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Discussion Starter #21
Grounding any of those wires will kill the engine. With that mess of bad connections and tape repairs it's no wonder it wont shut off. More than likely that this bit of creative repair is why it won't shut off when lowering your throttle. There should be an eyelet and a screw at this connection.


View attachment 168926
What parts do i need to pick up to repair this? the wire that went up behind the cover just fell out.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
what is behind the two parts that are wrapped with electrical tape?

do you have a voltmeter? continuity tester?

if so, remove the wire that is connected to the throttle switch,

put the throttle all the way down to the bottom,

now test for continuity from the wire terminal on the throttle switch to a ground point on the engine,

if the switch is functioning as it should, you should have a continuity reading
Behind the electrical tape was just the wires taped together. The wire from behind the cover just fell out when i grabbed it.
 

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I have to agree with others, take it to someone to rewire the grounding circuit. To do it right the flywheel needs to come off and if the OP doesn't have the tools (including a flywheel puller) it will be frustrating. It shouldn't cost much as it's just a simple grounding circuit.
 

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do you see the wire coming out of the engine with the black tape on it?

when that wire is grounded, the engine will stop/stall

you can accomplish that in any way you want,

you can even install a toggle switch to shut it off if you want

something like this.....


connect the red wire to power, the ground wire to load

its simple
 

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toro 928 ohxe 38801,
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you can make your own from a length of 14 gauge wire with crimp on ends just match the old one as to how it looks and where and how it connects you will have to remove the flywheel cover to access the coil where it will have one push on connector ,
 

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Could anybody walk me through taking the cover off and wiring up? The guy I took it too said it would be atleast 100 and the whole engine would have to come off in oder to access...
 

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Find someone else, that's way out of line, I've done a few for people for about $20 in the past. Do you have a flywheel puller, a socket set or set of wrenches? How about a crimping tool and solderless connectors? Are you mechanically inclined? Those are some of the things you'll need to replace the grounding connection.
 

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No flywheel puller, I have socket set and wrenches, somewhat mechanically inclined no crimping tool or connectors though.
 

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removing the flywheel cover should be simple,

normally there are only about 4 bolts around the side of the cover, and you just pull it off,

once you have that removed, you should be able to see your coil,

you shouldn't need to remove the flywheel itself,

take more pics of your engine, a pic of the whole engine from the rear (standing behind the snowblower)
 

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removing the flywheel cover should be simple,

normally there are only about 4 bolts around the side of the cover, and you just pull it off,

once you have that removed, you should be able to see your coil,

you shouldn't need to remove the flywheel itself,

take more pics of your engine, a pic of the whole engine from the rear (standing behind the snowblower)
I will do that when I get home. Thanks, I just can't throw 100+ bucks to the guy in town if its not that hard to do on my own. Ill update around 4 central time.
 

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Here's the short answer. The grounding wire usually has a ringlet on the end and fits under #8 in the schematic. The wire goes behind the shield to the carburetor side of the engine. Probably a Y there with 2 leads, one goes to the small switch on the throttle so when the throttle is closed it will close the circuit and ground out the points, that may have a spade connector or a screw on the switch. The other lead will go to some form of keyed switch that acts as an on-off switch for the motor.
Like I said, I like to replace it all if I have any issue of the insulation breaking down on the wire.
Here's some motor pictures that might help it to make sense. They are not all of the same engine at the same stage so take that into account.

169068
169069
169070
 

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remove the 3 big bolts on top of the engine holding the flywheel cover on (one of them is also holding the gas tank mount bracket)

then look down the sides of the cover, there is probably two more of the same sized bolts (one on each side of the engine)

after you remove those 5 bolts, you should be able to pull that entire cover off the engine,

you will need to disconnect the primer bulb hose after you pull the cover loose,

you will also need to unscrew and disconnect the throttle linkage to the carb, that is mounted on the side of the flywheel cover
 

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toro 928 ohxe 38801,
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looks like a older engine with points which means pulling the flywheel off, the coil is under the shrouding bolted down by head bolts and lower 2 bolts , and the flywheel , which trying to read between the Ops lines is " possibly" above his mechanical ability . and for sure tools he has at hand
cost wise lets remember he asked a shop so 100 bucks is one hour labor plus parts
 

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looks like a older engine with points which means pulling the flywheel off, the coil is under the shrouding bolted down by head bolts and lower 2 bolts , and the flywheel
if the "kill switch" wire is connected properly to the coil, then the OP can just splice new wire to it where it is accessible without removing the flywheel
 
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