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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Nice. Like Ziggy mentioned, rare to see the hub cap logo there. Handles and tank straps, straight scraper bar.
There's $40 worth of bolts and scrap metal in that deflector mod anyway馃槀
yeah, it is in super condition (don't know about the engine, and it had an electric starter at one time). never seen the fuel tank so glossy pearl. and i looked at the scraper bar fasteners, and they have no wear, so the bar may have been put on and shortly after the machine was retired.
 

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1971 model, engine manufactured on Wednesday October 14th, 1970.......wish it a happy 51st birthday tomorrow馃嵒馃ぉ馃ぉ

That is a keeper for sure, nice that it is a 7HP
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
ok, update, and a little troubleshooting assistance needed.

when i picked up the blower, it rolled fine in neutral in to my carrier, and exited it fine too. during cleaning session, i decided to give it a non-running run though the speed points. i did not engage the left hand side handlebar lever. as i pushed it into first, i felt a clunky feeling. couldn't shift it anymore forward, so moved it back into neutral. now i am stuck not being able to shift, and can't fully squeeze the handle lever.

the friction wheel is stuck tight in the center of the traction disc. i can turn the disc with the pulley, but the friction wheel just squeaks.

the tractor body will rotate in a 360 on the wheels because the wheels will move in opposition; however, they will not move in the same direction. also, when i put in the differential knob, the wheels don't turn at all.

i think i've recalled this correctly! here are some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
immediate update: oh happy day! figured it out all by myself. shifting only using the gear stick jammed up the handle lever. so, i decided to simultaneously work the stick and lever, and it broke free. shifting proper now. everyone is off the hook.
 

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Yeah, on the early 10000 series, the left underside clutch lever is depressed to take it out of gear, just the opposite of todays blowers. It will drive itself in gear ... the neutral position has a tab underneath inside, which prevents the friction disc from engaging .... i.e. those machine need to be in neutral if your going to walk away while that machine is running. definitely not safe to todays standards, but I love them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
had a few extra minutes, and decided to button up the belly, hook up the fuel line, put a fresh spark plug in, pour in some fresh treated fuel, and see what happens. had to remember to hold the black spring knob in while priming the recoil. took several pulls, but then fired up. happy about that. took it out for a spin, nd it preformed very well (even with the somewhat worn friction disc).

on the carb side, the muffler is letting out a small but consistent puff. the throttle action works good, but has a dead zone where nothing much happens. overall the engine works pretty well.

the paint is in spectacular condition. the interior bucket paint is original, with little wear. i think it had an easy blowing life and was pampered.

i don't think the wheels were ever removed. i tried all the lugs, even with a breaker bar, and couldn't budge them. probably factory torque. sprayed the exposed bolt on the inside of the rims, try later.

the chrome handles are in A condition, cleaned up easy and shiny.

i don't have much experience with these machines, having seen most online, esp. scotts site, but this must be one of the best original condition (excluding mods, which work really well) 10k series blowers out there.
 

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The primer button only needs to be used in very cold conditions. Manual says below 10 F, but I have only used it a couple of times over the years in very cold conditions -20 or -30.

Just put choke lever to full choke when starting from cold.
 

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Yeah, that style, and especially the centrifugal clutch drive system that was optional on the 10M60D, are flawless, zero turn drive systems.

I would be removing that funky, elongated directional cap floppy thing, and remove those grass tires and put on some nice XTrac ... oh and all my machines have poly skids, mostly the roller type. .... but hey, that's just me ... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
so, after a much needed oil change, also removed the wheels, cleaned the rims and the area behind the wheels. then finally unbolted the shear pins to see how well the augers spun. well, they moved as smoothly as fred astaire and ginger rogers around the dance floor! no frozen augers here, thank god.

coming to the end of this cleaning overhaul. not planning on removing the engine or splitting the unit at this time (to get to additional cleaning areas).
 
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