Snowblower Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here's what I got. 2009 Toro 10/28.Problem is after 7/8 minutes of running great it just up and dies. No problem starting right back up. Then she'l run another couple minutes and die. I have changed the fuel cap twice, the fuel line from tank to carb. Changed out primer bulb and hose. Changed out carb. ANYBODY have any thoughts on what i am missing.Thanks for taking the time to read/respond to this post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
871 Posts

·
Account closed by member request.
Joined
·
9,612 Posts
Here's what I got. 2009 Toro 10/28.Problem is after 7/8 minutes of running great it just up and dies. No problem starting right back up. Then she'l run another couple minutes and die. I have changed the fuel cap twice, the fuel line from tank to carb. Changed out primer bulb and hose. Changed out carb. ANYBODY have any thoughts on what i am missing.Thanks for taking the time to read/respond to this post.
What brand of engine is it???????????????????
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,892 Posts
:welcome: to SBF powerstroke

You should also check the tank to see if there is anything in there that might be moving around and plugging the hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,440 Posts
OR a bad gas cap,..... Classic symptom. And only part of fuel system not checked yet??
op changed the cap twice, but no mention of trying to run it with the cap loose. i would try the loose cap first, then start thinking about an issue with the coil .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,809 Posts
sounds like something gets hot and then dies? then it starts OK right away? my first thought was the cap but you changed that twice. now try it loose like you said.

when it dies, i would shut off gas and remove bowl or loosen the drain to see if it is dry of gas. that would point to a clog somewhere?

does it surge or hunt before it dies? or does it just shut down like you are turning key off? if so I would disconnect ground on starter switch and then start and see if it keeps running. is so then maybe switch?

is the oil level ok? does it have a low oil sensor that is malfunctioning?

if nothing else works, i would threaten it with a gas can and a match.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,835 Posts
Welcome to the forum! Weird symptoms, and good suggestions so far. Changing the gas cap, and carb, ought to eliminate a lot of the "usual suspects". When it dies, do you just wait a few seconds, pull the cord, and it immediately runs for another few minutes? Or do you have to wait a few minutes, or remove the gas cap, or something, before it will restart?

If you have an inline spark tester, connect that, and see if it suddenly stops flashing (indicating a loss of spark) when the engine dies. If the spark suddenly goes away as it dies, you can stop chasing fuel-related issues.

As orangputeh said, the exact symptoms as it dies would be educational. If it's instant, like you killed the ignition, that's one thing. If it starts to sputter and stumble, that might point to fuel.

- What happens if you turn on the choke as it's dying? Even when I close the fuel shutoff and run my carb dry, adding choke as it starts dying will get it to run for a few more seconds.
- What happens if you spray ether/gas into the carb intake as it's dying?
- Could anything be jiggling around, and grounding out the ignition-kill wire? On my Tecumsehs, that's by the bottom of the throttle lever, I think mine may be green. You could also try disconnecting the wire from the throttle lever. If it has a fuel-shutoff, you can always kill the engine that way, worst-case. Of course, getting it to *stop* hasn't been your problem recently.
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
4,160 Posts
Might be worth checking the valves as well. OHV engines typically are hard to start when the valves get loose, but the older flat head engines can loose compression and power. It is more typical with the 5 HP Tecumseh engines, but the exhaust valves loose clearance and then as they heat up and expand they no longer close properly. You will have to pull the valve out and grind the end of the stem down to spec if that is your issue. Will probably help to lap it as well. There is a little access cover on the side of the engine and you just stick a feeler gauge in the gap between the valve and the lifter to check quick.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top