Snowblower Forum banner

21 - 40 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
228 Posts
You can see a ring mark thru scratches. I wonder if rings rusted to cylinder wall at some time and when broke free scratched cylinder


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
If it runs good, don't worry about the scratches. Yes, Carbon can cause that but you usually don't see that in four strokes. In chain saws, it's very common.

I do agree that the dark ring at the bottom of the cylinder is probably from corrosion from sitting in the past. Again, if the engine runs, it is not an issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rooskie

·
Registered
1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Even though this motor started after two or three pulls, didn’t smoke, and ran decent with auger engaged, it probably would of started to hiccup soon, as the valve clearances were intake .013 exhaust .015. This is why I normally service top ends on ever used piece of equipment I get , it may run but it will run much better with proper clearances, fresh rebuilt carb, new breather filter, new oil. Now I’m thinking of checking the points. I’m sure that hasn’t been done ever. It’s obvious this motor wasn’t taken care of properly. While the outside looked good for 50+ the internal maintenance was lacking. I’m afraid to look at her belly. But that will be next. I’m sure it will need a lube job, and a few adjustments, I know the clutch handle is super sloppy but works. The gear oil will get fresh too. We normally only get two storms a year that produce enough to blow in Southwest PA, so I know once I get it fully serviced she will last my lifetime.
 

·
Registered
Ariens Platinum SHO 24"
Joined
·
187 Posts
Even though this motor started after two or three pulls, didn’t smoke, and ran decent with auger engaged, it probably would of started to hiccup soon, as the valve clearances were intake .013 exhaust .015. This is why I normally service top ends on ever used piece of equipment I get , it may run but it will run much better with proper clearances, fresh rebuilt carb, new breather filter, new oil. Now I’m thinking of checking the points. I’m sure that hasn’t been done ever. It’s obvious this motor wasn’t taken care of properly. While the outside looked good for 50+ the internal maintenance was lacking. I’m afraid to look at her belly. But that will be next. I’m sure it will need a lube job, and a few adjustments, I know the clutch handle is super sloppy but works. The gear oil will get fresh too. We normally only get two storms a year that produce enough to blow in Southwest PA, so I know once I get it fully serviced she will last my lifetime.
You have to admit though, for a 50 year old engine, that wasn't bad. I hope my internals are doing that good.
 

·
Registered
1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Oh these motors are air cooled workhorses for sure!
Pics of valves-I have the valves soaking in seafoam tonight then I’ll lap and check clearance
173278
173279
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,884 Posts
I don’t think it’s carbon. When I cleaned the head, there was scrape marks on it as if someone scraped it clean so I’m not sure someone else was in here. I also cleaned a few casting blemishes up with my dremel between where it slopes towards the plug it was pretty rough there but now smooth transition. There is some pitting but I don’t believe that will hurt. I think I will check the valves clearance and lap them since I’m this far.
View attachment 173233
It's a good time to dress that head if you haven't already. (y)
 

·
Registered
1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Valves lapped clearances at .010. Surfaces cleaned up and ready for assembly. Now if only my parts show up.
So I decided while waiting for parts to arrive, I’d check out the belly. Looks all greased up good. I’m gonna attempt to adjust the clutch, it’s very sloppy, there is wear marks on the top of the frame where the rod protrudes, friction wheel has some wear and cracks but no chunks missing. The axle has play I’m not sure how much is too much? It’s about 2mm of wiggle.
 

·
Registered
1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
So when I tipped it on its side, I heard a click sound and now the left clutch is frozen, I can’t shift into any gear it’s stuck in reverse? And suggestions?

I was able to move the friction disk once I disconnected the linkage but it is not smooth, so I’ll have to clean and lube the hex shaft . But the clutch is not working at all it’s very loose. And the piece that is on the handle you squeeze is stuck in the squeezed position. I disconnected the linkage and tried to move it by hand but it only move up and doesn’t do anything. I made a video of what the issue is. My question once I get the shaft lubed and shifting smooth will that fix the clutch issue?

 

·
Registered
1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
I have to be missing something obvious. This thing will not shift and the clutch stays fully compressed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Kinda hard to explain in a text, but you'll see it when you get in there. You will become familiar with throw out lever, neutral catch and ball joint if you keep this one. They have a lot of moving parts that count on the next one being able to move for the first one to work. The rod tucked way up in the top has a cotter pin and slid partially out will ease up some binding to see what you have going on.

Stuck Clutch, can't shift 1968 10M6d

173365
 

·
Registered
1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Kinda hard to explain in a text, but you'll see it when you get in there. You will become familiar with throw out lever, neutral catch and ball joint if you keep this one. They have a lot of moving parts that count on the next one being able to move for the first one to work. The rod tucked way up in the top has a cotter pin and slid partially out will ease up some binding to see what you have going on.

Stuck Clutch, can't shift 1968 10M6d

View attachment 173365
So I am able to physically move the friction wheel up and down with a breaker bar when I have the shift linkage removed but it is not smooth operation. But the clutch will not operate at all. It’s weird it work fine before I flipped this thing on it’s side. I actually did find that post and read through it and Im thinking I need to remove the friction wheel assembly to completely clean and check that bearing and re grease everything. I prefer not to as it does look like a time consuming job, but maybe that is is my only option. I will replace the friction wheel if I do that! I will try what you suggest and get back. Thank you! Oh I plan to keep this for sure! I
 

·
Registered
1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Finally had a chance to check out the drive system, first I pulled that rod back that (oneboltshort) said and the friction disk just fell off the threaded pulley shaft?? So I cleaned the disk and the wheel off-threaded the disk back on which wasn’t easy- this solved the problem. I also cleaned and lubed everything in there- Shifting is like butter now so smooth and easy, clutch works perfectly. I imagine I will have to perform the adjustment friction wheel adjustment. This machine also didn’t have a belly plate so I made one from 16g steel.
173516
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,635 Posts
I believe that inspection pan slides in side channels, and bolts onto the frame, at least on the older models. Then clean, prime and paint the belly pan and throw on some XTrac tires, youll be in good shape.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
228 Posts
On eBay search ariens bottom cover.
You might find one
Some one on here might be able to steer you to correct cover


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
I believe that inspection pan slides in side channels, and bolts onto the frame, at least on the older models. Then clean, prime and paint the belly pan and throw on some XTrac tires, youll be in good shape.
I wondered if that is how it was supposed to go I was concerned as that one gear is real close to it. Paint!! Oh I am not a skilled painter. I will probably just Bed liner coat it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,635 Posts
Ziggy is correct, the gear sits in a sump stamped into the pan. You could always make a cut out, then just make a sump and seal rivet it on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
631 Posts
You have a small fortune in all those old Players cigarette tins. Those go from $8 - $25 a pop.
Many years ago when I was in grade school, they were going to tear down the old 3 story school, which was about 100 years old. The 3rd floor had only been used for storage for many years. The teacher asked for volunteers to help clean out the 3rd floor. I found a box full of these old tins. I guess they had used them for storing kids crayons in, as some still had bits of crayons in them.
Majority were Players, but I have Turret and Black Cat ones as well.

I also found a box of comics and baseball and hockey cards, that I guess had been confiscated from students over the years. However I was not allowed to keep them, as they went to the annual school rummage sale.

It was a different time back then:)
 
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
Top