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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I picked it up relatively cheaply today because it had a seized engine, but I am hoping it is seized up due to inactivity and not engine failure.

It came with the 4-lug 8" wheels/electric starter.

This will probably be a long-term project for next winter. I have dumped quite a bit of PB Blaster in the combustion chamber and I *think* it wants to turn. I'll probably wait a couple of days before turning the starter cup nut.

The previous owner stored it outside under a tarp and the throttle control cable was seized and the auger lever was also seized. I was able to free up the auger lever and the throttle control cable will be sourced cheaply enough.

If I can't free up the engine, I'll probably go the Predator route again(the engine mounting studs are already long enough and the chute crank rod with u-joints appear to be more accomodating than the 10000 series).

I'll take better pictures once I start the project, but here's the as-is photo:

 

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Hopefully it wasn't sitting due to a blown gearbox. The ST's were prone to that failure. Am working on one right now. MH
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, guys. The cylinder was stuck to the point that the flywheel nut was being tightened/loosened if i went more than 30 degrees in either direction. I kept at it and 30 degrees became 45 degrees and then 90 degrees and eventually, it turned over without the nut being turned and the engine puked out the pb blaster/engine oil concoction out of the carb. I can now turn it over with the recoil starter.

i used a leftover partial carb rebuild kit to change out the bowl nut washer/idle mixture screw o-ring/inlet needle/seat/clip. The carb overall didn't look too bad.

I'm putting new fuel lines in it today and once I change the oil, I'll see if I can get it started.

The first priority is clearing the driveway of another 11" of snow we had overnight, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
By drilling out the rivets that fasten the "fast-slow" cover of a 10000 series throttle lever, I was able to use it as a replacement on the 924040(I had to trim the plastic sheath by about 2 inches on the carburetor end of the cable:




It's not very pretty near the lever end but it works:



I found some screws that were the right size. They screwed in very tightly into the holes vacated by the rivets that I don't need nuts to hold them in place

 

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Discussion Starter #11
I wanted to change the oil before i tried starting it, but when I loosened the drain plug tonight, the drain tube was packed with ice. I heated up a screwdriver and melted the ice but there's still no flow of oil.

It doesn't help that it's -1 degs fahrenheit right now and my garage is well below freezing.

The tires need tubes and I've taken the wheels and tires off of the snowblower(will be visting my local shop in the morning that will install new tubes for $15 each), but other than that, i've put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I used a heat gun to slowly warm up the block and i got black oil+water to drain out :)

I might have to change the oil one more time if I can get it to start afterwards.

The bad news is that when I tried to start it, it would crank but would not fire. Upon removing the spark plug and grounding it against the engine, there was no spark when I pulled the recoil starter. I installed a known good magneto and installed it but I still get no spark. For the sake of getting a running machine, I think I will proceed with the Predator purchase.

The good news is that that the wheels and tires are back from the tire shop with new tubes installed and the machine is otherwise complete, just waiting for an engine that will start.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Has anyone looked at the Tecumseh 10hp engines(part number LH358XA-15493) with the tapered shaft from various "surplus" engine suppliers as a possible replacement? There is an ebay seller that machines a crankshaft adapter for a tapered shaft to convert it to a 1" crank: Crank Shaft Adapter Taper to 1" inch Generator Pressure Washer Engine Bushing | eBay

I've seen the engines priced as low as $140 with shipping. $60 for the crank adapter and I'd have to supply my own gas tank(I have a spare tank+brackets that should bolt up), I'd then be looking at a 10hp engine for $200.
 

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Has anyone looked at the Tecumseh 10hp engines(part number LH358XA-15493) with the tapered shaft from various "surplus" engine suppliers as a possible replacement? There is an ebay seller that machines a crankshaft adapter for a tapered shaft to convert it to a 1" crank: Crank Shaft Adapter Taper to 1" inch Generator Pressure Washer Engine Bushing | eBay

I've seen the engines priced as low as $140 with shipping. $60 for the crank adapter and I'd have to supply my own gas tank(I have a spare tank+brackets that should bolt up), I'd then be looking at a 10hp engine for $200.
First I'd hesitate to try and run that 10 hp if I found a block of ice in the crankcase, that baby's got to come apart for cleaning /inspection.

You may have corrosion or rust on the bearing surfaces, no way to clear that without a teardown really and the rust would make short work of crank and other bearing surfaces if you tried resulting in a rebuild situation anyways.

There's plenty of straight shaft replacement engines out there, if I was to drop any cash on that machine I wouldn't go for a new old stock Tecumseh or briggs, or a tapered shaft engine with or without adapter, rather get a "harbor freight" predator or in Canada a powerfist replacement winter engine with fuel tank. You'll only spend a few dollars more if you're patient and end up with a solid machine for many years to come.
 

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I was under the impression that different engines had different tapers as well. I would be worried that the adapter would not fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've reviewed the pulley layout and it looks like even with the crankshaft adapter, I won't be able to line up the drive pulley correctly unless i relocate the engine mount studs.

I'm moving forward with the Predator 212cc install, I have the 3/4" to 1" crank adapter so that I can reuse the original pulley and OE-size belts
 

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You will have to remove the engine mounting studs and use bolts in the "other" holes in the forward engine mounting position if going to the 212 predator. I might have the same engine available. PM if interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I managed to break the tack welds on the engine mount studs with a framing hammer and used stainless bolts/washers/locking nuts to mount the 212cc.

(sorry about the messy garage, guys)



I called it a day after putting oil in the engine and the adjustable carb jet

I'll probably try starting it tomorrow and let the engine run for a bit to break it in.

I did notice, though, that the bucket is hoplelessly rusted out, so I'd like to find a replacement bucket sometime this year as a spring/summer project.
 

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I managed to break the tack welds on the engine mount studs with a framing hammer and used stainless bolts/washers/locking nuts to mount the 212cc.

When I knocked my studs out I used GOOP marine adhesive (it's sort of like a JB Weld type of product) to reinstall them in the forward holes. I held them tight to the tractor with a washer and nut and then the next day they were solidly "welded" on. I cleaned up the threads on the studs, removed the nuts and then installed the predator engine.

Looks like everything lined up well on your machine. Nice job.
 
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