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Discussion Starter #1
im new to the page and looking for some information on my bobcat walkbehind snowblower.
The tag on my snowblower say I.D. T4-20-1014
Wisconsin Marine INc. Lake Mills Wis., USA
4 hp briggs & stratton model 100212 type 0261-01 code 7706290.

the snowblower doesnt seem to like the heavy or deep snow like i think it should. its always getting bogged down to the point i have to stop and wait for it to catch up.
I had tried to find a replacement belt for the auger thinking it was too old and slipping, but i am not willing to spend $50 on a single belt as that is more then i paid for the machine.

Any information on how to stop this issue would be great.
 

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:welcome: to the forum stealraine


:moved: to the Bob-Cat section

How wide is the auger ??

.
 

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Hard telling without seeing it run - but it sounds like the governor is not adjusted or operating the way it should.


Mark where it's at before you adjust......


congrats on the old Bob Cat - they are cool old machines!
 

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:white^_^arial^_^0^_
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hard telling without seeing it run - but it sounds like the governor is not adjusted or operating the way it should. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B12rX9pWtTk


Mark where it's at before you adjust......


congrats on the old Bob Cat - they are cool old machines!
thanks ill try that. it just seems the blades aren't spinning fast enough when I look at them. I was wondering what would happen if I tightened or loosened the nut on the Impeller drive?
 

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Welcome to the forum. I hope we can help. In my limited knowledge of BobcaTs , I wasn't aware they put a 4 hp engine on their machines.I was going to look up the torque clutch spring tension for you but I only have info on 5,7 and 8 hp models . Maybe others can chime in on the use of 4 hp engines. Could you post some pics of the engine output. By your engine code there is no 6:1 reduction on the output. That itself is no problem as the Crary models did not either when they went with Tecumseh engines.I am interested to see the drive train configuration coming off the engine.
 

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Welcome to the Forum and Congratulations on the Bob-caT!

There were 4 H.P. models built into the late 60's. The 1st stage auger should turn somewhat slowly, while the second stage impeller should spin pretty quickly.
In proper working order, the 4hp versions, like the later 5 hp ones, will chew into heavy snow, but slower than a later machine with the bigger engines.

As said, the governor could be out of adjustment.

Does dis-engaging the drive wheels help at all?

Did you put oil into all of the lubrication points? All of the machine's bearings have lubrication points with little spring loaded caps on the top... they look like the rain flap on the top of a tractor or rig's diesel engine smoke stack. You need to wipe off any grime on them, then oil them with an oil can (think Dorothy and Tin Man). Keep adding W30 oil slowly until you start to see oil weeping out of the bearing centers... DO NOT ADD GREASE!!! It will cause the bearings to lock up when they are cold and will put lots of stress on everything, eventually leading to extra wear and stress cracks.
With the spark plug out, sowly rotate all of the moving parts by hand and see if the bearings turn easily, are stiff, or are sloppy. They should turn freely.

How does the engine run?

If the engine isnt building enough power, it will definately bog out in heavy snow. There could be a number of engine issues that could cause it to act this way. That engine's valves were designed for use with Leaded Gasoline, not today's gas. You could have a valve wear issue a causing power loss under load. Could also be a fuel issue. Being that old, the carb may need to be rebuilt.

Next up would be replacing the belts... dont assume that the belts you find listed online are correct for the machine. There are a number of different belts used over the years and the sizes were not the same... You will need to take off your originals and use those as examples. They are a little tricky to slip on/off past the belt guide fingers, but it can be done if you take your time. Carefully pry gently up on the guide finger, while turning the pulley and pressing the belt past the guide finger, Either in or off., make absolutely sure the spark plug is out of the engine block... you dont want to kick start the engine by turning the pulley over... that would be VERY BAD.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Welcome to the Forum and Congratulations on the Bob-caT!

There were 4 H.P. models built into the late 60's. The 1st stage auger should turn somewhat slowly, while the second stage impeller should spin pretty quickly.
In proper working order, the 4hp versions, like the later 5 hp ones, will chew into heavy snow, but slower than a later machine with the bigger engines.

As said, the governor could be out of adjustment.

Does dis-engaging the drive wheels help at all?

Did you put oil into all of the lubrication points? All of the machine's bearings have lubrication points with little spring loaded caps on the top... they look like the rain flap on the top of a tractor or rig's diesel engine smoke stack. You need to wipe off any grime on them, then oil them with an oil can (think Dorothy and Tin Man). Keep adding W30 oil slowly until you start to see oil weeping out of the bearing centers... DO NOT ADD GREASE!!! It will cause the bearings to lock up when they are cold and will put lots of stress on everything, eventually leading to extra wear and stress cracks.
With the spark plug out, sowly rotate all of the moving parts by hand and see if the bearings turn easily, are stiff, or are sloppy. They should turn freely.

How does the engine run?

If the engine isnt building enough power, it will definately bog out in heavy snow. There could be a number of engine issues that could cause it to act this way. That engine's valves were designed for use with Leaded Gasoline, not today's gas. You could have a valve wear issue a causing power loss under load. Could also be a fuel issue. Being that old, the carb may need to be rebuilt.

Next up would be replacing the belts... dont assume that the belts you find listed online are correct for the machine. There are a number of different belts used over the years and the sizes were not the same... You will need to take off your originals and use those as examples. They are a little tricky to slip on/off past the belt guide fingers, but it can be done if you take your time. Carefully pry gently up on the guide finger, while turning the pulley and pressing the belt past the guide finger, Either in or off., make absolutely sure the spark plug is out of the engine block... you dont want to kick start the engine by turning the pulley over... that would be VERY BAD.


I have tried the govener yet but I do keep it oiled regularly.
The engine runs fine with no real issues until the snow bogs it down.
I am in the process of looking for new belts but so far can not find the right profile belt in my town. I could order from online but the matching numbered belts are frankly to spendy in my opinion. I found the belts for it from that steve waites website. My belts, or at least the auger drive, still say bobcat 65091 on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I havent tried the govener yet but I do keep it oiled regularly.
The engine runs fine with no real issues until the snow bogs it down.
I am in the process of looking for new belts but so far can not find the right profile belt in my town. I could order from online but the matching numbered belts are frankly to spendy in my opinion. I found the belts for it from that steve waites website. My belts, or at least the auger drive, still say bobcat 65091 on them.[/QUOTE]
Forgot the pic sorry
 

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Looks like its in pretty good shape! It looks like a late 60's machine, because of the Briggs' "Easy Spin' Decals. Essentially, it is the same as the 5hp machines of similar vintage. Could be just the lighting, but the auger chain drive seems to need a good cleaning and regreasing...When Ive servived mine, I hosed it down with compressed carb cleaner, to wash out all the old crap and sand that builds up in there. I let the chain air dry for about 5 minutes, a repeat until its clean... amazing how much crap gets into the chain. Ive been using Mobil 1 "green" full synthetic bearing grease... works great.
 
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Yeah - it's in great shape! I'd drop the carb out for a thorough cleaning. Put a fresh kit in it wouldn't hurt. Use a carb wire cleaning tool to get into the tiny passages with afer a good soaking.
 

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Just read your post. Steve knows these machines VERY WELL. His "65091A" belts are a specialized size/design order that he set up with Gates because many belts simply dont fit right. The "A37" belt is pretty generic you just need to use the length measurement. I cant remember what length I used offhand but I rounded it down to accomedate for age/stretching. I also found a special order belt from a guy in the Carolinas that matched the original 65091... the 65091 out there in stores will fit, but its not the same side-angle taper. Ive read many people stating, including Steve, that it gets chewed up until it either fits the sheave, or burns up and slips because its glazed... My 7hp had the wrong belt on it when I got it... the whole belt drive area was full of rubber dust, but it worked... I replaced it recently, and havent had enough snow to test it thoroughly, but it engages very nicely.
 

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They may have. I dont have my Bob-caT engine spec sheet handy. Memory says they killed that in the late 60's, but I could be wrong. I havent looked at my info book for awhile, so my memory might be off. Its one of a number of things I intend to post, but I need to scan it all.
 

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Also, in the pic of his belt, it does have its gear reduction drive.
 

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I will try to look it up tonight and post it.
 

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Also, looking at that belt the "7D 1" on the belt may be the designation of the belt side-angle taper.
 
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