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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I just joined the forum. I have owned a 7524 since 2004, and this morning I just bought a used Deluxe 24 from Craigslist and am really excited to own it! My little 7524 always got the job done but I have a long driveway alongside my house and have often wished for some more oomph to blow the snow far forward before I can then blow it sideways. I was considering getting the Platinum 24 SHO but when I saw this deal I decided to try out the Deluxe 24 first, and I'm guessing it will work for me, and it was a lot cheaper than springing for a new Platinum!

I am surprised and happy at how much beefier even this Deluxe 24 is vs my 7524!

Anyway of course on Day 1 of ownership and with no snow in sight for a loooong time, I am eyeballing my purchase and wanted advice on rust spots and whether to do anything about them. The prior owner says he changed oil and spark plug every year and the machine runs smooth.

So do I try to do something to treat this rust (on the impeller area, on the lower edges of the bucket, and on the front of the gearcase although I know it is just decorative where it was originally painted silver)? I'm going to adjust the skid shoes a little because the guy had the scraper bar straight down to the pavement. Anything else to do? I notice there is grease oozing out at the shear pins so I think the guy pumped a bunch of grease into the zirks down there.
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Welcome Hogan773, lots of knowledgeable and helpful folks on here to offer guidance and congrats on your new machine.

First thing I would do is pull the wheels and clean up the shafts and get some low temp grease or anti seize on the shafts and sand the rust on the clips and give the clips a coat of paint if you wish to. Pull the belly pan and make sure there is lube where it should be and check the friction disc.

I have never seen the cap on the gear box rust like that, probably need to sand and paint it to stop any further rusting. Check the gear lube level as per the owners manual, definitely don't want that cap developing a leak. Hard to tell from photos how bad the rust has ate into the cap, if really bad you may need to replace it?

It should look like this:

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The wear marks in the impeller housing are minor and normal, but you could sand them and paint them if you wish.

It looks like moisture has got under the powder coating on the edges of the bucket, and the coating may continue to lift away if left this way. You could scrape any loose paint/powder coat off in these areas, sand to bare metal, clean the metal with paint thinner , prime and paint.

Allis Chalmers Orange and Chevy orange engine paint are close matches, but not exact. I would probably buy the Ariens orange touch up paint (more expensive), but one can should be enough to take care of any future paint loss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Welcome Hogan773, lots of knowledgeable and helpful folks on here to offer guidance and congrats on your new machine.

First thing I would do is pull the wheels and clean up the shafts and get some low temp grease or anti seize on the shafts and sand the rust on the clips and give the clips a coat of paint if you wish to. Pull the belly pan and make sure there is lube where it should be and check the friction disc.

I have never seen the cap on the gear box rust like that, probably need to sand and paint it to stop any further rusting. Check the gear lube level as per the owners manual, definitely don't want that cap developing a leak. Hard to tell from photos how bad the rust has ate into the cap, if really bad you may need to replace it?

It should look like this:

View attachment 178729


The wear marks in the impeller housing are minor and normal, but you could sand them and paint them if you wish.

It looks like moisture has got under the powder coating on the edges of the bucket, and the coating may continue to lift away if left this way. You could scrape any loose paint/powder coat off in these areas, sand to bare metal, clean the metal with paint thinner , prime and paint.

Allis Chalmers Orange and Chevy orange engine paint are close matches, but not exact. I would probably buy the Ariens orange touch up paint (more expensive), but one can should be enough to take care of any future paint loss.
Thanks - yes I was also a bit put off by the rust on that cap after only 4 years and when it was stored in his garage. He mentioned that he put a tarp over it in the garage so maybe that actually accelerated the rust? I looked at a parts diagram and that "cap" is a part, but I don't see how it attaches (screws into the gearbox or just pushes in with friction? Would you suggest replacing the cap or just sanding that area, priming and then painting it black?

For painting, I assume some Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer followed by either the Orange spray paints or Ariens touch up paint as you suggested. And basically don't worry about the skid marks in by the impeller....should I spray some WD40 or other oil or spread some Silglyde in there to seal it off from air to prevent more rust or just accept that this area gets the paint knocked off and thus rust is formed?
 

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It depends how bad the cap is rusted, it is probably fairly thin plated metal. I would imagine the cap is a press in fit, you could try the search feature on this forum and look for similar threads on these machines.
The photo I posted is my Deluxe 28 SHO after 3 winters. I would say the tarp may have trapped moisture in a damp garage, as well as possible salt residue left on the machine, as much of the plated hardware looks corroded.

I use Fluid Film on my machines. I apply it to the inside of the bucket, augers and inside the chute several times during the winter and after I have washed out the bucket in the spring before I store it for the summer.
The Fluid Film will prevent snow from sticking to the augers and inside the chute, as well as help prevent rust.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I looked closer and that cap is still attached (I can see the Ariens logo) so I think I will just sand it down and paint the area

I also checked the auger gear case oil and it seems at a perfect level 2.5" down, and is nice and clean red fluid.

I need to work on those wheels and axles as you mentioned. I took both clips off and left wheel is missing the circlip. Does that really matter? Surprised at the surface rust on those clips after 4 years. I would have thought that Ariens could provide a wheel clip made of STAINLESS STEEL for that application?

Otherwise the front end seems a little out of adjustment - the scraper bar like I said is resting on the ground rather than 1/4" above the ground, and seems a little worn at a very slight angle. Will see if I can get that adjusted along with the skid shoes correctly, and also paint those edges of the bucket. On my old 2004 7524 the augur shaft is still nice and silver and this one shows some surface rust although not too bad. Perhaps this owner had a lot of salt in his snowblowing and didn't rinse it off, and also tarping it up in the garage kept the whole thing slightly moist. Oh well I think it is not going to affect the unit.

Anyone know of a good match for the grayish silverish bluish wheel color if I decide to mask off the tires and spray the wheels just for fun?
 

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Fluid film does work great, its a bit pricey by the can, but definitely gets the job done. Yea see thats another thing I'm not crazy about on all these newer made Ariens blowers, all of the non painted hardware like that gear case cap, rust. On my 10,000 series the only non painted area that corroded a bit were the chrome handles, common for chrome, the rest still isn't rusty. On this ST824 from 1987 the only part that got surface rust was the lower chute rod, but it will clean right off with a wire brush. The new machines get rusty and turn a brown color. Definitely cheaper hardware used now. On that rusty gearcase cap, I would wire brush that and than paint it with a metallic color.
 
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The 7524 is similar to a Compact, which throws snow at about the same distance with a Deluxe 24. The difference is that the Deluxe 24 is more heavy duty and clear snow more quickly. It also has autoturn. The Deluxe SHO has the output that you are looking for (it throws snow far). Or, if you have the older Deluxe 24 like mine, it already came with the Deluxe SHO larger drive pulley. Not necessary to throw snow far, but it is fun.

I took my snow blower a part, sanded and painted/greased/anti-seized/ every rust spot. Replaced belts and whistles. Did my engine valve job last week, even though it was in good condition/within specs. It is a lot of work, but then you have a reliable snow blower for many years to come.
 

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I have so much more paint scratches in one year, than what he has in four years. It must be the little rock and sand that they spread out on the street in the winter. I will probably avoid blowing snow on the street next year.
 

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I'm pretty sure that your auger tubes are all rusted in the inside (inner tubes), as mine did. Of course, they didn't paint it there. You have a short augers shaft design so rust won't affect as much. I like to keep everything clean and free of rust (for long term reliability). So, I cleaned off the rust and applied anti-size in there. The flange bearings/bushings will need to be greased as well.
 

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It is also very important to note this:

Fluid Film is a very very tasty condiment/seasoning for the little moat monsters when getting rid of the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTER and feeding the little moat monsters with its remains.

It will let you double or triple your casting distance and feed two or three times as many of the little moat monsters at once.

Applying three coats of Fluid Film to everything that will contact snow letting it dry completely between coats will aid in preventing ice and snow from sticking.

ME; I use the Fluid Film a lot and I also use my kerosene fired space heater to melt off the ice and snow when I am done clearing snow making sure the toro snowpups and the OEM troy bilt snow blower will be hot and dry before I store them for the day. Like "Wells Lamont" I am fussy.

Please Note; I am still attempting to have JD44 inch 2 stage snow blower stolen with no questions asked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the additional comments and suggestions guys! I am going to order some poly skid shoes, probably the Detroit ones, as they get rave reviews. I know the Deluxe 24 is "similar throw distance" as my little 7524 but this Deluxe is much beefier looking - bigger impeller, bigger tires, bigger engine and torque - so I think I can cut through my work more quickly and also attack the street pile more easily. Plus my D24 includes heated handgrips so nice little bonus haha! There is no such thing as a Deluxe 24 SHO. That is the Platinum 24 SHO and that thing would be a monster with 369cc engine on a 24 inch auger and 14 inch impeller! If I ever find one used at a fair price I would prolly trade up, but I got this D24 for 600 bucks and a new Platinum 24 SHO is $1750 with tax, so a lotttt more money for that extra power. The man-brain still wants the Platinum but the rational brain says "it snows 8+ inches usually only a few times a year here, and 12+ inches less than that, and somehow you survived just fine with a 7524 for 16 years now, so tell me again why spending an extra $1100 to get the bigger engine is a life or death thing all of a sudden?????" haha

I will search the forum but is it worth doing the impeller upgrade with the rubber flaps or more risk/trouble than it's worth? (drilling holes into impeller, not getting the balance correct, potential drag from the rubber flaps on the impeller housing, etc)?
 

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once you start it will never end

welcome to SA......snowblower's anonymous
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
once you start it will never end

welcome to SA......snowblower's anonymous
Funny thing is for most snows of 3 inches or whatever, I literally take my $7 Menards plastic shovel and buzz around the sidewalk and walkways and around the car, and then we just drive through whatever little pile was left if the plow actually came. So I might have 2 or 3 times a season where I actually even get the dang thing out of the garage, but here I am in May and I am getting ready to get my new adopted machine all fixed up perfect haha

I'm going to wait to sell my old one until the forecast shows a big storm coming this way haha....figure that will be worth an extra hundy on the sales price haha
 

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I would also recommend the fluid film. It will do pretty good as far as protecting areas from rust. Perhaps wire brush the heavy stuff, then give it a coating of fluid film.

If the snow is wet and heavy, I will usually give the inside of the blower a spray with some silicone spray / wd40. It is certainly cheaper than the fluid film, and I also only use my blower 2 or three times a year as well.

If you have the space, I would keep the old one unless someone offered you stupid money for it. If you have owned the machine since new, and it is in good shape, why part with it. Keep it as a backup if the other one does not start. I remember during one particularly bad storm (2+ feet), my MTD would not start. (I only had the one machine at the time.) I never felt so disheartened. Fortunately I was able to get it running and use it.

I always looked at it this way: One snowblower is good, two is better, and when you have three, you will end up here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would also recommend the fluid film. It will do pretty good as far as protecting areas from rust. Perhaps wire brush the heavy stuff, then give it a coating of fluid film.

If the snow is wet and heavy, I will usually give the inside of the blower a spray with some silicone spray / wd40. It is certainly cheaper than the fluid film, and I also only use my blower 2 or three times a year as well.

If you have the space, I would keep the old one unless someone offered you stupid money for it. If you have owned the machine since new, and it is in good shape, why part with it. Keep it as a backup if the other one does not start. I remember during one particularly bad storm (2+ feet), my MTD would not start. (I only had the one machine at the time.) I never felt so disheartened. Fortunately I was able to get it running and use it.

I always looked at it this way: One snowblower is good, two is better, and when you have three, you will end up here.
Haha I didn't really think of keeping two but I hear you. I have owned the 7524 since day 1. I agree makes no sense to fire sale it but maybe if Iist it in the days before a big storm is coming I can find someone with cash and who needs it more than I want to store it. Not sure what stupid money level is for a 7524 but would think 500+ would be pretty good money to me as I just paid 600 for the Deluxe 24. I think I only paid 750 plus tax for the 7524 back in 2004. Yeah I don't need to rush and fire sale it for 200 bucks or something. I think it is basically like a Classic 24 now, maybe not even. 195cc Tecumseh, hand operated tilt on the chute, no power steering, no light, so I would think there is a natural ceiling to how much a rational person would pay for it vs getting a Classic 24. So then the key is to find an irrational person in the days before the big storm and when Home Depot is already sold out haha
 

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Yeah, where I am in NJ, we usually only get a big storm once every few years. Usually just long enough that people forget about getting a snow blower until they see the weather forecast. I remember back in 2016 with winter storm Jonas, one of the weathermen in the area used the term "biblical" to describe the potential snowfall totals. That sent people scrambling.

I think that 500 would be a fair price if the machine is in real good condition. A basic name brand two stage blower would run you that much new, and probably not be as reliable. I personally like the machines that don't have all the bells and whistles. I prefer the metal rod in a rubber bushing to rotate the chute. Barring any major rust and the odd bushing replacement, that setup would probably still be working when my grandkids are using the blower decades from now.

I would never try rake somebody over the coals, but if somebody offered that much because they were so gung-ho, i would consider taking it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah, where I am in NJ, we usually only get a big storm once every few years. Usually just long enough that people forget about getting a snow blower until they see the weather forecast. I remember back in 2016 with winter storm Jonas, one of the weathermen in the area used the term "biblical" to describe the potential snowfall totals. That sent people scrambling.

I think that 500 would be a fair price if the machine is in real good condition. A basic name brand two stage blower would run you that much new, and probably not be as reliable. I personally like the machines that don't have all the bells and whistles. I prefer the metal rod in a rubber bushing to rotate the chute. Barring any major rust and the odd bushing replacement, that setup would probably still be working when my grandkids are using the blower decades from now.

I would never try rake somebody over the coals, but if somebody offered that much because they were so gung-ho, i would consider taking it.
I need to spend some time with the new toy and make sure everything is working and taken care of and then I will see how I feel about selling the old one as winter approaches. Since I will have some primer and orange Rust-Oleum paints too for touching up the rust on the new machine I will get the 7524 out there at the same time and touch it up too. I am also gonna order those Detroit Thermo poly skid shoes for the new D24 - they seem to get great reviews and may be preferable to the newer Ariens poly shoes with the metal inserts
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I was out taking another look and the prior owner really didn't have the shoes adjusted right. He used the scraper bar for all it's worth! He must have had a super clean driveway haha!

The issue is the bar is now worn down a lot and at an angle, where the front to back depth is 2" on left side and only 1.75" on right side.

I assume just better to invest the $25 in a brand new scraper bar along with my poly shoes and do it right? Or would you just try to loosen the bolts first and see if the bar can be adjusted so it is more level to the ground (and of course will not actually be scraping the ground a lot once I get the shoes adjusted up to 1/8"-1/4" or so). I guess given how worn and rusty it is after only 3 seasons of his use, I am leaning to just buying a new one that will stay in better shape going forward. That's a lot of steel scuffing the guy's driveway!
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