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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have been using a 1978 Baycrest snowblower (aka Canadiana by Murray) for the past 7 years. During that time, I have often referred to this forum for various information and also to look at your modified 60 to 80 Arien snowblowers.

Lately I have started shopping for a 70 to 80 Ariens snowblower and found a model such as this one that pleases me because of: drive clutch lever on top of handle (not under), throw-out clutch handle for the auger, flexible chute control rod, etc.
Note: This photo was borrowed from Scott Lawrence’s very useful “Ariens” web site.



I have an appointment to visit the owner of this 7 hp Ariens snowblower tomorrow but one detail puzzles me. When I asked the owner if the lockable differential worked as it should, he replied that he has never used it. I therefore take it for granted that it probable doesn’t work.
After glancing at post #9 here:

Differential

I saw how these should work. Do these ever lock solid because of being welded together by rust?
Any insight would be very appreciated!

Thank you
 

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Hello,

I have been using a 1978 Baycrest snowblower (aka Canadiana by Murray) for the past 7 years. During that time, I have often referred to this forum for various information and also to look at your modified 60 to 80 Arien snowblowers.

Lately I have started shopping for a 70 to 80 Ariens snowblower and found a model such as this one that pleases me because of: drive clutch lever on top of handle (not under), throw-out clutch handle for the auger, flexible chute control rod, etc.
Note: This photo was borrowed from Scott Lawrence’s very useful “Ariens” web site.



I have an appointment to visit the owner of this 7 hp Ariens snowblower tomorrow but one detail puzzles me. When I asked the owner if the lockable differential worked as it should, he replied that he has never used it. I therefore take it for granted that it probable doesn’t work.
After glancing at post #9 here:

Differential

I saw how these should work. Do these ever lock solid because of being welded together by rust?
Any insight would be very appreciated!

Thank you
If it has white handlebars, it doesn't have a differential.
It does if the handlebars are chrome.
 

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I’ve got a white handlebar 78
924026 and it has locking differential


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Were they originally white? Maybe by '78 things had changed.
I have a 1971. I have observed that if you see a Ariens on CL or Marketplace of my vintage with chrome handlebars, there's a differential and if the handlebars are factory white, there is nothing to lock/unlock down there.
After that, I dunno what you do with one that hasn't a differential.
I strongly suggest a search through the community archives where I would bet an answer will be found.
Enter 'ariens differential' and the answers you seek will gush forth!
Sorry for not suggesting this sooner.
 

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I recall on our 10000 (pretty much the exact machine that is in your photo . . .), as received, the paint on the diff lock kept it from engaging, so for years we thought it didn't work until I gave it a whack one day and it engaged . . . I don't recall anything there rusting, and it's bonehead simple, so if it does have one, should be pretty easy to get it working if stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Today I have purchased a 910995 (in nice shape) to build up from and a 924028 (in pretty bad shape) for spare parts.
Both have white handlebars ... AND ... both have the locking differential.
I am therefore quite happy with the result of my shopping. :)
Thanks everyone! Much appreciated!
 

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Congratulations on finding one in good shape.

How about some photos of the machines?

What are your plans for them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Congratulations on finding one in good shape.

How about some photos of the machines?

What are your plans for them?
Thanks!
I paid for them but will be picking them up only in a few weeks. I will certainly post photos at that time.

I intend on upgrading the 910995 with parts I already have (longer chute, Snow Hog tires, heavy weight bar for ontop of the chute, 420cc Honda clone from my current Baycrest snowblower, etc.).

The 924028 is quite rusty and has been neglected. I might change my mind but for the time being, it will be used as an extra parts unit. I'm hoping that the auger parts, and the tractor parts (lower body, axle, drive train, etc.) are interchangeable with the ones on my 910995.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Following are a few pics of my (new to me) 10,000 series Ariens.
Tractor: 910021 (Series 001559)
Sno Thro: 910995 (Series 085151)
Engine: 7HP Model H70-130158A (Note: This tractor should have a 8 HP motor. It's easy to see that someone swapped the engine.)











Tractor: 924026 (Serial # 024388)
Sno Thro: 924028 (Serial #034231)
Engine: 8HP Model SA202-3645 (Serial #3440117967 ... with China written near it...)










Note: After having realized that my 10,000 series has one belt only, I knew that my 420cc engine would not be a good choice for it. I will certainly use a much smaller engine.

Thanks everyone!
:)
 

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Very nice machines, 2 classics!

The 10000 series is in fantastic condition, looks hardly used for it's age. Both should clean up nicely.

Please keep us updated on your projects and we love photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Very nice machines, 2 classics!

The 10000 series is in fantastic condition, looks hardly used for it's age. Both should clean up nicely.

Please keep us updated on your projects and we love photos.
Thanks for the input @Ziggy65
Much appreciated!
The 10000 series is in fantastic condition, looks hardly used for it's age.
That's what I thought also ... however closer examination made me realize that it has been used A LOT! This snowblower was repainted, etc. ... but the mechanical maintenance, etc. was IMHO botched. I've started taking it apart and will be coming back with pics for feedback, suggestions, etc.

In the mean time, I need help in figuring out the age of my 10000 series. The tractor and Sno Thro IDs point to 1973. However the plastic emblem on the auger leads me to think 1974 ... and maybe also the auger control rod which comprises 2 pieces instead of 1.

Thank you! :)
 

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That is a bummer. Yes I can see now that the outer auger bushing assemblies are painted, they should be bare metal.

The #'s indicate a 1973 model, perhaps the plant ran out of Ariens stickers and put on the new 1974 emblem? Without the original engine it will be hard to know for sure.

It really doesn't matter if it is 73 or 74 as the parts are the same for both and the machines are basically identical.
 

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Following are a few pics of my (new to me) 10,000 series Ariens.
Tractor: 910021 (Series 001559)
Sno Thro: 910995 (Series 085151)
Engine: 7HP Model H70-130158A (Note: This tractor should have a 8 HP motor. It's easy to see that someone swapped the engine.)











Tractor: 924026 (Serial # 024388)
Sno Thro: 924028 (Serial #034231)
Engine: 8HP Model SA202-3645 (Serial #3440117967 ... with China written near it...)










Note: After having realized that my 10,000 series has one belt only, I knew that my 420cc engine would not be a good choice for it. I will certainly use a much smaller engine.

Thanks everyone!
:)
Unless the model # is specific to an 8HP, I don't see anything "obvious" other than a changed fuel tank. I used to have that blower with a 7HP on it - it came either way from the factory.
 

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Unless the model # is specific to an 8HP, I don't see anything "obvious" other than a changed fuel tank. I used to have that blower with a 7HP on it - it came either way from the factory.

The model # 910021 indicates it was an 8 HP originally, page 2 of attached manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Closer Examination of my 1973 10,000 Series:
The paint looks great but close examination revealed more than a few examples of “red neck engineering”.
On the right side axle was a pair of hose clips holding a piece of bolt. It seems like they wanted to prevent the axle from moving towards the tractor. However this resulted in a destroyed axle bushing along with its carrier.



The left end of the axle shows a hole … without its correcponding zerk…



The top portion of the tractor shows grinder marks and extra holes for the swapped 7 HP engine.



When moving the snowblower forward or backwards, a loud snapping noise could be heard in the drive/auger pulley area. I quickly realized that the 3 bolts attaching the drive pulley to the drive jaw coupling were loose. These bolts were immediately tightened.

Close examination of both jaw couplings revealed that they are in terrible shape. I therefore proceeded to separate the Sno Thro from the tractor.

The auger gear case seems to be greased because it does not appear to be dry. However no oil dripped out of it when left upside down. When rebuilding the Sno Thro, I will therefore fill the gear case with oil.



I then removed the wheels and axle from the tractor to permit the removal of the drive plate assembly.

On the drive plate assembly, the bearing holder part is damaged and was held in place by the addition of 2 small metal straps. Fortunately the broken aluminum part was still there.



After having dismantled the drive plate assembly, I thought that the aluminum bearing holder could be welded.



This is the result. IMHO the welding shop did a pretty good job.



This bearing holder could now be used… BUT to my dismay, the jaw couplings are in terrible shape. More than 50% of the jaws are gone!







I therefore need to replace these. After more than a week of searching for good jaw couplings, I realized that these 2 parts would cost approximately twice more than the price for a whole used snowblower.

I lucked out, found one in my area with good jaw couplings, and brought it home.

Tractor: 910002, Serial 015779

Sno Thro: 910995, Serial 050612

Engine: Model H60-753436, Serial 1301R









For the time being, it will be an “organ donor” for the rebuilding of my 1973 910021.
 

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@quexpress,

Your doing it right, great job, and that is a great weld on the aluminum.

Your going to enjoy the final product, as you will have a great, reliable solid machine.

Here are a couple pics from a few of my restorations.....

177645
177646
177647
177648
177649
 

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Very happy you found another 10000 series in good condition (1972 ?) for parts, although it may be the better machine to build from?

It's a shame someone ran machine into the ground, replacing the axle bushings would have prevented a lot of grief.

Great detailed photos, you are doing it right, not cutting corners.

I look forward to following your resto mod project, it should be a beast when you are done.
 
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