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It appears the previous owner might of been popping wheelies and caused this. Is this a common problem? It's an Ariens 73-74 10000 series. Equipped with a 32 inch bucket. Has anyone had any luck with welding or maybe a mod. Its seems to be holding up really good and i would hate to get on new bars and have it break at the worst time. It came equipped with small chained wheels that did not roll well. I habe since upgraded the wheels and it seems to roll and maneuver with ease now. Any tips and advice on repairing without reoccurring.
 

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It appears the previous owner might of been popping wheelies and caused this. Is this a common problem? It's an Ariens 73-74 10000 series. Equipped with a 32 inch bucket. Has anyone had any luck with welding or maybe a mod. Its seems to be holding up really good and i would hate to get on new bars and have it break at the worst time. It came equipped with small chained wheels that did not roll well. I habe since upgraded the wheels and it seems to roll and maneuver with ease now. Any tips and advice on repairing without reoccurring.

I don't think it's from popping wheelies, but rather from age and pushing down on the handlebars to lift the front chute and move the machine around, over the past 45 years. I'd leave 'er be, when it breaks that's an easy fix with a welder. or pull a set of bars from a parts machine.

there's a tendency to push down on the handlebars when moving these machines around while they are shut off, so it can be wheeled around on the back wheels and not drag the chute. the stress goes somewhere and that's where it ends up in the handlebar base.
 

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Replace it, they are out there shouldn't be to hard to find. I myself have spare set in the shed I'm holding onto in case mine start to break down someday. I'm sure there may be some guys here that have parts to sell as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know of an Ariens graveyard nearby. I think ill pay an ol man a visit. If its not to common of a problem ill take the chance. Ill probably modify a stress relief bracket when i put the new ones on.
 

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Welding handlebars

Replacing it is the best solution.

Can they we welded - yes, have I done it - yes, was it easy - no. Very easy to burn through the tubes if the technique and heat range are not just right. Had one a guy backed into with his car and bent them at the curve, breaking them. I tried welding them, with so-so results. I ended up taking some 1/4" rod and heating and forming them to the curve and welding them on to reinforce it. I did that long enough till I could find another set of handlebars to replace them. At least I could move it around while waiting to find some replacements.

In your photo, if you want to reinforce it I'd take a piece of flat steel and drill it to match the holes and form it a little to fit and bolt it down using the handlebar bolts over top of the handlebars. Just my thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Replacing it is the best solution.

Can they we welded - yes, have I done it - yes, was it easy - no. Very easy to burn through the tubes if the technique and heat range are not just right. Had one a guy backed into with his car and bent them at the curve, breaking them. I tried welding them, with so-so results. I ended up taking some 1/4" rod and heating and forming them to the curve and welding them on to reinforce it. I did that long enough till I could find another set of handlebars to replace them. At least I could move it around while waiting to find some replacements.

In your photo, if you want to reinforce it I'd take a piece of flat steel and drill it to match the holes and form it a little to fit and bolt it down using the handlebar bolts over top of the handlebars. Just my thought.

Boy did you call it. It was raining all day so i call my buddy Mr Handy with the Steel. He is pretty psyched to try out his new HF welder.I leave him on the garage to work his steel magic ,as he has been calling. I take off to pay the some ole mans Ariens graveyard a visit. The broken handle is a little more common than i realized because all were broken or missing and I make it back with just one left side handle. It's all good Mr Handy got it all under control right, WRONG .He burnt the bar to oblivion. I could smell melted metal when I got out my car. I knew something was up when I rolled up he was standing on the corner of the garage, one leg bent to the wall,cigarette in mouth,my Bud light in hand with a Joker like grin pasted on. He burned it,cut it, burned again, and cut then finally left me with a bubbly mess of iron. And a handle three inches to short. But its all good he says,still with the grin on. And i qoute,( your kind of short (Im 5ft 8) so the lower handle will be better. Want me to do the other one?)I beat him with it and threw it in the bed of his ratty Ford as he drove off. Told him to practice on that piece. So needless to say Im on a serious hunt for a handle before it snows.
 

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At $40 each side I think you would be better off paying $50 - $100 for a parts machine. Heck, even $150 - $200 if you can sell some of the extra parts.
Haha, I know, you're right. But he seemed desperate though...parts machines can be hard to come by especially when you need one!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got that right. Ive been on cl all day and 10000 series are running for 200 and up in these parts. Although i did find a Power Shift 8/24 and Simplicity 560 that just might have a new home in a day or two. Im sending this from.the bathroom. If my wife knows I have a new addiction Im screwed. The chainsaw collection alone almost landed me in the ER.
 

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The 924 series look the same from pictures, but I haven't seen them in person to compare.
 
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