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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all.

This followed me home the other day. It's an Ultra by Murray, model# G2250030. I found it in my travels sitting on a pile of scrap in front of someones house. This is only the second snowblower I have picked up (so far). It has a Tecumseh HSSK50, 5HP. It looks like it has sat outside for quite awhile. One of the tires is flat / off the bead, and both are quite dry rotted, although they may be able to be salvaged. When I got it home, I turned on the fuel, primed it, and it fired up. I let it idle low for a minute or so,it was a little rough but it ran. Then I engaged the auger. Fortunately it spun and seemed to work ok. I put it through the gears and it seems to move fine under its own power forwards as well as backwards. So far so good.

Yesterday, I drained what little was left in the tank and put some fresh gas with stabil in it. I then fired it up and let it idle for about 5 minutes to warm up. I then drained the oil and threw in some regular NAPA 10w30. The old oil was full, but pretty well used. It seems to run quite a bit better with new gas, and fires right up.

Now the issues-

1. RUST- It does need to get quite a few spots painted, to the extent where I just may dissassemble the machine almost entirely and put a few coats of rustoleum primer followed by some Rustoleum green paint I have left over from a project.

2. The gear case for the auger seems to move side to side a little bit, I may have to see about some new bearings for both sides.

3. When moving the machine, not under its own power, just pushing it with the machine off, it seems to make a heck of a grinding noise, so I will have to take it apart and see if it may just need some grease, or something more.

4. Tires- Like I mentioned, they are dry rotted and one is off the bead. I may go the route of tubing them and seeing how they hold up, or, I may pick up a new set of Xtrac tires to put on my MTD machine and take the snowhogs that are on that one, and put them on this one if they are the same size. These are 4.10-6NHS, I still have to check what the MTD tires are.


My goal with this machine is to get it running good, but I don't want to sink a lot of money into it. I know it is not worth much as a machine, buy I will probably give it to a friend of mine who does not have a snowblower, but does have a double wide driveway.

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior
Automotive tire Bumper Automotive wheel system Walking shoe Gas
Wood Electrical wiring Trunk Bumper Machine



I realize that this is not the most powerful / durable machine out there, but finding free machines around me is rare, unless they are totally scrap / worthless.
 

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Machine looks in better condition than most curb finds, can't beat free!
I would imagine you will be able to turn it into a nice reliable machine for little $.
Your friend will appreciate the gift, sure beats shoveling.
 

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I have a machine like this but a couple years older and made by craftsman which i think is made by murray. It is in worse condition than yours has TONS of rust needs a belt cover probably some new bushings or bearings for the auger but other than that the engine runs very good with electric start. I maybe would paint mine and get new parts but these machines can really take a beating. if I were you i would just fix the drive train and get the augers working good and skip on the paint since it doesn't look too bad.
 

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I agree with PhiltheFarmer, you want 0w or 5w, however I'd be putting in synthetic oil. If you keep the snowblower in a garage rather than a shed, it will be fine.

I have the same machine and the 5hp does fine with the 22". Check the engine RPMs, I like 3,450, max 3,600.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ziggy- I agree, you can't beat free, and it sure in heck does beat shoveling. He always complains that he does not have one, but never wants to save up and spend the money to get one. Its like I tell him, its not something you have to buy every year. They can last you decades.

Smallengine- I was thinking about skipping the paint, but as I kept looking at it, it looks like there is a lot more rust that is hidden below the surface of some of the green coating still left on the bucket, plus, I figured if I am taking the auger assembly out to clean and inspect it anyway, that would be the time to do it. I have the paint from a project several years ago, and I know I will most likely never use it, and it will just go bad sitting in the can. With a wire wheel on an electric drill, I should be able to take care of the rust somewhat quickly.

Phil and Jlawrence- I usually don't run that oil in a snowblower, but I used it this time to run through the engine for a little bit while I am still working on it. I will change the oil when I am done servicing the machine, and will put in Mobil1 EP 10w30. I know that some of the manuals call for 5w30 in the winter, but they list 10w as an alternative. Also, the blowers are usually kept in my heated workshop, or probably stored in his garage. It is easier for me to standardize my motor oil, in that most of my equipment (generators, trash pump, etc.) usually specify 10w30 since they are often used in the warmer months. They would usually get synthetic anyway, so I just buy the 5qt jug of Mobil1 at Walmart. I just picked some up with the rebate they have going on now as well.

Heck, I used to use 30w (Royal Purple synthetic) in my snowblower for many years, and it never gave me a problem.
 

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Ziggy- I agree, you can't beat free, and it sure in heck does beat shoveling. He always complains that he does not have one, but never wants to save up and spend the money to get one. Its like I tell him, its not something you have to buy every year. They can last you decades.

Smallengine- I was thinking about skipping the paint, but as I kept looking at it, it looks like there is a lot more rust that is hidden below the surface of some of the green coating still left on the bucket, plus, I figured if I am taking the auger assembly out to clean and inspect it anyway, that would be the time to do it. I have the paint from a project several years ago, and I know I will most likely never use it, and it will just go bad sitting in the can. With a wire wheel on an electric drill, I should be able to take care of the rust somewhat quickly.

Phil and Jlawrence- I usually don't run that oil in a snowblower, but I used it this time to run through the engine for a little bit while I am still working on it. I will change the oil when I am done servicing the machine, and will put in Mobil1 EP 10w30. I know that some of the manuals call for 5w30 in the winter, but they list 10w as an alternative. Also, the blowers are usually kept in my heated workshop, or probably stored in his garage. It is easier for me to standardize my motor oil, in that most of my equipment (generators, trash pump, etc.) usually specify 10w30 since they are often used in the warmer months. They would usually get synthetic anyway, so I just buy the 5qt jug of Mobil1 at Walmart. I just picked some up with the rebate they have going on now as well.

Heck, I used to use 30w (Royal Purple synthetic) in my snowblower for many years, and it never gave me a problem.
if there is more rust under the exsisting paint, yes do indeed paint it but also take away the paint around the rust spot (maybe 1" around) and also make sure the engine is running well. these small blowers can have quite the power.
 

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All my equipment get 5W30 Full Synthetic. New, old, summer, winter .... never an issue.

A flap disc type 29 on a 4 1/2 inch grinder will work real good for getting that rust and peeled paint off.

I would always recommend having 2 blowers ... you know they always break in a storm, and then you just grab the backup and finish, and repair the other one at your warm convenience.
 

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All my equipment get 5W30 Full Synthetic. New, old, summer, winter .... never an issue.

A flap disc type 29 on a 4 1/2 inch grinder will work real good for getting that rust and peeled paint off.

I would always recommend having 2 blowers ... you know they always break in a storm, and then you just grab the backup and finish, and repair the other one at your warm convenience.
been wanting to do that but would have no where to store a 2 blowers and even in the summer my main blower goes outside not even in a shed....
 

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Ziggy- I agree, you can't beat free, and it sure in heck does beat shoveling. He always complains that he does not have one, but never wants to save up and spend the money to get one. Its like I tell him, its not something you have to buy every year. They can last you decades.

Smallengine- I was thinking about skipping the paint, but as I kept looking at it, it looks like there is a lot more rust that is hidden below the surface of some of the green coating still left on the bucket, plus, I figured if I am taking the auger assembly out to clean and inspect it anyway, that would be the time to do it. I have the paint from a project several years ago, and I know I will most likely never use it, and it will just go bad sitting in the can. With a wire wheel on an electric drill, I should be able to take care of the rust somewhat quickly.

Phil and Jlawrence- I usually don't run that oil in a snowblower, but I used it this time to run through the engine for a little bit while I am still working on it. I will change the oil when I am done servicing the machine, and will put in Mobil1 EP 10w30. I know that some of the manuals call for 5w30 in the winter, but they list 10w as an alternative. Also, the blowers are usually kept in my heated workshop, or probably stored in his garage. It is easier for me to standardize my motor oil, in that most of my equipment (generators, trash pump, etc.) usually specify 10w30 since they are often used in the warmer months. They would usually get synthetic anyway, so I just buy the 5qt jug of Mobil1 at Walmart. I just picked some up with the rebate they have going on now as well.

Heck, I used to use 30w (Royal Purple synthetic) in my snowblower for many years, and it never gave me a problem.
actually, if I had trac-team attachement for my ariens deluxe 824, I would change the 5w30 for 10w30 oil because I would use it in the summer and I need a thiner oil for summer
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Small engine- I was actually thinking about trying out a flap disc. I have a harbor freight grinder that I picked up for a previous project, which I think they offer discs for as well. The engine so far seems to be running ok. I am probably going to take apart the entire machine for painting, and will also dig in to the motor. I'll pop off the head and then get an idea what kind of maintenance it has received throughout its life.

Oneacer- My equipment almost always gets full synthetic, usually either Royal Purple or Mobil 1 EP, depending on what oil I have in stock. Over the past couple of years I have been transitioning everything to Mobil1 EP since it is readily available and not too expensive. (I had looked into Amsoil, but could not quite justify the price based on the frequency of changes). However, since most of my equipment calls for 10w30, I usually stick with that for everything. In my area of NJ, we rarely go below the upper 20's / low 30's as far as temps.

This is actually my third snowblower. Ever since the MTD did not start on me about 10 years ago, (faulty safety key switch that was bypassed to allow me to blow the 2+feet that had fallen) I have been somewhat keeping an eye out for a spare blower. I found a Toro 3650 in January that I cleaned / tuned up and added a new set of paddles. That one has performed more than adaquetly. This one is most likely going to be a gift for a friend, but if I like it too much after I am finished, I may keep it (I spoke to him yesterday and he mentioned possibly moving south out of state, where he would not need a blower).

Phil- I always figured that the 10w30 synthetic would suffice for winter. Whenever I start up any of my equipment, I let it idle at the lowest rpm setting to let it warm up for a few minutes before I get to work. That usually gives me time to mark out my edges on sidewalks and driveways so I can keep my lines straight. I don't like when the path I cut looks like I just finished off a case of beer.

I always thought that even at 20 degrees, the 10w30 synthetic seems to flow pretty good compared to oils from years ago. Maybe not as good as 5w30, but close enough for me. My grandfather used to tell me about how some of the 30wt oil used to be like maple syrup when it got below freezing.


I'll post updates as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So, here's what has been going on. I finished a couple other small snowblowers and just got back to this one. I have the machine apart now, and so far, so good. I got most of the rust off it and used a couple old cans of Rustoleum spray Hunter Green to paint it. It is pretty close to the factory color, but since I painted the whole machine, no one will notice. The drive system is in good shape and will be completely reused, as well as the metal handles and chute. I have to tube at least one of the tires, since they are pretty dry rotted. It will hold air for a few days, but eventually end up flat.

Now for the auger. One of the augers came off the shaft no problem, the other was frozen solid. I took the entire auger case apart to make it easier to work on. In doing so, I got a look at the brass auger drive gear. It seems worn and I wanted to replace it since I have the auger fully apart. I have the part number (Murray 51405), but I was not sure if I should purchase one from Jack's (roughly $65) or off amazon (roughly $20). I truthfully don't know what the difference would be. Once I figure this out, I will get the auger back together and reassemble the rest of the blower.

Pictures to follow.
 

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On a Craftsman I rebuilt years ago, I used the 20.00 brass worm from a place in Texas .... my neighbor has that machine now., works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I bit the bullet and ordered the $20 cheapo from amazon. Honestly, at this point, I don't want to put more money into this machine. I now have to replace the scraper as well. (I had set it aside before and never looked close at it.)
 

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definitely a good idea to avoid spend much on machine like that. those are the beginning of the cheap machines and definitely not much re-sale value. the metal still should be pretty thick so you likely don't have to worry about painting it. don't touch the rust till you are ready to deal with it properly or you will just make the rust worse. my biggest issue with those machines is the square outlet on the impeller. it really limits the snow coming out. there are also other stupid things like the plastic chute rotation parts that like to break because plastic doesn't usually age well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am not really concerned about the resale value. I am giving this machine to a neighbor (known them for over 25 years). They don't have a whole lot of area they have to blow, but we get enough 12-24 inch storms where it will come in handy, especially for the end of driveway. The guy across the street from them has a plow, and he will usually plow his driveway out into the street and in front of her house / driveway.

I figure I will probably have $100 into the machine between belts, auger gear, scraper bar, tire tubes, and misc. engine tune up parts. I had the green spray paint sitting around from stuff my dad had brought in the late 90's / early 2000's that was never used. I'd rather use it than have it go bad in the can.
 

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@carguy,

That is very nice of you assisting your neighbors .... good karma.

BTW, in my town, if someone plowed snow in front of someone else's driveway, that would be a hefty fine, as well as they would have to remove the snow from said drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah, he has become a little better about it, but I don't think the town wants to be bothered about it.
 
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