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Discussion Starter #1
On my older 1032 J.D. walk behind blower, the differential has no obvious way of lubrication. On other similar models I've seen a grease zerk installed. Does anyone know how the differential is lubricated? Also, do you think it feasible to drill a hole in the exact location as the ones I saw on other J.D. units and ilnsert a zerk for greasing the gears inside? Let me know what you think. thanks.
 

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Your JD must not be made by John Deere as those 1032 use 5w20 in the gearbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought that may be the case. In the video he was working on a smaller machine... and maybe a few years difference. Hard to say. I'll have to do that... I've done one similar to this years ago... it sure beats running the chance of wearing out the gears from neglect. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Vermont007...... that appears to be the impeller/auger gear box. I'm talking the differential gear box in the back by the friction disc, chains, etc.
 

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I think I get it. It's like an older car diff, Only gets action when turning the blower, so it mostly goes straight ahead, and very little turning "action", so it does not require much lube, the gears in the picture don't show any wear. Is that the story?
Sid
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Actually, frequently the story is the axles lock together and the diff does nothing. When people take them apart they discover no lube and a block of rusted spider gears to 3 pieces of axle assembly inside the case. Fitting a zerk allows you grease it up until it comes out the ends so you know there's some in there without removing the whole assembly which is a PITA.
The ends of parts D and F along with the middle of part H are all inside the case halves.
jtclays.. you're right on with that. Any moving part needs some kind of lube. That gear box is in a location where it gets a lot of abuse, wear and tear. I'm going to pull that apart and check it out. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I drilled a hole using a #3 drill bit... tapped it with a 1/4 X 28 tap and put a zerk in... and pumped some grease in. I'm not sure what's inside... but adding grease can't hurt. I pumped in a lot and no grease has yet to seep out around the axles. Now I noticed the axles don't want to turn independently without apply some force to the wheels. I checked the wing nut and components and they seem in decent shape.
I attempted to remove the pins that hold the axles in.. the right one is moving but the left one, closest to the differential appears to be a solid pin. I tried quite a while to pound it out with a punch but it won't budge. I'm soaking it with P.B. Blaster but so far no luck getting it to move. I bent a new punch on it already to. I don't have anything but a propane torch but it's pretty close to the differential so I'm not sure if heat is a good idea either.
Anyone have suggestions on how to get that pin out? Thanks.
 

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Without opening the case you have no idea what's going on inside. The wing nut on the left axle may work and spin nice but if your internals look like this, greasing isn't going to help. If the pin is not coming out, I'd guess you have more rust than anticipated. Rust inside the "tube" and right side axle will be a very intense few hours the rest of the family should not be around for, in my experience:grin: You may need to drill out the pin, or at least get it low enough to the shaft that a drift can knock it out. Some models had a bolt through there, so drilling slightly bigger is an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm with you jtclays... Thankfully I was alone in the barn at the time. I whacked on that pin or bolt shank... what ever it is... for some time and it hasn't budged. I may see if I can get at least some MAP gas for my propane torch and try that... I did grease the differential but I may just remove the casing while still on the machine to see what condition the gears are in. I'd hate to see a handful of metal dust come out.
The far right ROLL pin is coming out so I'm good there... it's just the one left side pin/bolt shank I'm having trouble with. Drilling it out is iffy... those axles don't look that H.D. and drilling it out may weaken that area of the tubular axles. I'm sure I can get them welded up if that does happen. It doesn't help when you discover that there were never any zerks installed on the axles in the first place. NO lube in the differential... NO lube fittings on the axles...and NO lube fittings on the auger shafts.... What was J.D. thinking?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've been heating it up with MAP gas but no luck. I even got out the air hammer with a pin point... still no movement. I may have to seek professional help on this one. I don't want to damage the shafts and make the situation worse than what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, I finally bit the bullet and brought it in to a local small engine shop. They charge $58.00 an hour for labor.. not bad I figure considering other shops wanted up to $100.00 an hour. He said it won't take more than an hour. 1.5 days l later, they call and said it's ready and it'll be $38.00. They told me it didn't take long so a reduced rate. Wow...that's good service. I pick it up Friday and we'll see if I can get the axles separated and then if I do... I'll open up the differential and see what I can see. Hopefully it'll be good news.
 
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