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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Donyboy73 has a good video on this on You Tube on how to install grease fitting on Honda final drive gearboxes.
I've done dozens and it's pretty easy if you have the right size drill bit and tap. Dony tells sizes. It takes an M6 grease zerk.

Pump it full of Marine water resistant grease. All the gearboxes I have opened are dry and/or water contaminated. You may get more years of service
with fresh grease before the axle pin or a tooth breaks on a gear.

I think @JnC mentions this in his thread on rebuilding/servicing the right side tranny.
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Thought about doing this upgrade a number of times. Need to bite the bullet and set aside an hour and just get it done. Any idea roughly how much grease is needed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thought about doing this upgrade a number of times. Need to bite the bullet and set aside an hour and just get it done. Any idea roughly how much grease is needed?
I just pump in about 50 pumps and then every fall do about 20 pumps from grease gun. It could probably take a whole canister. The idea to me is just get plenty of good fresh grease in there to coat gears, bearings , and bushings.

I have seen these gearboxes last 30 years without new grease but every one that I have had to repair is around 20-25 years old when the axle pin breaks or some teeth break due to worn out bushings and the gears not meshing well.

Generally the repair is about $500. Half parts and half labor. It's a job. 4-5 hours for me ( if I'm lucky ). rusted on bearings and such takes more time.
So this maintenance point is well worth it if you can get some extra seasons out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My HS50 has a rubber cover on the exterior for the axle end that passes through the final gear box. I was planning on greasing through this hole, is that not advisable?
Good question. Will have to check my 50 to see if this is doable. I thought you repacked this gearbox when you restored yours? Should be good for a long long time.
BTW on the auger gearbox on a 50 it is a closed unit with no oil drain plug . When the seals fail and start to leak I am not sure you can find seals to replace so I just install a zerk and pump in a bunch of grease instead of oil. Seems to work well. The point is to keep those gears lubed...
 

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GOT, may not agree with me, if a HS 724, 928, or 1132 , have only been used for private use and are still working, I just install the grease fitting and start pumping grease in, after about 20 pumps, I fire up the machine and drive it forwards and backwards , for a couple hundred feet each direction and do the same thing again. Also always watching for grease to ooze out any where.... I have done this on quite a number of machines and never had one back yet!!!!

I might also add, probably against some peoples thoughts, if adding the grease fitting on the above example, I don't even open the case, I drill and tap right on the machine, I do try to minimize the shavings I loose, with grease on the drill and on the tap and a vacuum running, but they are aluminum shavings so not going to destroy the transmission case...... just my 5 cents worth........
 

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Like a poster asked above, would the old grease need to be cleaned out first due to possible issues with the grease mixing. I have a very low hour machine and am not worried about this yet but is something I should do in the future. Any ideas what kind of grease Honda uses?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
GOT, may not agree with me, if a HS 724, 928, or 1132 , have only been used for private use and are still working, I just install the grease fitting and start pumping grease in, after about 20 pumps, I fire up the machine and drive it forwards and backwards , for a couple hundred feet each direction and do the same thing again. Also always watching for grease to ooze out any where.... I have done this on quite a number of machines and never had one back yet!!!!

I might also add, probably against some peoples thoughts, if adding the grease fitting on the above example, I don't even open the case, I drill and tap right on the machine, I do try to minimize the shavings I loose, with grease on the drill and on the tap and a vacuum running, but they are aluminum shavings so not going to destroy the transmission case...... just my 5 cents worth........
Just saw your post today and agree with you 100%. I do not open the gearbox if it is working. I have opened many gearboxes only when they have failed. Usually it is a broken pin on the axle or a chipped tooth that makes the machine skip. In every gearbox i have opened the grease is dry and caked off to the side and/or water got inside and started rusting the gears etc.

I know some members here may service this gearbox by opening but I never would. You are looking at a minimum 4 hour job ( on tracked models ). This grease fitting is an excellent proactive idea. Pump it full of grease and extend the life.
 

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While nothing lasts forever this grease zerk upgrade will definitely help the right-side transmission last a lot longer to indefinite.
This transmission dried out after about 20 years.
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These are the parts I ended up replacing because I wanted to bring it back to as new condition, but it could have been done cheaper with repaired parts.
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This was one of my early repairs and I used white Lithium grease. I now fill the gearbox almost completely with marine grease as water does not wash it out.
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New grease zerk.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will doing this almost guarantee to never have a gear box failure or is it prone to fail at some point? I have some oem snowmobile skid grease that would work good I would think.
no guarantees buddy. There are wear items in this box. 3 bearings and 2 plastic bushings which usually go first. But servicing it with new grease will greatly help. When I open up a box I almost always replace the bushings and I also replace the countershaft. It's only about $21. Those fine splines wear down and then you'll have problems. Found this out the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
While nothing lasts forever this grease zerk upgrade will definitely help the right-side transmission last a lot longer to indefinite.
This transmission dried out after about 20 years.
View attachment 203242

These are the parts I ended up replacing because I wanted to bring it back to as new condition, but it could have been done cheaper with repaired parts.
View attachment 203244

This was one of my early repairs and I used white Lithium grease. I now fill the gearbox almost completely with marine grease as water does not wash it out.
View attachment 203249

New grease zerk.
View attachment 203250
Excellent post Toon. I like how you pointed out the worn slot on the main gear and replacing the countershaft as I almost always do because of the worn splines. I also replace the 2 plastic bushings ( if that is what they are called )
Most gearboxes will last 20 years or more before some kind of failure. The marine grease is a good call. That is what I use. Water resistant.
Now with your rebuild and grease zerk you are good for at least 30 years....perhaps longer. Never understood why Honda never though of this. They thought that dust cap would never come off??? haha
 

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no guarantees buddy. There are wear items in this box. 3 bearings and 2 plastic bushings which usually go first. But servicing it with new grease will greatly help. When I open up a box I almost always replace the bushings and I also replace the countershaft. It's only about $21. Those fine splines wear down and then you'll have problems. Found this out the hard way.
Appreciate the response, I get what you’re saying about no guarantees. My only concern of not doing it would be the parts availability 20 yrs from now since they switched transmissions 7 years ago already. I understand the desire for marine grease for its water repellent properties but isn’t it only normally good till about 10 degrees? Not trying to overthink this but would it hurt to just use a synthetic low temp and do it more often?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Appreciate the response, I get what you’re saying about no guarantees. My only concern of not doing it would be the parts availability 20 yrs from now since they switched transmissions 7 years ago already. I understand the desire for marine grease for its water repellent properties but isn’t it only normally good till about 10 degrees? Not trying to overthink this but would it hurt to just use a synthetic low temp and do it more often?
do what more often? dismantle gearbox and service it? no way Jose. too much work.
I just like installing grease zerk and pumping in new grease.
Use whatever you are comfortable with. Synthetic is great.
 

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Where does the old grease go? Sure a lot breaks down and makes space but after a while... well good idea to keep it full.
The original grease is Bentonite-based. It eventually dries up and shrinks.
Bentonite grease advantages
  • High-temperature resistance.
  • Non melting.
  • Good sealing properties.
  • Softening resistance.
  • Maintenance decrease.
  • Non leaking.
 
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do what more often? dismantle gearbox and service it? no way Jose. too much work.
I just like installing grease zerk and pumping in new grease.
Use whatever you are comfortable with. Synthetic is great.
No no, I meant use a synthetic grease more often since it may wash out more frequently. I see Phillips66 offers a bentonite clay based grease. Granted it’s not a cheap date at 50.00 a tube would it be worthwhile to go that route since googling shows bentonite doesn’t like to play well with others?
 
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