Snowblower Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2022 Ariens Pro RapidTrak 28" model 926084 that I have used since Christmas Eve but not much snow so about 7 engine hours of which 5.5 are recorded on the Tach/hour meter. I have watched many videos on how RapidTrak works. The Owner Manual for the 926084 is attached as a pdf of a scan of page 12 of the owner manual showing the instructions for adjusting the Track angle. To see the pdf document click on the Epson file attached and it will download to your computer. This is also how my dealer explained RapidTrak operation to me and I tried it and it worked as described.

Paul Sikkema has a video of the RapidTrack track adjustment as the first few minutes of this video:


To see the video copy the link to a new tab in your browser and then Paste and go to see the video.

The Owner manual and my dealer's explanation and Paul's explanation appear to show to me that from wheel mode to Track mode you just squeeze the right lever and release. The track idler wheels drop and the bucket can lift and the steering is easy. To then get to Dig-in mode you just lift up on the handles a very short distance and there is a click and the track is locked down so the bucket can only be lifted a tiny amount and you cannot steer the machine it just goes straight. So those are the 3 modes.

I have been told and saw a video that this description is wrong, and to select Track mode you must release the right trigger from Wheel mode and then lift up a bit on handle bar to lock the track into Track mode. How to get Dig-in mode from this locked Track mode is not clear to me but appears to require an additional lift on the handlebars.

Any help understanding this.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
So how it should work from what I understand is... Squeezing the trigger releases the bogie wheel axel from the notched bar.

So in wheel mode squeeze and release the trigger. The the bogie wheels will drop down. A slight lift of the handlebars will then lock the bogie wheels in track mode. Without lifting the handlebars you can get a sort of float of the bogie wheels that Paul Sikkema mentions. Meaning the bogie wheel axel isn't in any of the locked positions.

From the locked track position, squeeze and release the trigger again and also lift the handlebars up further allowing the rear boogie wheels to drop down more to lock into dig in mode.

Now to go back to wheel mode from dig in, I'm assuming if you squeeze and release and then push down on the handlebars that will first lock into the track mode. The next notch up on the bar. Then squeeze and release again and push down and should be back into wheel mode. Final notch. You also might be able to squeeze and hold the trigger and push down the handlebars past the track notch and then release it and lock it straight into wheel mode. But since I've never actually used this version of the rapid track that's just an assumption.

I hope this helps somewhat at least.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Town

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
So how it should work from what I understand is... Squeezing the trigger releases the bogie wheel axel from the notched bar.

So in wheel mode squeeze and release the trigger. The the bogie wheels will drop down. A slight lift of the handlebars will then lock the bogie wheels in track mode. Without lifting the handlebars you can get a sort of float of the bogie wheels that Paul Sikkema mentions. Meaning the bogie wheel axel isn't in any of the locked positions.

From the locked track position, squeeze and release the trigger again and also lift the handlebars up further allowing the rear boogie wheels to drop down more to lock into dig in mode.

Now to go back to wheel mode from dig in, I'm assuming if you squeeze and release and then push down on the handlebars that will first lock into the track mode. The next notch up on the bar. Then squeeze and release again and push down and should be back into wheel mode. Final notch. You also might be able to squeeze and hold the trigger and push down the handlebars past the track notch and then release it and lock it straight into wheel mode. But since I've never actually used this version of the rapid track that's just an assumption.

I hope this helps somewhat at least.
This is exactly how mine works. One additional note, when releasing from dig-in mode I lift a just a little but since the downpressure are quit high. Anyway I tested the dig-in mode and the traction are really suppering in this mode. I do not understand what I need that mode for.

Dag
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
This is exactly how mine works. One additional note, when releasing from dig-in mode I lift a just a little but since the downpressure are quit high. Anyway I tested the dig-in mode and the traction are really suppering in this mode. I do not understand what I need that mode for.

Dag
i think dig in mode drops the small wheels too far, you end up with all the weight on a really small patch of wheel for traction, which i find doesn't work well. The flat mode has worked best when i need to really dig in. I almost want to make my own bar and put the notches where i want them, i would move the dig in one up a bit it is only slightly more than flat mode, if that makes sense...LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
i think dig in mode drops the small wheels too far, you end up with all the weight on a really small patch of wheel for traction, which i find doesn't work well. The flat mode has worked best when i need to really dig in. I almost want to make my own bar and put the notches where i want them, i would move the dig in one up a bit it is only slightly more than flat mode, if that makes sense...LOL
Totally agree. Trackmode are actually the only "dig-in mode" that works.
My machine are adjusted so I can go to trackmode without locking. This is the best mode for me because it really has great traction but still can float a bit if neccessary. (uneven surfaces) Wheelmode are really good for turning, wheelmode should be called turnmode;)
Dig-in mode should be called spinmode:ROFLMAO:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Why does Ariens have to make it so difficult? Why not just have a autoturn with a track like the wheeled version?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So how it should work from what I understand is... Squeezing the trigger releases the bogie wheel axel from the notched bar.

So in wheel mode squeeze and release the trigger. The the bogie wheels will drop down. A slight lift of the handlebars will then lock the bogie wheels in track mode. Without lifting the handlebars you can get a sort of float of the bogie wheels that Paul Sikkema mentions. Meaning the bogie wheel axel isn't in any of the locked positions.

From the locked track position, squeeze and release the trigger again and also lift the handlebars up further allowing the rear boogie wheels to drop down more to lock into dig in mode.

Now to go back to wheel mode from dig in, I'm assuming if you squeeze and release and then push down on the handlebars that will first lock into the track mode. The next notch up on the bar. Then squeeze and release again and push down and should be back into wheel mode. Final notch. You also might be able to squeeze and hold the trigger and push down the handlebars past the track notch and then release it and lock it straight into wheel mode. But since I've never actually used this version of the rapid track that's just an assumption.

I hope this helps somewhat at least.
Yes that helps a great deal. I can see now that Paul Sikkema's video is wrong in that his dig-in mode is actually locked track mode and is missing dig-in mode altogether; and the Owner Manual is similarly wrong. Your explanation is what I have been experiencing and confused about reconciling with those two sources. The short distance between the 2 notches for locked track mode and dig-in mode confirms your explanation. So the options available for track bogey wheel positioning are:

Locked in wheel mode,
Unlocked in (floating) track mode,
Locked in track mode (allowing just a tiny float),
Locked in Dig-in mode (no float).

I have not yet found a dig-in mode that I can achieve reasonably. Monday we are forecast to get 20 cms (almost 8 inches) of snow, so I will have lots of opportunity to find dig-in mode.

Thanks very much for your explanation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts
Yes that helps a great deal. I can see now that Paul Sikkema's video is wrong in that his dig-in mode is actually locked track mode and is missing dig-in mode altogether; and the Owner Manual is similarly wrong. Your explanation is what I have been experiencing and confused about reconciling with those two sources. The short distance between the 2 notches for locked track mode and dig-in mode confirms your explanation. So the options available for track bogey wheel positioning are:

Locked in wheel mode,
Unlocked in (floating) track mode,
Locked in track mode (allowing just a tiny float),
Locked in Dig-in mode (no float).

I have not yet found a dig-in mode that I can achieve reasonably. Monday we are forecast to get 20 cms (almost 8 inches) of snow, so I will have lots of opportunity to find dig-in mode.

Thanks very much for your explanation.
the only good thing about paul is he blows snow not saw dust
id think most on this site have more skill
he might not be able to change a friction disk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Yes that helps a great deal. I can see now that Paul Sikkema's video is wrong in that his dig-in mode is actually locked track mode and is missing dig-in mode altogether; and the Owner Manual is similarly wrong. Your explanation is what I have been experiencing and confused about reconciling with those two sources. The short distance between the 2 notches for locked track mode and dig-in mode confirms your explanation. So the options available for track bogey wheel positioning are:

Locked in wheel mode,
Unlocked in (floating) track mode,
Locked in track mode (allowing just a tiny float),
Locked in Dig-in mode (no float).

I have not yet found a dig-in mode that I can achieve reasonably. Monday we are forecast to get 20 cms (almost 8 inches) of snow, so I will have lots of opportunity to find dig-in mode.

Thanks very much for your explanation.
There was a later video Paul did where he admitted that he had been using the RapidTrak wrong lol. If I remember correctly I believe he thought the float mode was the actual track mode. It wasn't actually locked into track mode.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Town

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Because it turns much easier in wheel mode. If they used regular tracks they would have to use triggers in some form.

Dag
Then wouldn`t triggers be easier instead of lifting up or down on the bars? Plus there is a lever on the right side already.
Seems like Ariens just makes the rapidtrac more complicated than it needs to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There was a later video Paul did where he admitted that he had been using the RapidTrak wrong lol. If I remember correctly I believe he thought the float mode was the actual track mode. It wasn't actually locked into track mode.
Oh, that is good to know, thanks, I did not see that video where he makes the correction.

I looked at the process of positioning the idler wheels on my machine this afternoon. I can now achieve Dig-in mode on a regular basis, but it is awkward for an old guy. So from Wheel mode pulling up on the right lever drops the idler wheels and track about level with the ground there is lots of float for the bucket. Lifting ever so slightly with the handles engages the notch and you are in locked track mode that allows slight upward movement of the bucket. Pulling up the right lever and keeping it there while lifting up significantly on the handles the track drops down and you then release the right lever and the track locks into Dig-in mode. Releasing the right lever allows the tracks to crash to the ground in Track float mode.

The slot in the adjusting bar (with the 3 notches) is not visible in Wheel mode, and shows 2 inches of slot in locked Track mode and 3 inches in locked Dig-in mode. The adjustment of the cable for the right lever seems unimportant to the idler wheel settings, but does affect the feel of the lever with the amount of slack. Another day when it is not so cold I will try more adjustments on that cable to improve the feel while keeping the slack correct.

Thank you for helping me put the pieces together (as others have done) so I have a fully working system that I understand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Oh, that is good to know, thanks, I did not see that video where he makes the correction.

I looked at the process of positioning the idler wheels on my machine this afternoon. I can now achieve Dig-in mode on a regular basis, but it is awkward for an old guy. So from Wheel mode pulling up on the right lever drops the idler wheels and track about level with the ground there is lots of float for the bucket. Lifting ever so slightly with the handles engages the notch and you are in locked track mode that allows slight upward movement of the bucket. Pulling up the right lever and keeping it there while lifting up significantly on the handles the track drops down and you then release the right lever and the track locks into Dig-in mode. Releasing the right lever allows the tracks to crash to the ground in Track float mode.

The slot in the adjusting bar (with the 3 notches) is not visible in Wheel mode, and shows 2 inches of slot in locked Track mode and 3 inches in locked Dig-in mode. The adjustment of the cable for the right lever seems unimportant to the idler wheel settings, but does affect the feel of the lever with the amount of slack. Another day when it is not so cold I will try more adjustments on that cable to improve the feel while keeping the slack correct.

Thank you for helping me put the pieces together (as others have done) so I have a fully working system that I understand.
No problem my friend. We're all on the same team here. 👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Then wouldn`t triggers be easier instead of lifting up or down on the bars? Plus there is a lever on the right side already.
Seems like Ariens just makes the rapidtrac more complicated than it needs to be.
It's not complicated it is so simple to use. It operates as easy as a wheeled machine with much more traction. The problem is that the writers from Ariens manuals and the makers of videos do not understand the system and miss-communicate the operational information for new users. Many members on this site who have the system know how it works, and can explain how it works correctly. I am sure that once I get using the system based upon the expert tuition that I have received it will get much easier for me.

The Auto-Turn system works perfectly on the Pro models in particular since they use the heavy duty differential and the cast iron skid shoes. Adding tracks does not take away from the faultless operation of Auto-Turn. I have used triggers on snowblowers and their operation leaves a lot to be desired compared to the ease of Auto-Turn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Then wouldn`t triggers be easier instead of lifting up or down on the bars? Plus there is a lever on the right side already.
Seems like Ariens just makes the rapidtrac more complicated than it needs to be.
You miss the point. Triggers can and will fail, this is the reason for autoturn. The handle you refer to is also on the Yamaha snowblowers and is used the same way to make the blower turn easier. (it also gives you a floating mode to use where the belts still have full contact) But the Ariens turns MUCH easier than Yamaha (just sold a 1028) because of the Autoturn function. Autoturn works well both in float mode and wheel mode. I have trigger on my Simplicity wheeled PRO machine and it is nice but sometimes the cable freeze up and then it is hard to turn, real hard.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top