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Discussion Starter #2
If you don't clean the tank AND change the tank to carb line , the new carb is getting crap in it too. If you did swap the supply side and are still getting bog under load, I'd look at the valves or head gasket:wink2:


Hey jtclays thanks for your response.

I think I should revise my issue to intermittent operation and stalling under load.

Prior to putting on the new oem carb # 640039 from dealer I did below:

Replaced fuel line
Flushed gas tank out with IPA and a small amount of gas.
Installed new spark plug

I looked at the valves through the spark plug socket and there didn’t appear to be much carbon build up on the valves. The valves still look silverish not black.


Compression tested at 60lbs., which I understand is normal for this engine as it opens a valve to let the motor kick over easier upon the initial pull.
https://imgur.com/gallery/R3l3Y

Unscrewed gas cap during stall to check for bad gas cap. One post I read here suggested checking this.

Video of my red headed step child’s behavior:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rpnDgRAnuC8tCol3JdFyoKqAwLivtP9u

I’m starting to think some dirt or leftover metal shaving in the new carb are causing a blockage. After putting the new carb on I’m guessing it ran fine for about 4-5 hours before I started having an issue, which happen to be the same time as our biggest snow fall of the year.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.



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Solsun, You mention two different carb numbers, but assuming typos you got the 640349 on there (you typed 640039 in one post). That kind of farting and the 60 compression would have me checking the head gasket and valve clearance, but 60 can be be OK. The way it is intermittent in the "trouble in paradise" video sure seems electrical, though. Have you had the recoil shroud off? It may be worth it to check for a bad flywheel key for giggles, but look for a nest or something playing around with the kill wire from the coil. Usually if it's a bad head gasket or long valve it's consistent. IE it runs vrrrroooom and soon as it hits a load it dies . Your's is all over the place missing. I've had some that had a bad ground setup for the key plug (plastic insert one) you have, but they wouldn't ground out to shut down. I've seen some that the wiring at the handlebars for the key "switch" (actual key in a cylinder) was bad and caused intermittent grounding. Best test is to pull the wire from the inside of the recoil housing leading to a spade under the carb heater box and wrap it in electrical tape. Then start the machine and see if you have the same farting. You can stall out the machine with the choke if it does indeed run fine, or take some pliers and pop off the spark plug boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Ariens ST824LE for Refurbishment . . .

Solsun, You mention two different carb numbers, but assuming typos you got the 640349 on there (you typed 640039 in one post). That kind of farting and the 60 compression would have me checking the head gasket and valve clearance, but 60 can be be OK. The way it is intermittent in the "trouble in paradise" video sure seems electrical, though. Have you had the recoil shroud off? It may be worth it to check for a bad flywheel key for giggles, but look for a nest or something playing around with the kill wire from the coil. Usually if it's a bad head gasket or long valve it's consistent. IE it runs vrrrroooom and soon as it hits a load it dies . Your's is all over the place missing. I've had some that had a bad ground setup for the key plug (plastic insert one) you have, but they wouldn't ground out to shut down. I've seen some that the wiring at the handlebars for the key "switch" (actual key in a cylinder) was bad and caused intermittent grounding. Best test is to pull the wire from the inside of the recoil housing leading to a spade under the carb heater box and wrap it in electrical tape. Then start the machine and see if you have the same farting. You can stall out the machine with the choke if it does indeed run fine, or take some pliers and pop off the spark plug boot.


jtclays,
You’re correct, I did have a typo on the carb part #, it is 640348 as you’ve pointed out.

Ground issue does make sense.

This machine is new to me as of Jan., I haven’t removed the recoil shroud. Tonight I did remove the recoil housing as suggested.

Flywheel has a considerable amount of rust. The ground wire was firmly on the ignition, I removed it as suggested. I took a few pictures: https://imgur.com/a/lUxYQ

Is the rust an issue? I assume it’s not helping and should sand it off.

It was midnight when finished getting everything taken apart, so I didn’t get a chance to fire it up. Tomorrow evening I’ll give it a shot and let you know the result.

Thanks for your help here



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Discussion Starter #5
Solsun, You mention two different carb numbers, but assuming typos you got the 640349 on there (you typed 640039 in one post). That kind of farting and the 60 compression would have me checking the head gasket and valve clearance, but 60 can be be OK. The way it is intermittent in the "trouble in paradise" video sure seems electrical, though. Have you had the recoil shroud off? It may be worth it to check for a bad flywheel key for giggles, but look for a nest or something playing around with the kill wire from the coil. Usually if it's a bad head gasket or long valve it's consistent. IE it runs vrrrroooom and soon as it hits a load it dies . Your's is all over the place missing. I've had some that had a bad ground setup for the key plug (plastic insert one) you have, but they wouldn't ground out to shut down. I've seen some that the wiring at the handlebars for the key "switch" (actual key in a cylinder) was bad and caused intermittent grounding. Best test is to pull the wire from the inside of the recoil housing leading to a spade under the carb heater box and wrap it in electrical tape. Then start the machine and see if you have the same farting. You can stall out the machine with the choke if it does indeed run fine, or take some pliers and pop off the spark plug boot.


jtclays,

Looks like I owe you a few beers! The engine runs good after removing that ground wire at the ignition. In fact it wouldn’t stall when I tried choking it, I just closed the gas line.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1kI5Vi3pBD-M1ZC0oJs5ChLVCXKw0wI-_

Now I just have have to test each wire to see which one is faulty. I guess I could just remove the key portion in full as I can kill it by moving the throttle all the way down.

Thanks again.


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Discussion Starter #9
Solsun, found the "moved" thread. Rust on the unfinished flywheel is usually never a problem. Just from looking at the pics I probably would loosen the coil mounts and reset them. Loosen pull up on the coil and stick a business card in the gap, rotate the flywheel until the magnets draw the coil down snug evenly. Tighten the mount bolts, rotate the flywheel magnet away from the poles and remove the card. Done for 30 years:grin:

Thanks. The gap to the coil is actually still pretty tight but I’ll double check it.

Re: grounding wire
I agree, it’s probably the wire connected to the key. Could I by pass the kill key by just disconnecting the wire from where it attaches to the throttle? My throttle also has a kill/ground position.


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