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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

So I bought a new bearing for the left side of an ariens st824, the side with the differential. I tried removing the pin with a hammer and punch out. But I think, not sure, if the pin pin is grooved or tapered, and I think I knocked it the wrong way. Now I cannot get the pin to go out the other way, and the end looks mashed like I expanded the end of the pin and now it will not move. This is for the pin that goes through the black differential hub.

Are these pins tapered or grooved? How can I fix this (angle grinder)?
 

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jenks, I've fumbled through getting a few of these out and I've never seen a tapered pin. They are correctly supposed to be roll pins that have a slight seam. Problem can be if PO installed it with great authority and marred one end. Then you want to knock it the opposite way. Some were actually bolts that the head and nut fell off and there's a true solid piece stuck in there. If it's a true roll pin in there, it will have a slight hollow in the middle (if not mangled by the previous owner). I've had good luck trying PB Blaster every couple hours to degrade the grease and debris that may have set up inside the hollow. Once I could get a wire through it they usually will knock out because now the pin can compress a bit with the slit. As Ray said, drilling may be required. If it's a real friction/roll pin, be advised they are hardened steel. Drill with a bit of oil and slow with clearing shavings. They can be a bugger to get to with a full size drill. I sometimes use a little 1/4" hex b&d screwdriver with small bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So should I try to keep going in the direction that got the pin out a little? Is the hole that holds the pin not tapered? Basically, can you knock these pins out by hitting them on either side?

Or should I just jump right to drilling it?
 

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It's not a tapered hole so you should be able to knock it out in either direction unless it's so mashed on one side it not going to come out that way as jt mentioned. I would try to knock it out a little more like jt said. If no go, drill it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's not a tapered hole so you should be able to knock it out in either direction unless it's so mashed on one side it not going to come out that way as jt mentioned. I wild try to knock it out a little more like jt said. If no go, drill it.
Thank you, do I need to pull the knob out for the differential first? Not pull it off put in the out position? Or does this matter when taking out that pin?
 

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STOP! It is a tapered pin. I just changed the bearings on my ST824.

From the service manual: Remove groove pin that secures lockout assembly from left hand axle and lockout assembly from shaft. (Pin is tapered and must be driven from the small end.)

The roll pins are not tapered but this pin is.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
STOP! It is a tapered pin. I just changed the bearings on my ST824.

From the service manual: Remove groove pin that secures lockout assembly from left hand axle and lockout assembly from shaft. (Pin is tapered and must be driven from the small end.)

The roll pins are not tapered but this pin is.
Got it, so I am either going to use an angle grinder to smooth out the mashed end and then hit it out, or just drill out the hole pin, one bit size at a time.

Is it just me or was it hard to tell which side is the smaller tapered hole side?
 

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I got lucky with mine. You can't tell it is tapered until after you get it out. Once you break it free it will come right out.

Once you get it out you will find the small hub has 2 bronze bushings in it where it slides over the long axle. Those might be worn as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So the angle grinder was a dumb idea, I thought maybe it would remove the part of the pin that was sticking out the wrong end and was mashed, but it did not really help, now I just have a marred pin end and worn down.

I will try drilling small to larger holes through the hole pin, this is a huge pain, and all because I could not tell which side was tapered.
 

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Just support the hub on something and get a good drift pin and hammer and bang on it. I am betting it will straighten out and come right out.
 

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I've become rather adept at getting roll pins out. I use the end of 1 1/2 x 10" hardened steel bar to rain straight blows on the punch like a pile driver. This works really well for getting out impeller pins. The proper size pin punch is paramount, it must be high grade hardened steel, and I deburr the business end on the bench grinder at the slightest hint of mushrooming. I like the idea the Ariens uses overlength pins on the newer models, you can clamp a vice grip on one end and that also helps. I recommend these longer pins if you are replacing pins on an older model.
Nothing on a Snow blower could be as hard as removing a German clutch slave roll pin, I don't think they've heard of salted roads in Germany.
 

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To clarify the "groove" pin that he's trying to remove, it's tapered and solid. It is not a roll pin.

Drive it from the small end. I had to apply some heat to get mine to break free.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To clarify the "groove" pin that he's trying to remove, it's tapered and solid. It is not a roll pin.

Drive it from the small end. I had to apply some heat to get mine to break free.
This might be asking alot, but could you post a picture of the smaller side? I just want to be 100% sure if possible because I already have screwed this up once.
 

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On mine only one end, the wider end, sticks out of the hub. The smaller end is recessed about 1/8" - the hole in the hub is drilled through.

You won't seem much in a picture. It's all assembled now.
 

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A pin is a pin, it's all the same process for removal. you should always clean the ends first, and I use a little 1" plastic key-chain magnifying glass to inspect both ends first. If you're unsure about taper, check with a caliper. Whenever you have one end sticking out further (or in this case wider and solid) it's a safe bet to start from the opposite end.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK, got the left axle groove pin OUT. I called Ariens, they said that you have to find the side of the pin with a V shape space cut out of it, that is the wider end, you have to hit the opposite side. The bearing is replaced and there is only a little play to the axle, which I guess is common.

Other odd thing happened, the impeller turned and so did the metal pipe connecting the impeller to the gear case, but the augers would not turn.

Then I roll it back in the garage, try again and the augers turn just fine after re-starting the snowblower, weird right? Perhaps something slipped back into place?
 
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