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Discussion Starter #1
here is the new to me ariens st270 932001 ? h35-45503M ser, 8158B

so far my question concerns the throttle/governor connection, it is a diaphram carb. The machine runs this way and will throttle too far up if I move the speed control lever too far, moving it to lower the speed does nothing unless I jiggle the linkage to help the carb spring the throttle down. does it look like it is correct? Do you think I need a new speed control assembly? I found one on ebay?

Thanks for looking, TYIA for answers suggestions.

ps
I am only mechanically inclined enough to get myself into trouble!
 

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First off, clean off all the crap on the carb so that the springs can work - the gov may well start working as well. When you throttle up, the carb opens to accelerate, and once it hits speed, the gov/springs pull it back, and can't work if dirty/sticky. All the throttle/gov parts should move with almost zero resistance, and sometimes on older engines, the throttle shaft/spring will gum up, but spray carb cleaner takes care of it quickly.
 

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Welcome to SBF Joe. Looking at the ebay listing item, your spring looks to be stretched out and will effect rpm's. The arrow in the picture is pointing to the governed high speed adjustment screw. Turning the screw in or out will raise or lower the rpm's when the throttle is in the fast position. I "believe" turning the screw out will lower the engine speed.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ariens-ST270-Tecumseh-H35-Intake-and-Governor-Speed-Control-Assembly-32128A/152988532132?hash=item239ed3bda4:g:SMwAAOSwIM9a14zb
 

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Discussion Starter #5
just as an update,
the control does nothing until it is moved about 3/4 of the way toward fast, which I suppose is good because a quick rpm check with the voltmeter reads that rpm to be 3600... this position has the carb only slightly open. so I do have "control" just not a full range of motion with the controller. And i can over rev the motor with it, turning the screw did nothing I noticed.
I guess I just need to wait for snow to see if it will work, thanks again!
 

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@Joe,


I would pick up some new rims (preferably split rims, makes it easier installing tire and tube) and a set of SnowHogs or XTrac for that baby if its a keeper.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@Joe,


I would pick up some new rims (preferably split rims, makes it easier installing tire and tube) and a set of SnowHogs or XTrac for that baby if its a keeper.
i know nothing about any of that, I need more details SnowHogs is a tire brand?
 

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i know nothing about any of that, I need more details SnowHogs is a tire brand?
In @oneacer post with the two tires the left is the Xtrac and the right is the snowhog. I have used both and they are good in the snow and ice, perhaps the Xtrac are better in my area. Xtrac is produced by different tire labels with the same tread pattern, mine are stock on Ariens (Cub Cadet use Carlisle xtrac) and I prefer them to the snowhogs because they are smoother running. The deep tread blocks are closer together and cover more of the tire width. They are also directional. If you need chains then the snowhogs take a regular cross tread chain while the xtrac have very deep lugs so the chain must be able to stay on top of tread.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't have a clue about chains. how do you even fit the tire and rims, measuring what's on there?
 

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I don't have a clue about chains. how do you even fit the tire and rims, measuring what's on there?
The tire sidewall gives the tire size, chains are generally made to fit the tire size. You want a snug fit so the chains don't move around. The chains have a locking link on each side of the tire to take up any slack and prevent slip on the tire. Easy to install on a snowblower just lay out the chains with the locking link at back, and move the wheels to about the middle. Wrap the chain up to the top of the tire where it should stay. Take the locking link and engage the end of chain and fold it back and lock it. Repear for other side of wheel and other wheel. It sometimes helps to reduce air pressure to synch the lock without bending it. Put air back in tire and confirm snug fit.

Chains come in different types, the most common is where the cross chain directly connects the one side of chain to the other side. This works fine on tires with small lugs or no lugs like turf tires. The other type forms a pattern over the tread blocks so the chain does not get lost down in the deep lug treads (like Xtrac tires). The pattern is generally a variation of an X where the cross chain is diagonal across the tire. The cross chain can be attached to a shaped piece to give more bite and/or have squared chunks of steal welded to the links for more penetration into ice.

Current snow tires on snowblowers don't really need chains for any situation including ice, since their grip is outstanding. As slopes increase then chains become more important. In my limited experience, chains are rough riding and to be avoided if at all possible.

Good luck.
 
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