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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

not new to snow blowing but new to this forum. Bought my current place in the boonies of Eastern Canuckistan 17 years ago after town living my entire life. After the first snowfall of that year I realized I wasn't about to shovel 200 feet of gravel driveway. Knowing nothing about nothing we ran to the nearest big box store and I picked up a 33inch 13HP Yardman blower. Have to say it did a good job over the years even though I did a fair number of repairs to it. (broken crank chute, friction disk, steering cables, auger cable, belts, belts, more belts. Did I mention belts?

Yesterday I took possession of a Toro Power Max HD 928. I set it up last evening and fluid filmed the heck out of it. As luck would have it we had 20cm of snow over night so I got to give it a go right away.

let me tell ya, I knew when I bought it the controls were drive on left and auger on right - the opposite of my old machine. Every single time I messed up and did it the wrong way this morning. Looked and felt like an idiot . Hope I can shake that muscle memory off quick

Beyond that seems like a great machine. The auto steer seemed to work ok, throws snow like its got something to prove. The Led light is much brighter than the tired old halogen.

Any tips or tricks for these new fangled blowers? I've decided to go with synthetic oil over dino. I was wondering about different skids for it. The stock ones seem really small. Armorskids look interesting but shipping is more than the cost of the skids themselves.
 

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Consider rollers. Homemade or Arnold $27 at Home Depot.
 

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Keep using the fluid film on the impeller housing all season, coat the impeller, chute and spout every time you use it so it will cast the snow farther for you.

If you have a welding shop nearby to make new skis for it, do that as you need to have skis longer than the auger housing to prevent them from digging into the gravel and make sure both ends of the skis have curved ends as you do not want to back up and dig into the gravel Or you can have them weld ends on it and weld gussets on the ends to strengthen the ends of the skis but I think all you will need is to have them heat the ends up to curve them.

If you have the cast iron skids you should not use them with the skis just set them aside and take them to the welding shop to make sure they have all the dimensions for mounting the skis on the side plates/weldments of the snow blower.

YOU need to make sure that you have the dimensions for the front to back length of the auger housing so they can make the skis the right length as too short a ski and it will not mount on the snow blower as the curved ends will interfere with the front and rear of the snow blower.

You need 1/4" inch or 1 centimeter thick flat stock for the skis 3 inches(9 centimeters+-) wide to help it float easier and to prevent it from sinking forward into the gravel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Keep using the fluid film on the impeller housing all season, coat the impeller, chute and spout every time you use it so it will cast the snow farther for you.

If you have a welding shop nearby to make new skis for it, do that as you need to have skis longer than the auger housing to prevent them from digging into the gravel and make sure both ends of the skis have curved ends as you do not want to back up and dig into the gravel Or you can have them weld ends on it and weld gussets on the ends to strengthen the ends of the skis but I think all you will need is to have them heat the ends up to curve them.

If you have the cast iron skids you should not use them with the skis just set them aside and take them to the welding shop to make sure they have all the dimensions for mounting the skis on the side plates/weldments of the snow blower.

YOU need to make sure that you have the dimensions for the front to back length of the auger housing so they can make the skis the right length as too short a ski and it will not mount on the snow blower as the curved ends will interfere with the front and rear of the snow blower.

You need 1/4" inch or 1 centimeter thick flat stock for the skis 3 inches(9 centimeters+-) wide to help it float easier and to prevent it from sinking forward into the gravel.
great suggestions.... If that's not feasible to do what are most folks thoughts on the armorskids? Would like to be confident of a big improvement before spending $150 getting them shipped to the great white north
 

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great suggestions.... If that's not feasible to do what are most folks thoughts on the armorskids? Would like to be confident of a big improvement before spending $150 getting them shipped to the great white north
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Hello Squid,

Get a quote for the steel and the welding before you have
the armorskids shipped to Eastern Canukistan(Newfoundland?? :eek:).

Estimate:
2-3 hours of labor, cutting 8 small pieces of steel and 2 18" pieces of 1/4" by 3" by 18" flat stock- 12-14 pounds of steel+-; 20 inches of weld and drilling four holes for mounting uprights to the skis.

The only negative is the armor skids are shorter than the home made 18 inch skis and if the gravel is mushy.............................................
 

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Welcome Squid, nice machine. How about a photo?

As you have been blowing that drive way for years, what skids did you have on your old machine?

I have a large gravel driveway and have the stock steel skids on both my Ariens machines and don't have any issues once the ground freezes or I have a snow base built up.
Make sure the scraper bar is raised up fairly high and set up level.

Lot of good reviews on the Armor skids from members on this site, but the cost for us Canucks is very pricey. I would give the factory skids a full winter and see how they perform.
 

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Welcome aboard. In Merchant Mariner parlance, a Squid is someone in the navy. Does this apply to you?
 

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Welcome from an old member, with old machines. :geek:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Welcome Squid, nice machine. How about a photo?

As you have been blowing that drive way for years, what skids did you have on your old machine?

I have a large gravel driveway and have the stock steel skids on both my Ariens machines and don't have any issues once the ground freezes or I have a snow base built up.
Make sure the scraper bar is raised up fairly high and set up level.

Lot of good reviews on the Armor skids from members on this site, but the cost for us Canucks is very pricey. I would give the factory skids a full winter and see how they perform.
Used the stock skids on the old machine - steel 6 - 8 inches or so. Like you, after the base gets down usually its not much of an issue having gravel until the thaw. Although lately it seems thaws and freezes come at any time..

The bottom bit of the driveway and the new machine

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the
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