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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I have been trying to clean my older Toro CCR3650 single stage snowblower carb. While taking the carb apart, I removed the float and inlet needle. I try to snap photos of everything I though before I remove them to be sure they go back the same way, but I forgot sadly.

There is a little thin metal piece that seems to be associated with the needle, but I can't figure out how to properly re-install. I tried putting the carb back together, but the engine was running at super high RPMs and wouldn't turn down. I'm guessing it was due to the float being installed wrong. It did not do this before I cleaned it. To my understanding, these older plastic carbs have no idle/mix adjustment screws.

My question is where do I put the 'U shaped' pin attached to the inlet needle? Does it attach a specific way to the larger float piece?

I have tried to watch Youtube videos and such, but can't find any close-up photos of this float and metal pin during the install to know how it goes back. if anyone can help, I'd truly appreciate it! Thanks in advance.

Chris



 

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do you have a plastic carb or a metal carb
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My machine was built in 2001. It has the plastic carb. Part #98-7003.

If the float is set high and not level with the carb body, would that make the engine run too rich or the other way?

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I put it back together and started it. It runs a little better after a thorough carb clean, but not perfect. The engine still seems like it's a little on the weak side. Fortunately it is not surging anymore uncontrollably. I am wondering if a slight adjustment to the float may help with power. I would need to know if I would lower or raise the float to achieve this.

One other strange thing is it does not throw the snow very far even though I just replaced the paddles and scraper bar a few weeks ago. I thought that would do the trick. I have not checked the belt yet. Can anyone think of any other causes that would make the blower not throw snow far? I had a Toro Powerlite E before and it threw the snow 9-10 feet after I put new paddles and scraper bar on. I was hoping this would help me with this one, but it didn't. It still needed to be done though so it's OK.
 

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cmp, Those 3605's are great machines and I still haven't found one to call my own:rolleyes: I have however worked on several neighbors and through this site and others got some tips:D
The carb body to engine mounting nuts should NOT be over torqued. It funks the plastic of the carb body. I'm going on memory, but that carb has the plastic emulsion tube (with small o-rings) and is not worth cleaning. Buy new, it's like $2. Presses out from the carb venturi down with a simple screwdriver blade. There is also a hidden idle screw/jet under a sticker mounted around the edges of the plastic carb body. The sticker will have the appearance of a label for ID. Pull it back and find that little brass screw sitting behind it. Take it out. Run a wire through the tip and sides with some carb cleaner and likely she'll run strong again. Down side is, that plastic carb. If ever mistreated might need to be replaced with ANY of the new metal body ones you can find on Amazon or parts shops. My experience has been finding the sticker hidden idle circuit screw fixes nearly all of them (without setting the carb nuts to 300 lbs of torque:eek:).

I looked back and retake my statement about plastic emulsion tubes. I've been working on lawnmowers for a couple weeks and got spring fever. Still make sure you found the "side" jet under the sticker. Check your mix (fresh) and fuel line.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
jtclays, thanks for the advice. After watching a Youtube video, I did take out and clean the hidden idle screw. :) That is what I am guessing helped some.

If anyone could answer one more question about belt tension, I'd appreciate it. How do you determine proper belt tension? For example, if I pull back on the clutch to engage the paddles, how much 'give' should the belt have against the pulley discs? Should it be relatively tight or a little give? It seemed like the belt wasn't very tight even at full engagement.

I pulled up the rubber cover on the pulley spring and saw there were multiple holes in it along the bar. I tried moving the hook up 1-2 more holes to tighten the belt. Does this sound like the correct approach? Originally the hook was in the bottom hole of the bar. Are these adjustments necessary over time as the machine gets older and the belt is used more?

The belt itself seemed to be in good shape with no major tears. I have no idea if the belt has ever been changed on the snowblower as I got it second hand.

I'm hoping the extra tension may help the snow get thrown better.

Chris
 

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ditch the plastic carb. bite the bullet and get a metal carb if you want it to run like new
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah that looks like a $100 investment, but I'm sure it would help. I'm trying to see what I can get out of this with the current parts now, but I'll definitely keep that in mind. Any thoughts on the belt adjustment question above?
 

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if you pull the lever there should be no play in the belt also the belt shouldn't tear it should stretch so it may need replacing. I've never adjusted the cable or the linkage the one on my 2450E has never been adjusted that way. last year I finally changed the belt, seeing that I bought the 2450E new in 2000 I thought it was time even though it wasn't slipping
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, I think I made the right adjustment then to the linkage cable given your feedback. We'll see how it runs. Thanks again everyone for the help. I truly appreciate it. it's nice to learn new stuff and try to accomplish things on your own when possible!
 
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