You can see a ring mark thru scratches. I wonder if rings rusted to cylinder wall at some time and when broke free scratched cylinder
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You have to admit though, for a 50 year old engine, that wasn't bad. I hope my internals are doing that good.Even though this motor started after two or three pulls, didn’t smoke, and ran decent with auger engaged, it probably would of started to hiccup soon, as the valve clearances were intake .013 exhaust .015. This is why I normally service top ends on ever used piece of equipment I get , it may run but it will run much better with proper clearances, fresh rebuilt carb, new breather filter, new oil. Now I’m thinking of checking the points. I’m sure that hasn’t been done ever. It’s obvious this motor wasn’t taken care of properly. While the outside looked good for 50+ the internal maintenance was lacking. I’m afraid to look at her belly. But that will be next. I’m sure it will need a lube job, and a few adjustments, I know the clutch handle is super sloppy but works. The gear oil will get fresh too. We normally only get two storms a year that produce enough to blow in Southwest PA, so I know once I get it fully serviced she will last my lifetime.
It's a good time to dress that head if you haven't already.I don’t think it’s carbon. When I cleaned the head, there was scrape marks on it as if someone scraped it clean so I’m not sure someone else was in here. I also cleaned a few casting blemishes up with my dremel between where it slopes towards the plug it was pretty rough there but now smooth transition. There is some pitting but I don’t believe that will hurt. I think I will check the valves clearance and lap them since I’m this far.
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So I am able to physically move the friction wheel up and down with a breaker bar when I have the shift linkage removed but it is not smooth operation. But the clutch will not operate at all. It’s weird it work fine before I flipped this thing on it’s side. I actually did find that post and read through it and Im thinking I need to remove the friction wheel assembly to completely clean and check that bearing and re grease everything. I prefer not to as it does look like a time consuming job, but maybe that is is my only option. I will replace the friction wheel if I do that! I will try what you suggest and get back. Thank you! Oh I plan to keep this for sure! IKinda hard to explain in a text, but you'll see it when you get in there. You will become familiar with throw out lever, neutral catch and ball joint if you keep this one. They have a lot of moving parts that count on the next one being able to move for the first one to work. The rod tucked way up in the top has a cotter pin and slid partially out will ease up some binding to see what you have going on.
Stuck Clutch, can't shift 1968 10M6d
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I wondered if that is how it was supposed to go I was concerned as that one gear is real close to it. Paint!! Oh I am not a skilled painter. I will probably just Bed liner coat it.I believe that inspection pan slides in side channels, and bolts onto the frame, at least on the older models. Then clean, prime and paint the belly pan and throw on some XTrac tires, youll be in good shape.
Many years ago when I was in grade school, they were going to tear down the old 3 story school, which was about 100 years old. The 3rd floor had only been used for storage for many years. The teacher asked for volunteers to help clean out the 3rd floor. I found a box full of these old tins. I guess they had used them for storing kids crayons in, as some still had bits of crayons in them.You have a small fortune in all those old Players cigarette tins. Those go from $8 - $25 a pop.