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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, well besides the Cub Cadet 528SWE rebuild endeavor I embarked upon, I ended up coming across a deal too good to pass up.

So I ended up acquiring a Simplicity 1222EE for a great deal. It was brand new, never even fired as the guy had to put oil and gas in it to start it for me before I bought it. Fired right up on the first pull, dual headlights bright as can be and the electric chute rotation was faster than I expected. It has the snowshredder auger with all the ice chomping blades and overall I am impressed that the design is done so that there is no interference between the auger and the housing and/or scrapper blade. The Cub Cadet 221 LHP and all the other MTD-made single stage blowers seem to have issues with the impeller blades hitting other parts of the snowblower and needing to wear in (even though my 221 LHP never really did wear in in the short time I owned it since it still caused a good vibration when you activated the auger paddles).

At 11.5 ft/lbs torque I think this is the largest single-stage snowblower on the market. About the only thing it is lacking is a remote deflector control. I got spoiled with the Cub Cadet 221 LHP I had last year and after I sold that one I ended up buying a remote deflector setup for my older 2-cycle MTD Gold Series 5.5hp single stage I rebuilt last spring. That one has a chute rotation crank, which is OK. The electronic chute rotation on the Simplicity is so much nicer.

So, I guess I have to decide if I am going to sell the older, but brand new, MTD 2-cycle, or if I keep it as a backup???

One thing I would like to do is figure out how to do a remote chute deflector on the Simplicity. I really hate having to stop and reach around to change the pitch. I would much rather either use a lever or a switch to adjust it. I have looked up all the available parts in the Briggs/Simplicity/Snapper models and I think for about $130 or so I can piece together an electric deflector control. Just more cash than I want to spend on it. Plus I have to mess around a bit with the plastic console to get the switch mounted properly.

Too bad the only lever control they used is almost $200 and that was for chute rotation. Even though I could modify it for deflector control it is still probably too short of an assembly, so the electronic route is the more viable solution.
 

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The chute deflector cables do break on the full size machines and cost about $90.

I use a throttle cable with T locking handle as a replacement which is about $25 available from NAPA and most other places I guess, trim cable to length if needed. You still need to rig up a spring to keep tension out on deflector when starting from scratch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input on the throttle cable. Nice solution for cheap.

But, in looking at the Simplicity stuff available, it looks like they have a set of detents on the console for the deflector lever which "locks in" the selected angle. Like you mentioned they use a spring to pull the deflector to vertical and the detents lock against that spring pressure.

The stock design uses a "spine" under the stock handle in the middle with detents a tooth locks into when you release the squeeze handle. In looking at that design as well as the earlier non-squeeze handled version that uses a large wingnut to lock-in the angle with just a handle to adjust with it would be simple to take the earlier design, put a pin through the back of the handle and then screw a metal tab under the back screw and hook the other end of the spring there. That should pull the deflector back to vertical and allow a cable to pull the deflector down against that pressure. The wing-nut would allow for both stability and dampening of the deflector so you don't get bounce, as well as locating the deflector in it's swing, just like they use a slot and bolt in the larger metal versions for the same reason.

I just would rather find a Simplicity part solution instead of hacking in a third party solution. I am just not finding anything from Simplicity that could be bolted to their handles outside of the chute rotation assembly. And with that, besides the excessive expense, I would still have to fab up a cable-actuator using various other parts they used for chute rotation to accomplish the same thing. I am sure there is room under the top cover, but again, no real "elegant" way of making it look factory.

I really do think going electric with the chute control is the best option. It would require only the bracket for the motor assembly, the motor assembly itself (which uses a linear-actuator design that "locks" the deflector once you remove power) and the only "custom" piece being a eyelet that would bolt on the deflector itself.

And even looking at that design, I am sure I would probably be able to fab up one of the earlier chutes to allow for the motor to be mounted at the back of the chute, put an eyelet through the empty handle with a shouldered bolt as a pivot, cut a oval into the top of the handle to allow for actuator rod travel, and have it actuate like that. The only negative there is that the slot is only on one side of the deflector, so you would have to build-in stops on the actuator, otherwise you would end up breaking the deflector trying to use the slot as a "stop" either way. If you "had" to mount it on the side with the slot you might not have to worry about it, all depends on how strong a motor they use, and/or if you can position the eyelet in a manner to match the throw of the actuator to the slot.

If you can't tell, I actually enjoy engineering a solution like this. I just want it to look and act like a factory solution. MTD on the Cub Cadet/Columbia/Craftsman high-end machines use the lever and cables setup I put on the 2-cycle I have. If I wasn't worried about keeping the snowblower "all Simplicity" I would just adapt that setup. then again there is no pivot bolt to work off of, as all the Simplicity chute designs use a door-hinge type of design instead.

Decisions, decisions... For as much as they charge for these snowblowers, you would think they would include remote deflector control. It is the only thing keeping it from being the "perfect single stage snowblower". It has the most power (by far), is easy to move around, has a massive auger, nice intake height, solid paddle design with the ability to deal with ice and hard packed snow (something which none of the other single stage offerings can do) with a ribbed belt setup that is up to handling the forces involved. And with lights and electric chute rotation it is 98% there to "perfect", yet they miss the mark with a manual chute deflector... ARGH!!!
 

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But, in looking at the Simplicity stuff available, it looks like they have a set of detents on the console for the deflector lever which "locks in" the selected angle. Like you mentioned they use a spring to pull the deflector to vertical and the detents lock against that spring pressure.
All the earlier models used a twist to lock handle on the deflector cable mounted in an "L" bracket on the inside handlebar uprights, no detents or control in/on the panel. That cable in residential use will outlive the machine. The cable gets routed from handle over the Tecumseh engine with a small cable stay on top of engine blower housing then forward, down, then up to deflector on left side of chute deflector.

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Simplicity-Control-Cable/1718771SM/2322006?ss=b385c104&mr=0
 
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