Also here is a video I just took. I tried to capture what is happening but it's hard to see while taking a video with one hand and pushing down on the handgrip with the other, but maybe explaining in real time next to the unit will help you understand. thanks!

Link: https://tinyurl.com/4478cu6x

Video below:

 

One more video to show what is happening:

Link: https://tinyurl.com/455ymacn

Video below:

 

Thought I'd post another update (know I am talking to myself so far ha!).

So in a way it's a simple conundrum and I'm shocked others arent having this issue. Let's think about this:

The chute gears, actuator, etc are all stationary - they are bolted to the body and aren't flexing. Of course, the hand grips and dash will inevitably flex when pushing up and down on them, so they inevitably will pull on the chain that moves the rotation locking gear. The rotation lever and it's mechanism, however, are tied to the chute and not the dash.

Here is my thought, that I just tested out: If I can make it so that the lever mechanism in the dash stays solidly to the dash, then the rotation chute tower/bracket should slightly flex with the dash, so they move in unison, and then the chain that moves the locking mechanism should just "float" and not have any tension pulled on it from flexing.

I tested this out by taking a pair of vise grips and latching them onto the inside of the rotation rod, so that it cannot slide in and out of the dash area. When I did this, and flexed the dash/handgrips down, it causes the rod and subsequently the chute mechanisms to also slightly flex, and nothing loosened up because the tension was on the rotation rod and not the chain!!

So here is my idea: I'm going to mark the rotation rod where it sits approximately in the dash, pull the rotation rod out, and drill a small hole through the rod. Then I'll reinstall the rod, and place a washer and hitch pin there. This should make it so that the rod is locked to the dash, like the vise grips where doing, so that it cannot slide forward when the dash slides backward as it flexes down.

Now my next question will be, do I have the means to drill a hole through this rod? We'll find out! Still crazy that nobody else deals with this though - makes me wonder if something else is going on?

 

Welp, I fixed it! Figured I'd leave this thread for an interesting discussion and to help anyone else dealing with this mighty annoying problem!!

I measured where the chute rod comes into the dash panel (approximately 1" in), removed the rod, drilled a hole through the rod, then reinstalled the rod. I then installed a washer and a cotter pin through the hole.

Now, when the dash flexes downward via the hand grip, it puts tension on the chute rod, which transfers that slight flex to the chute tower and all of those mechanisms. This basically allows the dash and chute to flex in unison, which keeps the tension from moving onto the rotation mechanism chain! I also added a few washers up at the front of the rod when reinstalling, just to remove more slack. Before, that rod could slide back and forth pretty far before hitting the hair pin in the front. Now, no sliding - very tight.

Tested it out and ran her around too, and no more flopping loose! A few photos below of the cotter i installed. Hopefully this helps someone!

 

Perhaps adjust the release cable to have more slack, so that it only releases the chute when fully depressed. Page 18:

https://apache.ariens.com/manuals/30129700_ENG.pdf

EDIT: I see you fixed it. I had to do that on a Troy-Bilt unit, as well, but at the other end to make it longer, rather than shorter...

 

Perhaps adjust the release cable to have more slack, so that it only releases the chute when fully depressed.

I tried to adjust that with the two nuts under the front cover but unfortunately it wouldn't work. adding that much slack made it so I couldn't fully open the mechanism and clear the gear teeth

 

Do all of the new machines have a tight quick-turn cable like that? It just seems way too short to me. On my machine the cable is much longer in that it droops down and then back up to the hex rod, there's so much slack that a wire hanger holds it up to the hex rod.

 

Good point @WKLaredo - I looked online and saw that older models had a ton more slack on them. I watched a few youtube videos of the current gen Ariens (Professional, Platinum, etc - anything with the quick chute) and the cables were much tighter. Some had a bit of droop but I did see a video where one looked about as tight as mine.

I found the part number on mine for the cable is 006900615 and according to Ariens that is a 31.4" cable. Went out and measured mine and it's roughly that length too so I think they may just come tighter now?

Edit: I tried finding an older model Ariens and saw some photos of Ariens 926LE which had a quick chute, and the cable looked much looser. Looks like it goes under the dash instead of through. Maybe you have an older unit?

 

Bottom line is you fixed it! That is exactly what folks must do these days. It’s a little like living off the grid. In the OLD DAYS when you went to get gas 3 or 4 guys would attack your car. Pumping gas, Checking oil, tire pressure, coolant level, and washing windows. Back then the Toro dealer might even make house calls? Your story will hopefully inspire others to think through their problems and possibly find their own solutions.

 

What a ridiculously over complicated chute rotation

 

Thanks @guzzijohn ! It just makes me sleepy curious to check some other units with the quick chute to see if they all do it? Maybe I man handle and lift mine more than most haha. I'm just glad it's a solid fix!!

And yes @DeereBlowersOnly it's a stupid design. Now that mine is working though and feels much more solid, I can appreciate it! Who knows how long it'll last though

 

When I got my Plat 24, I had the opposite problem. It was almost impossible to unlock the chute to be able to rotate it. After looking it over, it was trivial to adjust the cable, and it's been 100% for years since. The only thing I note that you should NOT do it stop the rotation with the lock - it tears up the gear and may cause an issue similar to that being seen here.

 

I have an older design quick turn chute on my 926004 Pro unit.
The release cable on mine has some slack in it so this would not happen.
You might want to contact Ariens and see if they have a longer replacement cable.

 

Fair point @snow_toyz but I'll admit, looking at the problem and what was happening, I'm not sure if that would fix the problem. Even if there was a lot of slack, the chain still needs adjusted so it is taught enough for the lever to engage/disengage the mechanism, and the mechanism was disengaging because the dash was flexing down, and as a result pulling the mechanism that the chain is attached to.

Regardless of slack, I think it would still pull the chain itself.

I think the issue with this design is that the chain length between lock and unlocking the gear mechanism is only like a quarter of an inch! I wish they designed it so it took 1"+ of chain movement to unlock/lock - that would stop any little flexes and vibrations from causing the chain to move

 

Hey guys since we're all here discussing I figured I'd ask, i assume it's normal for the quick chute design to allow the chute to still wobble back and forth a decent amount?

Looking at the entire design it looks like it's just the nature of the beast: the width of the locking mechanism is less than the space between the two teeth it locks into, so there's some play that allows the chute to rock back and forth between the teeth.

I thought about tearing it apart again and trying to bend/widen the mechanism to tighten up the slip but figured she's working well enough now and I better not risk making it worse or breaking something...

Video of what I mean: chute robbles due to the low tolerances of the teeth and locking mechanism.

https://tinyurl.com/568uutve

 

100% normal

 

This is the older quick chute design but I think the chute end is the same on newer units.

They typically use 2 flat washers (#25) to remove play between the 2 gears. I was able to add a third but thinner washer on mine to further minimize the play.

The thin washer was made by drilling out a stainless fender washer out with a step bit.

 

Thanks for replying. I was thinking of adding washers but I actually have almost zero play between those two gears! I have play between Parts 13 and 10 in the diagram you shared