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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks -

I have a 2002 Craftsman 9HP (model 536.887990)

Need to replace the skid shoes. I'd like to replace with a poly/plastic type - but having trouble finding any that have 2" bolt spacing (best I can tell, I'm measuring and it looks to be exactly 2" on this blower)

I realize there are "universal" poly shoes - aka Arnold shoes I see at home depot and Amazon, etc.

But my housing has a bit of an indentation where the shoe fits, and ideally doesn't accommodate this longer shoe. I could probably make work but not ideal as I'm sure to get the bolts snug it will be bending the shoe.

Many of them don't label the bolt spacing - but I'm assuming most seem to be 2-3/8".

I've seen Ariens poly skids that look awesomely beefy, but not in 2" spacing (only 2-3/8)

somebody MUST make a poly shoe made specifically for a 2" spacing!??

And quite frankly - even if I had to resort to the good old metal shoe - any suggestions for finding good ones for 2"? I read the Sears parts (perhaps this is also Murray?) replacement one doesn't last very long.

Any guidance greatly appreciated!

Best -
Brad
 

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I actually made some for my girlfriends Toro 521 which also has indents on the sides so I just used a piece of 3/16 plastic and drilled 2 holes 2" apart that fit into the indents so now the skids are sitting nice and flush.
 

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John Deere and Murray have models with 2" check snowblowerskids.com has them I just put them on a Murray built Craftsman. Some require washers or spacers to get away from indents in the bucket sides. Our project did not require the spacers, nor would I pay $10 extra for washers.
Specifically ASC2475-A on their "order" page are 2" centers.
Robalon has them also, can't find my bookmark, but the real JD 826 had 2" centers.
Definitely stay away from any OEM Murray/Craftsman shoes..........really. they flat out suck.
Murray shoe vs snowblowerskids.com

This was for an 11hp. 30" "Craftsman" blower. Clearly a Murray build. Anytime you find parts for a blower that have links or a part # ending in MA it's a Murray.
 

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If you couldn't find stock poly skids with 2" spacing it would be easy enough to drill them yourself or find a friend to. If you had a router that would work slick.
 

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You might have to add shims behind the shoes to take up the slack and allow them to sit flush against the bucket without bending them when you tighten.

The armorskids shown above (steel) are available with shims from the supplier, but if you want to use poly skids, then you would need to make up some sort of shims of the right thickness, and large enough to provide enough support behind the shoes.
 

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I actually made some for my girlfriends Toro 521 which also has indents on the sides so I just used a piece of 3/16 plastic and drilled 2 holes 2" apart that fit into the indents so now the skids are sitting nice and flush.
The OEM skids for the Toro 521 (I also own one) are hands-down the most poorly designed skids ever.They aren't curved up in the front and they catch on everything possible.I installed new ones last year,when these are shot(it doesn't take long) I'll probably make my own,as well.Anything I come up with can't be any worse than the OEM skids.
 

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These are the skids I made for it, Grant it I DO work in a machine shop so have a little access to some pretty fun machines.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for the replies and great ideas. I think the Robalon A105BD are exactly what I'm looking for - perfect!

I would not have found them without this forum.

Thanks so much. If they are good quality (they seem like they might be) - I might order a second pair to have on hand, since they are seemingly only available at very limited locations.

Thanks!
Brad
 

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Just FYI, I had them on my old JD 826 and I found they needed a star washer even under the nylock nuts I used. The stuff is pretty slick and they walked a bit until I added the washers.
 

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Thanks all for the replies and great ideas. I think the Robalon A105BD are exactly what I'm looking for - perfect!
After you get them on and use it let me know how you like them. Mainly how they work on the EOD if they ride up or cut thru. Since I fixed my sidewalks and driveway I really don't need the armorskids and I can't justify spending the money on the newer amroskids since I have a SS now and will only use the two stage if I have to. I had a set of the MTD replacement shoes left over so I put them back on for now.
 

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Yep - I use longer bolts with spacers and I also use wing nuts and star washers on them. It makes adjustments quick and easy and they will slip if you don't use the locks to bite into the material....... I have been cutting my own as well from HDPE material. High Density Polyethylene Sheet - HDPE It drills and cuts with any wood working saws and bits. Tough stuff
 

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I thought everyone used shoes that were reversible, so that when they became worn, you'd move the right side to the left and the left to the right; giving the shoe a fresh nose.

And then, when that 2nd nose/edge was worn, you'd simply flop them upside down and use that edge, and repeat the reversal process again when that time came.

That just seemed to produce four(4) lives for the original shoes . . . . wasn't that the intention of the engineers ?

I thought that was in the instructions.
 

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Yep - I use longer bolts with spacers and I also use wing nuts and star washers on them. It makes adjustments quick and easy and they will slip if you don't use the locks to bite into the material....... I have been cutting my own as well from HDPE material. High Density Polyethylene Sheet - HDPE It drills and cuts with any wood working saws and bits. Tough stuff

What thickness do you buy, and do you think it will work with my regular radial arm saw and blade I use for 2 x 4s?
 

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I thought everyone used shoes that were reversible, so that when they became worn, you'd move the right side to the left and the left to the right; giving the shoe a fresh nose.

And then, when that 2nd nose/edge was worn, you'd simply flop them upside down and use that edge, and repeat the reversal process again when that time came.

That just seemed to produce four(4) lives for the original shoes . . . . wasn't that the intention of the engineers ?

I thought that was in the instructions.
Not sure about the left to right but some are designed to be flipped. The only experience I have it with these.

https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-73-031-Thrower-Replaces-784-5580/dp/B0018TWFFU

These work ok but wear out fairly quick, some years they wouldn't even last one season. I believe they were designed like that to save your scraper bar. If you set the shoe height so the scraper is 3/16 like the manual says (not sure I'd have to dig it out) these will need replacing before the scraper bar comes in contact with the ground.

If you made these with the same grade of steel like the armorskids then you'd have something!
 

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I thought everyone used shoes that were reversible, so that when they became worn, you'd move the right side to the left and the left to the right; giving the shoe a fresh nose.

And then, when that 2nd nose/edge was worn, you'd simply flop them upside down and use that edge, and repeat the reversal process again when that time came.

That just seemed to produce four(4) lives for the original shoes . . . . wasn't that the intention of the engineers ?

I thought that was in the instructions.
I'm not familiar with any snowblower setup that would wear the skids nose first? They have two bolts so they can be set to level, makes no sense they would wear unevenly front to back unless set incorrectly to begin with? Plow skids, yes, but not a blower.
 

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DuffyJr said:
". . . Not sure about the left to right but some are designed to be flipped. The only experience I have it with these . . ."
These represent what I was referencing. The nose wears faster than the rear simply because it encounters the obstacles, while the rear remains fairly intact and available to do the job on the other side when the time comes. So they DO tend to wear a bit more in the front, EVEN when installed perfectly horizontal.





And since the tops are the same as the bottoms, they can be simply flipped on the same side before they migrate over to the other side of the machine where the nose goes to the rear and the rear becomes the new nose, and we start all over again . . . . at the rate of 6 years per nose, one set will last me 24 years !

I think I have them properly installed; they're certainly not complaining.
 
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