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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone


I purchased last year a Toro 1028 OXHE, an awesome machine. As many drivers, I replaced the original halogen projector by two LED lights, and I purchased a big rocker switch to control them, just to avoid to blind the car drivers on my street. I purchased a stud terminal strip and I rewired the snowblower to complete the job.


I noticed the heated grips are wired in serial from factory; I re-wired them into parallel circuit. Since, they are much hotter than before, I cannot stand my hands on the grips after 5 minutes. Wired in serial or parallel, they are supposed to pull the same amperage and then give off the same amount of heat.


Does it have an influence or not, the way you wire your grips?
 

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Hi everyone


I purchased last year a Toro 1028 OXHE, an awesome machine. As many drivers, I replaced the original halogen projector by two LED lights, and I purchased a big rocker switch to control them, just to avoid to blind the car drivers on my street. I purchased a stud terminal strip and I rewired the snowblower to complete the job.


I noticed the heated grips are wired in serial from factory; I re-wired them into parallel circuit. Since, they are much hotter than before, I cannot stand my hands on the grips after 5 minutes. Wired in serial or parallel, they are supposed to pull the same amperage and then give off the same amount of heat.


Does it have an influence or not, the way you wire your grips?
Yes it makes a huge difference... You add the ohms together in series..in parallel you would divide by two in this case considering they would be identical.
That would be one fourth the resistance of stock...you need to put them back in series as they were/ as that circuit will try to draw four times as much current as designed..I expect the only thing saving it is the system under the flywheel can't provide the load and has a large voltage drop as a result.



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Was something like this I thought could be the problem. But what a difference! In serial, heat is poor, so low I ain't sure it was running. What if I add a resistance on the line?
 

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Was something like this I thought could be the problem. But what a difference! In serial, heat is poor, so low I ain't sure it was running. What if I add a resistance on the line?
You could...however most resisters are rated for very low wattage.
What is the current resistance of a grip by itself seperated from the rest of the circuit?

Also the engine needs to run wide open to get the benefit of heated grips...Was the engine running wide open with the grips in the stock configuration?



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Discussion Starter #5
I'll measure the resistance tomorrow; if I can add on-line a potentiometer this could solve this high heat / no heat issue; set it at level you need and it's alright. And my engine always run wide open (rabbit level).
 

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I'll measure the resistance tomorrow; if I can add on-line a potentiometer this could solve this high heat / no heat issue; set it at level you need and it's alright. And my engine always run wide open (rabbit level).
I wouldn't get to carried away ...aim perhaps just a little over in wattage compared to what is was stock..I doubt the system will live long under the flywheel in an overloaded condition.



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Discussion Starter #7
3.5 ohms each grip. About the overload, it is truly possible that the circuit could be overload with this configuration. The halogen lamp OE in the projector is 37.5 watts and with the right mounting, this circuit drags 4.5 amps, while the grips in a parallel mounting raises the amperage to 6 amps, according to the voltage supply of the generator at 12 volts (right?). I replaced the halogen lamp with 2 LED lamps and the total of both is 32 watts; I won some miliamps.



Is this generator able to supply 6 amps easily or am I already over the limit? That's the question.
 

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3.5 ohms each grip. About the overload, it is truly possible that the circuit could be overload with this configuration. The halogen lamp OE in the projector is 37.5 watts and with the right mounting, this circuit drags 4.5 amps, while the grips in a parallel mounting raises the amperage to 6 amps, according to the voltage supply of the generator at 12 volts (right?). I replaced the halogen lamp with 2 LED lamps and the total of both is 32 watts; I won some miliamps.



Is this generator able to supply 6 amps easily or am I already over the limit? That's the question.
That's is good question..I ended up with a little under 7 amps.
5 amps is what most people say they are rated at

Go to an auto parts supply store and get a ballast resistor for an old dodge... Just pick an old random one ... Say 69 Plymouth fury..if they ask.
Wire that in series to your grips wired in parallel.. it will give you an extra ohm or so and put you close to the five amp mark

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With that much draw you’ll burnout the stator
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finally decided to leave it as it was built; could add a potentiometer and a resistance on the grip power line to secure, but at the end it won't worth the trouble. Used my snowblower tonight by -20, with a pair of workgloves and these low heat grips and it was done. Will keep my two LED lights, on this side I have a gain. Thanks everyone.
 

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Finally decided to leave it as it was built; could add a potentiometer and a resistance on the grip power line to secure, but at the end it won't worth the trouble. Used my snowblower tonight by -20, with a pair of workgloves and these low heat grips and it was done. Will keep my two LED lights, on this side I have a gain. Thanks everyone.
I have some insulated rubber gloves that I received as a gift...So far so good
Think this is them.
Could probably find em on Amazon for less.


https://www.northernsafety.com/Product/32036?gclid=CjwKCAiAhJTyBRAvEiwAln2qB-2yN-r_9wLquIZYF3dimj3Npxsi7u-meT1mmL1YMGPwT9e4-bXFmRoCXSsQAvD_BwE

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