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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, again, but perhaps in better overall condition. somewhat local to me, paid $25. original engine in working condition. has the electric starter (but missing the power cord). got it home, fired it up, did quick run around the driveway. worked pretty good. augers are more "noisy" than my '05 Ariens.

looks like original tires/rims (fancy ariens hub caps!). PO, who owned it for about 4 years, did the belts, and found the carb bowl gunked up, which he cleaned up. seems to run pretty well. he did mention that the tractor wheel set-up includes a "positronic" hub arrangement. kind of old school auto-turn. he provided me with a part and a broken spring that needs to be replaced, because without it it is single wheel drive. perhaps someone with this knowledge can fill me in.

looking forward to opening it up a little and cleaning it. comments welcome.
 

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Another good score! Looks to be in good shape for it's age. Great that it runs and functions, differential repair should be straight forward.

1965 6HP, with the differential. Based on tractor name plate.

Will probably need axle and auger bushings, and impeller bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
my thinking is this is a 63-64 first series. round chute, side extensions, single clutch handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so, according to scot's website, i may have a unicorn 1964 10000 series with series one features!!!!!!!!?

Also, if it were true that there were 1964 10,000 series machines, they would need to be "hybrid" machines, containing a 10,000 tractor unit, but with an older style scoop and a rounded chute..for awhile I assumed these machine must exist..somewhere..but there has been zero evidence of any such machines..No photos..and also no Ariens manuals or diagrams showing such a machine! the ONLY evidence for "1964 10,000 series" is that 10000.pdf manual.
 

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This is the Ratcheting Hub Assembly
 

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What is the Tecumseh serial # on the engine nameplate or stamped on the fan shroud?

If it has the original engine, that will tell you what year the machine is for sure.
 

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Thanks for that. I have a few of those pieces. The spring is broken. I will look at the good wheel hub. What is the purpose and advantage of his system?
Purpose is for Differential type Turning. Friction Springs are Hard to Find and Expensive.
 

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Engine should have been built October 16, 1964 (4290) based on attached information. Some time later the engine would have been installed by Ariens on the machine. IMHO this is a 1965 model, as per Ariens 10000 series manual. Whether a 64 or 65, it doesn't really matter.



Dating a Tecumseh motor: On the side of the blower housing is a two rivet tag with the model/spec/serial number. This style and location of numbers was done on pre-1973 motors. This motor is an H35 spec# 452716, made on the 118th day of 1970.

snowblow134.jpg



 

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Discussion Starter #12
spent part of the day going over it. did an exterior dirt/grease cleaning. put penetrating oil on many bolts. the caper nuts are worn badly (as is typical). hope they will either turn or break off, hate to cut them off. the belt is shot (i think i can use the belt from the other 10M. the plug was black and gunky. ordered several champion plugs. picked up a 5 qt of synthetic 5/30 oil. gonna do changes in each engine. haven't checked the augers yet. and these ratchet wheels are a something to investigate. might swap the drive axle from the other 10M which just has locking differential button (don't see how that works actually). will probably swap over from first 10M anything superior. if this new one is the better, it might be a candidate for the predator swap. nice thing about one drive clutch is only one belt!
 

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For 25 bucks that’s a score! The body and paint look really good for its age it was definitely stored inside and even the decals have survived. It’s running so you can go through it and address anything that needs attention. Nice original Ariens for sure it deserves a second lease on life.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yeah, this may be the "one"! the ratchet hub thing is an issue. gonna do more deep cleaning/investigating tomorrow.

if i can work out the hub thing, and the augers aren't seized, it nay be a candidate for a predator install. too bad they don't make them in all white!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
well, after a couple of days of solid work, here is how it looks. opened the belly pan, things looked pretty good. everything looks freshly greased. gave all the orange a good cleaning. then separated the attachment and cleaned it and removed the worn scraper bar. over time the bucket edge has been impacted by some wear. typical separation on the corners.

swapped in some nicer handlebars. needs a new belt badly (anyone know the part number?).

next i have to see about the augers, ratchet wheels, and fuel system.overall i'd give the body and transmission an A-.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
haven't decided yet, but i think it might make most sense to remove the ratchet set-up and install the differential set-up into this blower. the rims and tires on the other blower are in nicer condition (snow tires, not garden tires). no one has told me why i should keep the ratchet set-up. and, based on ebay prices, some of the ratchet parts are selling for nice $ due to there being obsolete. could be win/win.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
haven't decided yet, but i think it might make most sense to remove the ratchet set-up and install the differential set-up into this blower. the rims and tires on the other blower are in nicer condition (snow tires, not garden tires). no one has told me why i should keep the ratchet set-up. and, based on ebay prices, some of the ratchet parts are selling for nice $ due to there being obsolete. could be win/win.
flip flopping on this one. gonna try a friction spring search instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
did a lot of work on it today (see my ratchet wheel thread). also gave it an oil change, removed the engine and cleaned the deck. worked on the other 10M drive axle (see other thread). removed the auger shear pins. thankfully they were not seized. unfortunately, both augers are seized. that's disappointing but not unexpected. ariens really screwed up by not putting grease fittings on the augers. no way to seasonally lube them. now i have to pull the whole thing out and choose a way to unseize them. gonna work on the first 10M as an example before doing it this better one. any great tips welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
big question: how many years was the ratchet kit offered? wondering if it was available through the 10k series?
 
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