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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My apologies, but I haven’t taken delivery yet. I purchased it from Home Depot so that means I will need to fill the oil. While I am aware the machine should come with oil, some of the information I have come across online has indicated that the oil is missing at times.

Hence, why I make the post asking the question. Since I do not have the machine yet, I don’t have the owners manual yet.

Hence, planning ahead, and asking…



What does the owner's manual say? One came with the new machine. Why would we know more than the manufacturer who made your machine?
 

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What I said...
I KNOW you what the manual says, my comment was directed to the OP. He could have compared the manual's chart to what is being said here.
To be fair... I'd say some of us have at least a 50-50 shot at doing better,
50-50 are not great odds when you are dealing with a multi thousand dollar new machine. I still maintain that you cannot go wrong with the mfr's recommendations for basic info like gas, oil and routine maintenance. Maybe you can do better with more esoteric items, like jetting for altitude and other adjustments, (or frequency of maint items) but we are talking basics here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I KNOW you what the manual says, my comment was directed to the OP. He could have compared the manual's chart to what is being said here.

50-50 are not great odds when you are dealing with a multi thousand dollar new machine. I still maintain that you cannot go wrong with the mfr's recommendations for basic info like gas, oil and routine maintenance. Maybe you can do better with more esoteric items, like jetting for altitude and other adjustments, (or frequency of maint items) but we are talking basics here.
I think I was very clear the reason why I was asking a question regarding the oil recommendation and not having the owners manual in hand yet.

Mr. Rogers use to say “The first way is to be kind. The second way is to be kind. The third way is to be kind”

I really do hope you have a wonderful week and holiday.
 

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...but we are talking basics here.
Exactly... so let's keep it basic (and cool please).

The manufacturer likely bases their numbers on the harshest operating conditions foreseen (in this case -20° F). These recommendations may not be applicable in every situation. For instance, I have no need here for 5-30 because it just doesn't get that cold.

The manual also states periods for oil changes... so if you find dirty oil do you keep running it because that's what the "Book" says is OK? Or do you use common sense and get it outta there.

?
 

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And before I put away my soapbox... another thing to remember is that all oils rated at a specific viscosity do not perform equally... another case of the "real world" not exactly agreeing with what's printed.

A very simple example, from one of Project Farm's videos. These three oils are all rated the same (10-30) but their performance at -15° F varies significantly.

 

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I run 5W30 dino oil for the first oil change and then 5W30 full synthetic after that. Mine came from the dealership with dino oil installed. Definitely check your oil levels before you run the blower.
For 20 years I started my Honda with the recoil and I can say with full certainty. "Here in Canada when the weather gets cold it is much easier to pull over a motor with full synthetic motor oil when the engine is cold". Ease of resistance means less friction, which means less wear.
For some reason our Honda dealers here don't even stock synthetic 5W30. They should. After 20 years my Hondas engine ran as strong as it did when it was first broken in. They are great engines.
 

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The manual also states periods for oil changes... so if you find dirty oil do you keep running it because that's what the "Book" says is OK? Or do you use common sense and get it outta there.
Well, if you can id dirty oil, by sight, more power to you. I'd base the oil change based on number of hours the engine ran with some windage for how long each time. If I felt the engine ran most of the time for a long enough period of time to burn off moisture, that would make a difference compared to light snowfalls with the engine on for say half an hour or less. Were I concerned about the oil, I would have it analyzed, as I do with my cars. My GMC van has a computer that tells me how much oil life is left in the oil. I've checked that with an oil analysis and so far, it seems to be right on the money. That said, I change the oil when its down to 20% life or lower.
A very simple example, from one of Project Farm's videos.
Chemical engineers do a lot more tests than what was shown in the video. And these simplistic tests don't show much beyond a pitch for Amazon brand oil. If Honda wants SJ oil, as far as I am concerned, any brand that meets the SJ requirements is good enough. YMMV.
 

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With synthetic it does not make a lot of difference between 5 and 10. I use 10 as Mobile 4T cycle oil is readily available and I used it in the cycles , lawnmower. I keep my snow-blowers in the shed outside and even the pull start Yahamah will fire up sub zero ok (3 good pulls) - the electric start Honda no issue and I let both warm up a bit before proceeding.

I am inclined to break in on conventional, more because its neutral at worst and may help some. Pretty much all it comes with that so just run it to the first oil change.

The only machine I have ever had that used a break in oil was the Passat Diesel and I still don't know what was different. Makeup was the normal oil. You did the first change at 5k and then onto a 10k interval for the Synthetic they used after that.
 

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The manual also states periods for oil changes... so if you find dirty oil do you keep running it because that's what the "Book" says is OK? Or do you use common sense and get it outta there.

Well as soon as you change the oil in the Passat (diesel) its dirty again. Cleanin git up could take a few changes (grin)

I spent a career dealing with backup generators (mostly diesel, a couple natural gas) - mfg says 1 year on a Diesel, I ran them 5 years (26 hours a year more or less). Watched the additives via oil sampling, probably could have run 10.

Ease of resistance means less friction, which means less wear.

That is not quite correct though I am also a syn kind of guy. Ease of crank means the oil has not thickened up (syn is great, dyno sucks that way) . So there is a relevancy that the flow is better at start and that will reduce wear. How much? Not a clue. As kind of a ref, a backup gen racks up to 1800 RPM immediately (4 pole) and I never had one with any issues on conventional (yes it was a 50+ deg F room) and the block heaters were kept going.

The engine cranks easier and starts easier which is why I use it. The wear aspect may be of benefit and likely is but no one I know of has ever quantified it.

That said, VW put in the book that 10k was the recommended change interval (syn) . That tells you a lot on how long an oil is good for, syn or dyno (if its diesle rated) and that is a diesel engine that runs dirty. Oil is black as soon as you start it up after an oil change.

I don't pay attention to the mfg hours. I have no issues with 5 years on syn oil in the yard machines. The Yamaha has 22 some odd years on it doing that, still runs like new. Dyno I would change it every couple of years if it was not a diesel rated dyno (aka Delo 400 and that is danged near a synthetic oil though it is dyno and thickens up at low temps, ergo, reason I went to Syn).

Flip side is it does not hurt to change oil more often than really needed and if that is a comfort, well its your machine and how you sleep at night is important and it does not cost much.
 

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Well as soon as you change the oil in the Passat (diesel) its dirty again. Cleanin git up could take a few changes (grin)...
Shirley... surely the bet's off for diesels... 🤣 And road-going equipment in general... many more factors at play and mileage is generally a good mark to follow.

Our little one-cylinder wonders are thankfully very simple machines... 🍻
 

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Package arrived and was not missing the Honda Oil so it made a things bit easier. Thank you all for your assistance!
Excellent... make sure to keep checking it before every engine start/use. Look for low oil level and/or any signs of contamination (metal sparklies etc.) It's not unusual for a new engine to use a little oil during the first few hours as it 'breaks in'... nothing to worry about, just keep it topped up.

Ohyeah... we like pictures... 🤞👍
 
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