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Husky looks very nice and seems built tough. I'm looking for a new snowblower, my cub cadet needs some repairs but I don't have time to do it now and paying for it at this time will probably cost a lot and it will not resolve my immediate problem because here it is snowing everyday almost... I need one now but I want to make my decision after doing my research. Thank you for more advice on this model that I'm looking for.
A friend just bought a ST 227P has about 6 hrs on it and loves it , I have used a ST 224P for a dozen hrs last year and this year no problems at all.:3tens:
 

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ST227P After a Year of Use.

A mid-season update:

I'm putting the second scraper bar on this week. The factory plastic shoes, and the larger plastic ones I med for it, are wearing pretty fast with all the use the machine has gotten so far. The drive system every once in a while does a little stutter on engagement, a possible sign of things to come. So friction disks and rubber pieces will be acquired soon for that service. I will be actively looking for a metal or metal-faced skid shoe option too.

The rest: Machine has been flawless except for the wear items. Starts easily on the first pull of the cord. This is its second snow season and has about 30 hrs on the Hobbs so far. So far so good. Were I to do it again, knowing what I know now, I'd be looking hard at the ST330 to get the hydrostatic drive instead of the friction wheels. For twice what we paid for the one we have. Looks like consumable parts for the drive section are around $50 or so, spring project list started. Belts are still original with no appreciable wear showing last time I inspected (last spring).
 
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Update from yesterday's posting:

The stuttering in the drive was solved with a very small cable adjustment. No hints of any stuttering after adding about 3/4 turn of tension on the drive engagement cable. I still have a couple drive pieces on my shopping list for the spares bin. At least a rubber drive ring 'tire' and the mating drive pulley with friction face. The rest of the pieces look good. I added some lubrication where the pieces slide on the shaft, and a tiny bit on the direction/speed adjustment arm/cam.

Installed a new scraper bar this morning, and decided to install the old (now narrow...) blade under the new one, with the auger housing lip sandwiched between. There's a little distortion on that bottom lip where it crashed into something. Adding the now-narrow old blade there will keep things straighter plus prevent any further contact and damage. New bolts and nuts too.

So all is good again. It's snowing still, looking for another 6" by 4pm. Supposed to continue with few breaks to the weekend. More workout for the machine, less shoveling for Bob.
 
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I have the same snowblower and have loved it. Do you know of any resources (YouTube, online references) for disassembly for maintenance?
Thanks!
 

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I have the same snowblower and have loved it. Do you know of any resources (YouTube, online references) for disassembly for maintenance?
Thanks!
I found a copy of the parts and service manuals someplace online. I'm not at home so don't have the links handy. I'll say that the "service" manaul for the machine itself is OK but not great. It shows common stuff including hints on belt changes and all, how to "split" the machine to separate the auger from the traction drive part, etc. The engine has its own manual, with a copy in the crate with the tool when new. A bit of google and a dose of imagination will get the books for you.

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I've only replaced skid shoes and the scraper bar so far. The belt cover comes off for easy top access for belt inspections. The lower rear cover under the engine comes off with four screws, and you can do a pretty full inspection with just those off. Belts look fine after a :good" snow season so far. To actually swap a belt though, the drive unit hinges to the auger section if you need to change belts. You can undoubtedly find a YeauTooob thread that shows how that works.
 
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I've only replaced skid shoes and the scraper bar so far. .
I have a Husqvarna ST227 in Craftsman clothing. I put Armorskids on it this year and they are very good. They extend quite a bit further forward than the stock skids, and lift the bucket sooner getting over those bumps in the road.
 

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I have a Husqvarna ST227 in Craftsman clothing. I put Armorskids on it this year and they are very good. They extend quite a bit further forward than the stock skids, and lift the bucket sooner getting over those bumps in the road.
Thanks. I've looked at those and thought hard about adding them, but have yet to pull the trigger. I made a dozen Delrin skids last year, about 8" long and 3/4" thick, and have been slowly going through the first faces on the first set I installed. They are close to getting flipped over, with some serious use so far this season (now at about 35 new engine hours so far this snow season). We have a pavingstone driveway with sculpted top surface, so the Delrin is probably safer than the metal Armorskids. At least that's my thinking. Plus all the effort in those spares I made would go to waste...

Cleaned five driveways plus the circle and some of the street this morning. About three inches of very dry powder. I shoveled most of it into rows, then let the machine do the heavy lifting. Finished with the push broom. Looked pretty darn pristine until it started to snow again. Record snow season already I understand.

I had a home in Mammoth Lakes in the Sierras. Our climate here in the middle of Oregon is about the same, just twenty fewer feet of snow to manage, on average. This is turning into a far-from-average snow year at both places.
 

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My ST227P is stuck in reverse. The problem is in the transmission I think. The cables seem to be fine. I removed the belt cover but there is nothing to see. I disconnected the shift cable and moved the shift arm manually. Still in reverse no matter where the arm stops. Any ideas before I take it to the shop???
 

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I bought a New ST227 snow blower last winter. my wife used it to snow blow the end of drive way and hit some big rocks. instead of shear bolts shearing like designed to, it bent the impeller to the point it is hitting bolts as it spins. seeing the original shear bolts never broke is this returnable to Lowes and covered by warrantee. It sounds like a manufactures defect.
Thanks.
 

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Worth a try, but that kind of "abuse" may or may not be covered. In my limited experience, Lowes is barely equipped to "assemble" and sell the machines. There is no repair capability at least at the stores I've been in. You may decide it's cheaper/easier to do a little re-bending on the impeller ribbons to allow them to clear the bolts they are hitting. Look also to verify that the scraper and the bottom of the bucket aren't bent up. The adjustments on the plastic shoes need to maintain the scraper up off the floor by at least 1/8" or so when measured from the garage floor. Else the scraper drags and distorts from every little thing it hits. Those plastic shoes do wear in use as they contact the driveway as you use the machine. They need to be regularly checked and adjusted to compensate for the wear. I use pait stirring sticks to set the clearance, based on guidance from folks here in the forum.

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I've replaced one shear pin in three snow seasons, that time thanks to a large but hidden chunk of ice that the plow guys thoughtfully stashed in the street in front of the house. I don't know the angle of the attack on the chunk, whether it was a head-on collision or I just got next to it with the impeller. Regardless, the bolt did exactly what I expect it to do when I bump an immovable object. It lives to fight another day anyway.

Good luck, and report back your results.
 

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I bought a New ST227 snow blower last winter. my wife used it to snow blow the end of drive way and hit some big rocks. instead of shear bolts shearing like designed to, it bent the impeller to the point it is hitting bolts as it spins. seeing the original shear bolts never broke is this returnable to Lowes and covered by warrantee. It sounds like a manufactures defect.
Thanks.
no it not sheeh
operator error
 

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My ST227P is stuck in reverse. The problem is in the transmission I think. The cables seem to be fine. I removed the belt cover but there is nothing to see. I disconnected the shift cable and moved the shift arm manually. Still in reverse no matter where the arm stops. Any ideas before I take it to the shop???

The friction wheel bearing (#18) may have popped out of the shift arm(#8). Sometimes that happens if the E-ring (#13) pops out off the hex shaft(#26).



 
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