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Discussion Starter #1
I have a good condition 1995 MTD 5/22 snowblower that I have never like the engine on. It has always seemed to be a bit underpowered and is real hard to start and I have broken the recoil on it several times. If left outside in the cold it is impossible to start will never pop. I have a heated garage and I could usually get it going and then I would take it outside and blow my driveway. I bought a Predator 212cc (Honda Clone)this summer for a minibike of mine and I love the engine. It’s powerful and starts on the first or second pull so I decided to replace the troublesome Tecumseh. The Tecumseh engine has two drive shafts. One has a 2 inch pulley (drive) the other has a 3 inch pulley (auger). The drive shafts rotates in opposite directions so I flipped the gearbox and cut off the gear shift selector bracket and re-welded my gearshift bracket with my stick arc welder in the opposite configuration. Now I have 2 reverse gears and 5 forward but the speeds are twice as fast as before. I went to the old engine and unfortunately seen that the drive pulley rotates at half the speed of the auger pulley. What would be the best way to fix this? Do they make a ¾ inch shaft drive pulley smaller than a 2-inch? Or should I put a bigger spinning friction disk in than the one that is in it?. The transmission space can accommodate up to an inch wider spinning friction disk. At full throttle on the Predator engine the number one is ok but the number two speed is a bit brisk and number 3 is like a real fast walk.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here is some photo's of My Mtd 5/22 with the Harbor Freigt Predator 212cc

Here is some photos' of My machine. Does anyone think going to a larger spinning friction disk will slow it down enough? I heard for every 1/4 inch reduction in diameter means about 300 rpm less at 3600rpm. I will look for a smaller drive pulley than a 2 inch. I bet a 1.5 inch if they make one that small will work well because it would be about 600 rpms less on the spinning disk. When I kick in the auger when the predator is on high throttle it feels like a powerful leaf blower you can realy feel the air being shot out and I watched a few Youtube post about people who used the Predator engines with good sucess. One guy said it throws snow better than any blower he has used before. Hopefully I finf that to be the case too. I would like to have more than 1 forward speed to blow my driveway with so I like to slow it down. In 4th gear it pops a wheelie if you flip the drive lever down and almost spins the tires too.
 

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Twin shafts

If you got it working with a single shaft motor, you're doing better than most. Not every 5 hp Tecumseh is a twin shaft, same with bigger ones. Some are single shaft while others are twins.

To slow down the rate, you either need to alter the size of one or the other pulleys - smaller on the engine or larger pulley on the drive.

The twin shaft engines, the 2d pulley is running off the cam, which turns at half the rate of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks jtclays and HCPH. I found a different lower pulley on Jackssmall engines website. Its a 65604025A Friction Disc $69.19 http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Products/MTD/Friction-Disc/65604025A/1945486
and its 8.5 Inches across and used in 31 inch 2007 and newer MTD Yard machines ironically that use a larger LCT Honda Clone. It will fit in the space and the calculated reduction of rpms with engine at 3600 is about 300 rpm with the calculator that you provided. I also fashioned a snow shield that bolts onto the motor and covers the space between the engine and the gas tank. I heard that this is important to protect the governor from becoming iced up with blowing snow. I will take a picture of my finished project and let everyone know how it turned out. In order to get 2 reverse and 5 forward speeds you need to flip the gear box and flip the gear shift lever so it will go in the opposite direction. This requires a welder luckly I have one. It comes in handy when retrofiting these old machines
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Bain. You could simply take a hack saw and cut off the rod to the gear shift lever bracket at were it connects and take it over to a welding shop and they could most likely weld it for you for $25.00 or less. You also need to cut off the original pin and relocate it to the other side as well. You could see if the welding shop would do it for you at the same time when they weld the bracket. Also as you seen in an earlier post I found a larger diameter MTD friction plate and according to the rpm calculator the larger friction plate diameter should slow down the rotation by over 300 rpms. I am hoping that this leads to slower drive speeds while at full throttle so I can have the most power and speed to the auger in order to throw the most snow. You could go to a bigger auger top pulley to retain the proper speed of the auger but at lower engine rpms you may lug the engine. I heard that the Predator 212cc makes max torque at about 2900rpm so you will need to be running it that rpm or better or you will notice a performance hit. Thats why I am going with the bigger friction plate. I do not want to lug the engine below it's torque peak of 2900rpm and I would like at least 2 usable forward speeds while snow blowing. I bought my stick welder for $100.00 at Menard's a couple years ago and it works well for light welding jobs. Right now if I were buying another welder I would get a Harbor Freight mig/flux core wire feed since they are now on sale and they have 170amps of power.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just waiting for my larger friction wheel plate to come and I am ready to put mine togather. The rpm calculater came in real handy and I should only be slightly faster on my speed than it was with the old engine. I will post pictures of the final project and let everone know how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Recieved my 8.25 inch diameter friction plate today

I received my 8.25 inch friction plate and I needed to modify the swing bracket on the snowblower by drilling a larger hole and grinding the edge of the metal away because the disk made contact with the bracket in it's unmodified state. I modified the disk and it seems to work well. I am going to put it into the snowblower and see how it works. here are some pictures of what I am doing
 

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gearshift change

I have a good condition 1995 MTD 5/22 snowblower that I have never like the engine on. It has always seemed to be a bit underpowered and is real hard to start and I have broken the recoil on it several times. If left outside in the cold it is impossible to start will never pop. I have a heated garage and I could usually get it going and then I would take it outside and blow my driveway. I bought a Predator 212cc (Honda Clone)this summer for a minibike of mine and I love the engine. It’s powerful and starts on the first or second pull so I decided to replace the troublesome Tecumseh. The Tecumseh engine has two drive shafts. One has a 2 inch pulley (drive) the other has a 3 inch pulley (auger). The drive shafts rotates in opposite directions so I flipped the gearbox and cut off the gear shift selector bracket and re-welded my gearshift bracket with my stick arc welder in the opposite configuration. Now I have 2 reverse gears and 5 forward but the speeds are twice as fast as before. I went to the old engine and unfortunately seen that the drive pulley rotates at half the speed of the auger pulley. What would be the best way to fix this? Do they make a ¾ inch shaft drive pulley smaller than a 2-inch? Or should I put a bigger spinning friction disk in than the one that is in it?. The transmission space can accommodate up to an inch wider spinning friction disk. At full throttle on the Predator engine the number one is ok but the number two speed is a bit brisk and number 3 is like a real fast walk.
Hi, I know your posts are a couple of years old, hopefully you may still be able to get this and help me walk through how you switched the gear
shift mechanism to get the forward and reverse working correctly. I just put the Predator engine on my snowblower and I am happy with the operation/better blowing.
I bought the same size pulley as the auger drive and it travels really fast in my six speed reverse operation. If you have a picture of what you did, I'd appreciate that.

Happy New Year.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
If you have an MTD model with a friction disk drive you can flip the transmission by pulling the axle and removing the gear which is on the left side when you are facing it and reinstalling on the other side by flipping the axle and the friction wheel. Sliding drive shaft to the other side. See my picture from up above in this post. Thr gear on the axle and the gear on the sliding shaft the friction wheel runs on gears will mesh on the other side of the blower when you are done. Then I cut the backward J shape linkage off the shift rod and I flipped it around the rod that the shaft goes into the friction wheel housing in the opposite direction so it would allow the friction wheel to move towards the other direction without comming in contact with the friction wheel. Others have added stacks of washers and lengthened When I was done I had 2 reverse and 5 forward gears.
 

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How are they performing?

This is a very interesting mod.

Now that a few folks have been running their modified snow throwers with the Preditor or Champion engine for some time, how have they performed in the winter cold?

I assume everyone has remove the air filters and protects the linkages with some kind of a shield.

The Tecumseh winter engines have a heater box that warms the carb and linkage with the heat from the exhaust.

Thanks for any feedback. I may be motivated to do a similar mod after this winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
This is a very interesting mod.

Now that a few folks have been running their modified snow throwers with the Preditor or Champion engine for some time, how have they performed in the winter cold?

I assume everyone has remove the air filters and protects the linkages with some kind of a shield.

The Tecumseh winter engines have a heater box that warms the carb and linkage with the heat from the exhaust.

Thanks for any feedback. I may be motivated to do a similar mod after this winter.
I am running the stock foam air filter on my engine and I haven't had any problems. I did fashion an aluminium shield to cover the space between the gas tank and the engine to prevent snow and ice from getting in the governor. I guess you could order the Honda snow kit and fit it to the Predator because they are so close to the Honda in design and it could fit with little to no modifications
 

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This is a very interesting mod.

Now that a few folks have been running their modified snow throwers with the Preditor or Champion engine for some time, how have they performed in the winter cold?

I assume everyone has remove the air filters and protects the linkages with some kind of a shield.

The Tecumseh winter engines have a heater box that warms the carb and linkage with the heat from the exhaust.

Thanks for any feedback. I may be motivated to do a similar mod after this winter.
I left the air filter in my Predator and didn't bother with a shield to cover anything. So far so good. I did have to enlarge the main jet just a touch to get rid of a lean condition from the factory.
 

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I left the air filter in my Predator and didn't bother with a shield to cover anything. So far so good. I did have to enlarge the main jet just a touch to get rid of a lean condition from the factory.
I am not very familiar with the engine. Is the main jet a nut attaching the bowl to the carb. i.e. like the Tecumseh? If so would Predator or Champion have a winter Carb for these engines?


And ......How much did you open it up by?

Also. Less the cost of the new engine about what is the cost of the new friction wheel, pullies belts etc.? I need to weigh this against the cost of a used 8 hp Tec with the extended cam shaft.

This concept and approach is extremely interesting to me. As I am frustrated at times with the under power of my 5 hp Tec. I do like the 22 in width as I have a gate I need to pass through and have other tight spaces to contend with.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I am not very familiar with the engine. Is the main jet a nut attaching the bowl to the carb. i.e. like the Tecumseh? If so would Predator or Champion have a winter Carb for these engines?


And ......How much did you open it up by?

Also. Less the cost of the new engine about what is the cost of the new friction wheel, pullies belts etc.? I need to weigh this against the cost of a used 8 hp Tec with the extended cam shaft.

This concept and approach is extremely interesting to me. As I am frustrated at times with the under power of my 5 hp Tec. I do like the 22 in width as I have a gate I need to pass through and have other tight spaces to contend with.
Not that I am aware of for a winter carburetor. here is were you can buy the snow guard kit that was retro-fitted to older Honda engines which were first put on the GX200 model engines which were used on Honda snow blowers. Later Blowers had the snow kit on them. Icing is very rare it takes cold temps usually in the 20's plus high humidity to form ice. My carburetor has never iced up on me and I have been using my engine for 2 winters now. Since the Predator 212cc is almost exactly like the Honda engine in it's design it should fit.

Here is the link to the kit and were to order it.
http://www.partspak.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=329569&gclid=CKztxqDU47sCFecRMwodgzQACA

 

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I am a little late reading this. Like 7 months. HA! Thanks for this info.

I am not sure what Shryp means on this.

"I did have to enlarge the main jet just a touch to get rid of a lean condition from the factory."

Is the jet the emulsion tube or the nut at the bottom of the bowl. How much would you suggest opening? Or what size drill did you use?

Thanks!
 

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Umm, I don't remember off hand. I believe it was the nut I enlarged. I used some torch tip cleaning files from Walmart and had to use the smallest one. It was a very tight fit and ended up making the file unusable after. There are some sets of micro drill bits available on ebay, Amazon and Harbor Freight that I would probably get for next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am not very familiar with the engine. Is the main jet a nut attaching the bowl to the carb. i.e. like the Tecumseh? If so would Predator or Champion have a winter Carb for these engines?


And ......How much did you open it up by?

Also. Less the cost of the new engine about what is the cost of the new friction wheel, pullies belts etc.? I need to weigh this against the cost of a used 8 hp Tec with the extended cam shaft.

This concept and approach is extremely interesting to me. As I am frustrated at times with the under power of my 5 hp Tec. I do like the 22 in width as I have a gate I need to pass through and have other tight spaces to contend with.
I hated the Tecumseh since it was the least reliable and poorest running engine I ever have owned. The Predator 212cc has just as much power as an 8 HP Briggs sine I replaced an oil leaking old Briggs on my Gilson made Montgomery Ward 8/26. Pulleys were about $30 or so for the steel ones from Phoenix. Do not use the cheaper fractual pulleys since the can not handle the engines power. Pretty cool that this thread is still being refrenced allmost 2 years after I first published it.
 

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Thanks to you guys for the great info. Sounds like there are a number of good experiences. Even with all the extra mods that some need do to make it work.

I am off to pick up a Predator.

I did see a Youtube video where someone was using Honda emulsion tubes on their predator/greyhound Carb. It was a go cart he was souping up. Apparently you can buy them in different ID's and cross hole configurations. I don't know enough about it but it looks like a nice option in case you over size it by accident. Not sure if this all still holds true today.

If you were to guess. How much did you open the jet diameter? .015, .030, 060 etc?
 
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