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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to replace the auger belt I assume you have to open it up like a clamshell which I remove the top of the belt first before opening. What else needs to be removed and idlers or guards ??
 

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Looking to replace the auger belt I assume you have to open it up like a clamshell which I remove the top of the belt first before opening. What else needs to be removed and idlers or guards ??
Maybe this will help you?

 

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If you don't have the room to remove like he does you may have to loosen the bucket up and remove it from the bucket side.
See if you have the room like in the video first.
 

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if you have a model number.. use it to try to find a parts diagram.. youll be able to see an exploded view of what your machine is made of.. which should be usefull to figure out whatcha gotta do ;) but the above video gets the gist of it.. different machine will have a different way of accomplishing it..
 
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Looking to replace the auger belt I assume you have to open it up like a clamshell which I remove the top of the belt first before opening. What else needs to be removed and idlers or guards ??
My old Craftsman is very similar looking to the one in the YouTube video. It's an 11hp, 30 inch. My manual talks about removing the bottom plate, but that isn't necessary. I did the clam shell method and it was easy...20 minutes or so. First removed the plug wire, throttle down in kill position. Disconnect the chute adjusting rod. Belt cover off. Flip the belt guide rod out of the way. Slide the auger idler pulley all the way out. Auger belt off of engine pulley. My machine has three bolts each side holding the bucket to the frame. I removed the top two bolt on each side and just loosened the bottom bolt that engages the slot. Yours might be different. Leave the bolts in the slot so you can pivot (clam shell) open. Only open it as far as you need to to get the belt off of the big pulley. Be careful not to let it come apart...it's difficult to get back together by yourself. Get the new belt on the big pulley and hold it in place on the big pulley as you close the clam shell. I wired the auger drive lever down to move the brake rod back out of the way. Bolts all back in and tight. Wire off of the drive lever. Then slide the belt on the engine pulley. I walked it on with the pull starter. Adjust the guide rod and idler pulley and test it with the cover still off. Make sure the auger stops when disengaged, but doesn't smoke the belt when idling and disengaged. My manual calls for 1/2 of belt deflection at midway point with moderate pressure applied with the auger lever engaged. Not very specific...it's a feel thing. Getting the idler pulley in the right place acts like a second belt guide rod (when disengaged) like many machines have. The idler pulley also increases belt tension as you move it inward. You may need to adjust the cable too. I used a Gates Powerated belt as my previous cheap Amazon belt failed early. Working great. Good luck
Looking to replace the auger belt I assume you have to open it up like a clamshell which I remove the top of the belt first before opening. What else needs to be removed and idlers or guards ??
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
How much slack should be on the belt when not engaged. I noticed mine has quite a bit . It lasted 8 years currently.

I had to remove the bottom plate. All the clam shell bolts were just spinning on be so had to get a wrench on the other side from the inside of the machine.
They didn't have a lock washer and washer on the head of the bolt on which was on the Inside of the machine . Would having these prevent it from spinning ??

I ll try to read the model number to get the proper belt . It's not too legible.
 

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How much slack should be on the belt when not engaged. I noticed mine has quite a bit . It lasted 8 years currently.

I had to remove the bottom plate. All the clam shell bolts were just spinning on be so had to get a wrench on the other side from the inside of the machine.
They didn't have a lock washer and washer on the head of the bolt on which was on the Inside of the machine . Would having these prevent it from spinning ??

I ll try to read the model number to get the proper belt . It's not too legible.
Oh...My machine has welded nuts inside the frame. All I had to do was remove the bolts. Sounds like you did it the only way possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I ll post a pic of mine
I had to remove the bottom plate. All the clam shell bolts were just spring on be so had to get a wrench on the other side....

They didn't have a lock washer and washer on the head of the bolt on which was on the Inside of the machine . Would having these prevent it from spinning ??
I guess the welded nuts is an update to prevent my issue 🙃 thx !!
 
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