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So I’ve got a Troy-Built Storm 2410 model. It did not come with a light or any other powered options but I wanted to try to put and LED light on it. While taking off all the covers looking for an extra wire coming from the stator I found that there were two extra wires. Those wires went to the little plastic key switch. The key switch just shorts one of the wires to ground when the key is not installed. Very simple setup. So I took those two wires and hooked them to my LED light and fired it up. It flashed as expected and I was excited that I could then continue the process of the light install. So I then got the rectifier, switch, and capacitors so that it wouldn’t flicker. Installed all of those correctly however when I turned the light on, the blower shuts off. I’ve tried all different sorts of wiring configurations but nothing seems to work. Has anyone tried to do this using the plastic key wires?
 

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Which actual Model is your 2410? There are a bunch of them and some had the leads for headlight and hand warmers even though the machine itself didn't have either:

2410 (31AM62N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2008
2410 (31AM62N2766) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2008
2410 (31AM62N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2009
2410 (31AM62N2766) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2009
2410 (31AS62N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2010
2410 (31AS62N2766) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2010
2410 (31AS62N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2011
2410 (31AS62N2766) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2011
2410 (31AS63N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2011
2410 (31AS62N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2012
2410 (31AS63N2766) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2012
2410 (31AS62N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2013
2410 (31AS62N2766) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2013
2410 (31AS63N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2013
2410 (31AS63N2766) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2013
2410 (31AS62N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2014
2410 (31AS62N2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2015
2410 (31BS6BN2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2016
2410 (31BS6BN2711) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2017
2410 (31AS6BN2723) Troy-Bilt Storm 24" 2018
 

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Rolling out the welcome mat for your first post!!! Welcome to the SBF from Gettysburg!
 

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I don't think you can use the wire that is connected to the key, the one that shorts to ground to kill the engine. Try using just the other wire and ground to run the LED.
 

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Welcome to SBF Wisconsin boy. Did you put a voltage meter on any of the leads looking at the amount and type voltage (AC\DC) coming out? I agree with Norwegian, the one wire used to kill the motor through the ignition switch will not work. You HAVE to identify the other two leads.
 

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:welcome: to SBF Wisconsinboy


I don't think you can use the wire that is connected to the key, the one that shorts to ground to kill the engine. Try using just the other wire and ground to run the LED.
You can not use a wire that leads to the key. That wire is made to short out the ignition so the machine can't be started. It's not from the stator but from the ignition coil module. In photo you can see a tab (spade connector) at the top center. You need to reinstall that wire to the key or if you cut off the end repair it to reattach or tape it up and put it out of the way. You should still be able to shut off the engine with the throttle lever but if it was my machine I'd put it back.




I have a 2410 and it came with the two leads that stick out over the starter and they are labeled light and hand warmer.
A photo of the other wire you're working with would be helpful. Was it connected to the key also or was it hanging there unconnected ?? What kind of end connection did it have ??

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Discussion Starter #7
The model number is 31BS6BN2711. I am on the forum on my phone and can’t figure out how to post pictures from it but I’m working on it. I have to tear apart all the covers again and when I get that done I will try to post some pictures to give you guys a better idea of what I’m working with. The two wires that are coming from the stator and go to the plastic key switch will give me the power I need because when hooked up straight to the LED the light flashes but when it’s hooked to the rectifier to complete the same task, it doesn’t work. I’ve tried branching one of them to both ac prongs on the rectifier as well and that did not work.
 

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are you sure your hooking things up right? both power wires off the stator should not effect the engine running or prevent it from running.
 

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The model number is 31BS6BN2711. I am on the forum on my phone and can’t figure out how to post pictures from it but I’m working on it. I have to tear apart all the covers again and when I get that done I will try to post some pictures to give you guys a better idea of what I’m working with. The two wires that are coming from the stator and go to the plastic key switch will give me the power I need because when hooked up straight to the LED the light flashes but when it’s hooked to the rectifier to complete the same task, it doesn’t work. I’ve tried branching one of them to both ac prongs on the rectifier as well and that did not work.
It looks like that model is from 2016 and likely the original engine would not have a stator if the machine was not equipped with a light or handwarmers. The wire coming from the key switch does not go to a stator; it goes to the ignition coil as previously mentioned by others. If your engine has a stator, it will have a pigtail like the one @Kiss4aFrog showed you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It looks like that model is from 2016 and likely the original engine would not have a stator if the machine was not equipped with a light or handwarmers. The wire coming from the key switch does not go to a stator; it goes to the ignition coil as previously mentioned by others. If your engine has a stator, it will have a pigtail like the one @Kiss4aFrog showed you.
Yeah I realized that today. Thank you. I was thrown off when the two wires hooked directly to the LED made it flash and it still ran but then later tested it and they only had 3.5vac (which is enough to power the LED). The quick rise and fall of the voltage wasn’t enough to shut the machine down but when switched to DC and grounded it shorted the circuit and acted like it should. Do you know if that engine could have an aftermarket stator installed on it? If not, out of principle for this taking me so long to figure out I think I’ll drill and mount a speed sensor and then just regulate the voltage from that.
 

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First things first, what is the engines ID numbers ?

One wire goes to the key, have you figured out where the other wire originates, coil or stator ?

Since mine has a stator I'm guess you should be able to fit one to your's also if there isn't one there. IMHO You'd want to make sure there are mounts for one before you get too involved in searching for parts.

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if the engine doesn't have a stator it likely isn't worth putting one on. probably cheaper to go battery powered or even just mount a nice led flashlight on the machine. would do about the same. just have to charge a battery occasionally.
 

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but if they are not putting stators on the engine wouldn't it also be possible that they are not installing magnets inside the flywheel also? i would guess it is a way of making the engine cheaper. if you have to replace a flywheel along with installing a coil is it really worth it? i know older engines use to come with it whether you had lights/handle bar warmers or not
 

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but if they are not putting stators on the engine wouldn't it also be possible that they are not installing magnets inside the flywheel also? i would guess it is a way of making the engine cheaper. if you have to replace a flywheel along with installing a coil is it really worth it? i know older engines use to come with it whether you had lights/handle bar warmers or not
That is definitely the other half of the equation. You need a stator and the bosses on the block to mount it and a flywheel with magnets. It can get pretty pricey if you have to replace the flywheel on top of purchasing the stator.
When I need a light and I'm using a machine without one I've found the rechargeable LED headlights to be really handy. Rechargeable is the way to go.
Problem is I tried to order a second one and now they don't carry that model anymore. I got mine for $25 and now they're slightly different and $35 or 45. Lots to choose from on Amazon, Ebay, big box store ...

Photo of the one I have.
 

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you could always upgrade a cheaper older style flashlight with a new led bulb. i bought a led for $4 from ebay. 3w led bulb. pretty impressed. you can get them for 3v version which is what most cheap flashlights would require but i went with the 4-12v version and stuck 2 1850 cells in it. you can also get 5w 6-24v led which would be interesting to see running. this option would be about $5-15.

another option that is a bit more expensive would be mount some 12-24v led work lights like most people use and use a drill battery or a custom made lithium ion battery. the 12-24v should be good for drill batteries. 3 lithium ion cells would likely be good enough to do the job but 6 would be better to get a longer run time between charges. i would guess you might be able to do this for about $15-30
 
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