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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Great topic for my 1st post...I just bought an Ariens 24 SHO EFI that Snow Blowers Direct had as a scratch & dent discount (last one)...It was delivered yesterday...The packaging of the machine on 2 pallets was trashed & missing one of the handlebar bolts, washer, & locknut. This was not a huge deal as I contacted them immediately. It ran well enough to load up into my pickup & bring home from my work where it was delivered...Today I went out for a test run...Not good.

Here is my issue:
It seems like not a big difference when dialing between IDLE-EFFICIENCY-POWER except seems to run rougher on POWER...definitely NOT revving up as it should...The manuals that came with the machine had no troubleshooting code diagnostics BUT I did find online the code shown is a Code 22...2 blink pause 2 blink red code that shows to be Engine Temperature Sensor Failure.

I regret NOT buying one from my local dealer but I would have had to wait until next season (they did not have this higher powered model in a 24" w\ EFI @ the end of our record 56" February snow)...and now I'm faced with bringing it in to them as I have NO IDEA HOW THE ONLINE DEALER CAN HELP ME.

Anyone have any positive warranty experience with Snow Blowers Direct? What should I expect them to do for me?

Dave
 

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Some folks have had good luck some have not. If your having this much trouble already it may have gotten to the point where you need to ask for a new one with the problems you already have.

I would ask to have them for a refund and send the old one back they have done that previously from what I remember of it.

You should call them on Monday morning and tell them what condition the pallets were in when you accepted the freight load.

I have no idea how long it would take to get your snow mule back from the dealer as many of the dealers frown on helping a home owner that did not buy it from.
Some of the dealers do not have the equipment to perform a computer search for problems to perform an analysis of the computers on the new machines.

If it was damaged in shipment you should have not accepted it and they would have to send you one that was undamaged.

I guess the Samsonite gorillas have graduated from suitcases to snow blowers.

Sorry to see that you have all this trouble. When you call you should ask for a refund of your money and arrange to have the snow blower sent back as it was obviously damaged in shipment.

Your snow mule may be put at the end of the line to be fixed as this has happened before when a snow mule was purchased somewhere other than the local dealer.
We have seen this with the plugging chute issues for the new Hondas as it takes a complaint to honda and the dealer to obtain a replacement chute and spout and some of the owners have to wait 6+ weeks to have the work done for simple chute replacement as the new chutes have to be ordered and then the work needs to be scheduled to do the repair of replacing the old chute.

I know this is of no help to you but until you call snow blowers direct or call the local dealer to see if it can be looked at soon your stuck.

Any freight that has exposed damage is always suspect as the damage may have affected the onboard computer on the snow blower.

If your close to the Canadian border checking with a Yamaha dealer over the border may be a better option as the 824's and 1028's have no computer to mess things up.
 

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Sorry to hear about the trouble. Maybe they could get you a new sensor, though I wouldn't count on it. If Ariens pays for warranty work, I don't really understand why it matters if you didn't buy from the dealer you call. But regardless, that seems to be the way things work.

I would definitely spend a few minutes tracing out wires from the ECU box to the engine. Ideally, identify the temperature sensor, and check for any loose/damaged connections. Maybe you get lucky, and a plug jiggled loose.

leonz, as it was a scratch & dent discounted machine, that may impact swapping to a new machine, etc. Heck, maybe they knew how it would arrive, maybe that was the scratch & dent before it even went on the truck, I have no idea.

I would certainly talk to SBD. But might start also asking your local dealer what they could do for you, in case SBD's answer isn't ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry to hear about the trouble. Maybe they could get you a new sensor, though I wouldn't count on it. If Ariens pays for warranty work, I don't really understand why it matters if you didn't buy from the dealer you call. But regardless, that seems to be the way things work.

I would definitely spend a few minutes tracing out wires from the ECU box to the engine. Ideally, identify the temperature sensor, and check for any loose/damaged connections. Maybe you get lucky, and a plug jiggled loose.

leonz, as it was a scratch & dent discounted machine, that may impact swapping to a new machine, etc. Heck, maybe they knew how it would arrive, maybe that was the scratch & dent before it even went on the truck, I have no idea.

I would certainly talk to SBD. But might start also asking your local dealer what they could do for you, in case SBD's answer isn't ideal.

So stumbling across the Service Manual online I noticed a non-code section in troubleshooting the EFI where the symptoms of no rpm change with potentiometer (throttle) turning, to ohm out the potentiometer for functionality...preparing for that I then noticed that although the potentiometer #3 (red) wire was in the correct spot...the potentiometer 2 (green/white) & 1 (black/white) were inserted reversely @ the 14 pin ECU connector...So I felt brave enough to reverse the 2 wires...Tah-Dah! Runs like a raped ape...though with a slight back-fire when turning down to idle...I'll continue the thorough check-out tomorrow...I'm whipped. My advice: BUY LOCAL! :surprise:
 

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A slight afterfire is normal on a lot of engines when dropping revs quickly at closed throttle. Easy to end up with a little bit of unburned fuel thrown into the exhaust and it then lights off in there with a bang.
 

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May be buy a scratch and dent and First year EFI snowblower local. But I personally Put my Carbed Platinum together and have no problems.I would never even think about Buying that EFI online or from a Dealer until the bugs get worked out .
 

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Congrats on finding the fix. Did you have to solder the wires or do they clip in?

Was there a good discount because of the dent or scratch?

You should post pics of your new machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
What ticks me off is they offered it up as a scratch and dent at near full price...this had to be a factory snafu and would have been returned as non operational...not scratched. They SUPPOSEDLY double check everything prior to shipping it out. That’s a big lie.They dumped it on me. Btw they don’t have any more in stock. I DID get the last one. They owe me.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Congrats on finding the fix. Did you have to solder the wires or do they clip in?

Was there a good discount because of the dent or scratch?

You should post pics of your new machine.
No soldering just snap together Molex connector...tough part is when connector is separated all 9 wires popped out with little space to get them back in...had to ohm a few wires (2 blacks & 2 reds) to verify which black or red wire I was actually working with (I chose to identify the easier to find battery connector wires)... I'm embarrassed to say I got a WHOPPING $25 OFF for all my trouble...Call me MURPHY.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Some pics of the wiring...

Maybe this can help someone else...Here is a picture of the Platinum SHO EFI, the location of the ECU, the 14 connector plug showing the green wire w/ white stripe in the wrong location (disabling the potentiometer/throttle knob), & the 14 pin wire connector schematic from the service manual that saved my bacon:
 

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Congrats on the great fix! And thanks for sharing the findings, and pics of the machine & connectors.

A bit disappointing, since this sounds like it was wrong from the factory, as you said. Makes you wonder how Ariens tested it.

Sounds like SBD should have take off more than $25. Especially if maybe you explained to them that your service work saved them from having to take it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Congrats on the great fix! And thanks for sharing the findings, and pics of the machine & connectors.

A bit disappointing, since this sounds like it was wrong from the factory, as you said. Makes you wonder how Ariens tested it.

Sounds like SBD should have take off more than $25. Especially if maybe you explained to them that your service work saved them from having to take it back.
Snow Blowers Direct also states when they have a scratch & dent that they make sure it's all good, except the scratch & dent: "Scratch & Dent Model* *Scratches on the frame & handlebar *Shipped to another customer and returned to us, cosmetic only, will not affect operation" which sounded OK to me...It wasn't OK. It did start right up every time for me, just didn't want to power up any more than that. I was thinking that at least this "slug" was quiet. Snow Blowers Direct was just closing on Friday when I called them on a missing carriage bolt...I'll have to call them on Monday morning to explain the rest of it...True test for an on-line supplier. Thanks for the Forum to vent my displeasure...Right now I'll give them a shot @ making it right. Had a full day battling with it. But HEY, I'm learning about an EFI snowblower!
 

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I am amazed those terminals are not in a weatherproof connector. Automotive electrical has used weatherpack type connectors for 30 yrs.


If this machine was mine, I would remove the connector, and fill the terminals with dielectric lubricant. (not dielectric grease, that is for spark plug boots) The lube will also prevent terminal fretting. That leads to a poor electrical connection.


Cheap insurance, a GM dealer should have it if you don't deal with amazon. We use this as per GM on air bag terminals that tend to have a poor connection from vibration and moisture. Highly recommend.


https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-12377900-Dielectric-Lubricant/dp/B000QINNZA


link about fretting


http://www.vestest.com/Termina-Fretting.pdf
 

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I'd never heard of dielectric lubricant, rather than dielectric grease. But I'd agree that putting *something* on the connection terminals seems like a good idea. I'd have used dielectric grease, since that's what I have, and I didn't know there was something different. But anything should help avoid corrosion.

It might also be worth mentioning your wiring find to Ariens. 95% of people would not have taken the time and diligence to identify the actual problem. One way or another, Ariens would have ended up paying, both for repair work, and in reputation/word of mouth. If it was assembled wrong at the factory and not sufficiently tested, that seems like something they should know about. Proper engine & controls operation doesn't seem like an unreasonable thing to check for.
 

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Once the consumer puts gas in it, no online place takes it back.

They would send you to the service guy in your area.

I think if they were to gas it up it would be considered a used blower although not sure on that.

I bought my blower from Snowblowers direct in December with no problems.

I feel from what I am reading on many of these threads is people who buy EFI are Beta testers without the price breaks Beta testers should get.
 

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I feel from what I am reading on many of these threads is people who buy EFI are Beta testers without the price breaks Beta testers should get.
+1

That's the conclusion I have arrived at too.

Looking at the specs for the Platinum 24 SHO and the Platinum 24 SHO EFI, the torque is the same, the snow-blowing tons per hour is the same, so I don't see the advantage. Plus, if the carb version quits working I have a prayer of being able to fix it myself because I know how the carb and ignition work. And it's $300 more!

I don't see that I'm getting anything extra for that $300.
 

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The governor can hold RPM better than a mechanical governor. And perhaps they'll be more resistant to issues from fuel degrading in the system, though I don't think there's enough of them out there yet to really say for sure.

I agree that, for now, a carb would still be my choice.
 
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