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Discussion Starter #1
I never had a single stage blower, or worked on one. Got this one for $10, figured if it wouldn't run, I could use the paddle for impeller mods. Model 38420, not sure on the year. PO said hasn't run in 4 or 5 years. But it looks pretty clean so far. Just missing a primer bulb and a key (I think I have one somewhere). The drive belt looks ok. The plug looks ok, I'll clean it, check out the fuel lines and filter, and try to start. Any tips on these machines before I try to fire it up?
 

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You can disconnect the ignition key wire to start it then smother the carb to stop to see if it runs.

You can use any 2 cycle oil to run it but if you are going to keep it you should run 2 cycle oil that meets the standard TC-W3 which applies to most outboard motors. It has to do with ash developing inside the engine.
 

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I have the Toro CCR 3000 and its always been dependable just like the older Toro S620 snow pup I own.

I mix up 2 cycle oil at 25 to 1 mix and use Sea Foam and I have never had any trouble.

New Primer bulb, new fuel hose, new spark plug gapped to 25 thousandths; The belts are an Toro or Oregon part and they are $18.00 USD plus tax.


Check the scraper and decide if you want to replace it or not.

Pop the old plug out after you drain the old fuel from the tank and the fuel bowl, reinstall the fuel bowl being careful with the gasket then yank on the starter a few times to make sure it spins with little effort and then put the new plug in after you gap it to 25 thousandths and pour in a little fresh fuel and it should start right up.

Changing the grooved drive belt is very easy; unbolt the cover and then pull the old belt off and then put the new one on and then reinstall the cover making sure the bolts for the cover are tight.

The paddles have a wear mark on them to tell you when its time for a new set of paddles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. Rigged a primer bulb, found a key, poured in a little fuel, but no go. Spark but no fuel. Pulled the bowl and some gunk, I think it sat a while. I will be rebuilding the carb.
 

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you'll have a nice single stage snowblower once you clean the carb
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think it sat for quite a while: the float shaft is deteriorated alot, I can't find the float spring (maybe the PO had messed with this a bit, or maybe replaced the carb in the past), the Welch plug just about fell out, and the float leaks. I'll see if my local dealer has all these parts. Or maybe he has another carb sitting around.

I've been running the carb in PineSol in the ultrasonic a few cycles, we'll see how clean that gets it.
 

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With all the problems that one has, I'd be thinking about replacing the carb with a $30 (or less) one off ebay...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the carb was questionable, but I found another used one, from the same motor in a MTD blower, at my local Toro dealer (for $10). It looked in good shape, he opened it, the bowl was almost spotless. He cleaned it up a bit. I will rebuild with the carb kit. I just need to figure out how to install a new choke position/stop spring (on order).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
update: the CCR2500 is up and running. I took the MTD carb, cleaned and rebuilt it, and changed over the choke stop/positioning spring. Started after only a few pulls, spit a bit of smoke at first, but now runs fine. RPM meter says around 3710 rpm. So for ~ $30 I have a clean running machine. The drive belt seems ok, we'll see how long it can last, I may just order one to have. And the auger paddles will probably need changing. But I really would like to run this in some snow before putting more $$ into it. That's probably not going to happen here this season anymore.
 

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update: the CCR2500 is up and running. I took the MTD carb, cleaned and rebuilt it, and changed over the choke stop/positioning spring. Started after only a few pulls, spit a bit of smoke at first, but now runs fine. RPM meter says around 3710 rpm. So for ~ $30 I have a clean running machine. The drive belt seems ok, we'll see how long it can last, I may just order one to have. And the auger paddles will probably need changing. But I really would like to run this in some snow before putting more $$ into it. That's probably not going to happen here this season anymore.
new paddles make a world of difference on these toro single stage machines.

if there is more than 1/4" between the paddle and the back of the housing i would. some i have seen are 1/2"-1" of a gap back there when you rotate it.

its probably a 15ft difference in throwing distance between worn and new paddles.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks Subie. I have no experience with these single stage machines. Do you guys buy the aftermarket paddles, or stick with OEM?
 
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