two or three bolts in the caseing halves.
Turn the Impeller shaft clockwise with the case pointed away from you/this will be the same rotation direction while in operation.
If you don't feel any binding..then resplit ,grease and reassemble.
Taking the five minutes to do this can save you alot of grief later.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk

 

on reassembly make sure you put the augers back on the correct sides. they don't work very well when backwards. DAH!! done that. school of hard knocks lesson

 

Make sure you use the right grease. Friend of mine rebuilt his and ignored my advice about the grease. Didn't even last the season. His rebuilt was a couple hundred bucks but he did case as well.