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91K views 639 replies 62 participants last post by  Auger1 
#1 ·
I've been buying, refurbishing and reselling 2-stage snowblowers since I retired about four years ago. I thought it might be fun to share and compare tips, lessons learned and processes with others who do the same thing.

I don't make much money doing this but it's been a great way to stay active once the hot summer months wind down. In the past I've completed 10- 14 units each season but I've gone completely overboard and now have 25 units I'll be selling this fall and winter. Here are some of my observations. Tell us about your experiences and I'd love to hear your feedback on my observations.

* I've narrowed my focus almost exclusively to 2-stage snowblowers. I've concentrated mostly on Ariens because parts are easily available and the build quality is typically above average. I can find the Operator's Manual, Parts Manuals and (sometimes) the Service Manual on Arien's web site. Limiting my focus has made my parts inventory more standardized and lowered the learning curve to making repairs. I avoid MTD and the other economy brands. At least in my part of the world, Ariens units are easy to find but Toros are far less common. Besides Ariens, I currently have 1 Snapper and 2 John Deere (Murray/Briggs), 2 old Gilsons and 1 Cub Cadet. Yes, I know Cub violates my "no MTD" rule but I couldn't resist this big old bruiser (1333SWE).

* Most of my units are 5- 25 years old as buyers don't seem to be interested in the much higher quality Ariens units from the "good old days". I love the older 924's but buyers don't. I'll never work on another "932" with the plastic wheel rims (what was Ariens thinking?) or a "926" that requires 4 factory modifications (double drive belts, drive pulley travel limit, sealing plate and chute). Granted, the 926 is a decent machine with the mods but making those mods eliminates almost any margin for profit.

* I've developed a 35 point "checklist" of tasks I do for each unit. Since I usually have 2 - 4 machines in some stage of refurbishment, the checklist helps me remember what I've done and what's remaining.

* I use an old IBM laptop running Windows 10 to store all of the manuals and reference materials. I don't have reliable Internet access in my barn and I was weary of printing everything.

* The vast majority of my machines have carb problems. I now have a "one attempt" policy for cleaning an original carb before a $10 Chinese carb is installed. I disassemble the original carb, use carb cleaner, torch tips for the orifices and compressed air. Then it goes in my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner for 3 heat cycles. If that doesn't do the trick, I'm not wasting any more time messing around with it.

* Speaking of Harbor Freight, their 1000 pound lift table is an absolute must-have. I've made some modifications to my table and I'll include some photos later if anybody is interested. Getting a machine up to eye level has made this so much easier that I just couldn't live without it now.

* Aside from replacement carbs, I try to buy Ariens / Stens original equipment parts when possible. I buy common things like spark plugs and fuel lines in bulk. I buy a lot of parts from Jacks and eBay. I prefer Jacks when I have a large order and eBay when I need one or two things quickly. I'd like to find other good parts sources aside from Jacks and eBay but haven't taken the time to research the alternatives.

I have much more but I'll stop here since I'm not sure if this thread will be terribly useful to many readers. I'll add more if there's demand.
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Can you publish your checklist? Send me a copy by email please?

I agree with everything you say though I do sell all makes but no money in single stage. I sometimes raise my price on two stage and include a single stage.

Like to see your lift modifications you've made.

eBay, Amazon, and Jack's are the Best.
 
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#5 ·
Can you publish your checklist? Send me a copy by email please?

I agree with everything you say though I do sell all makes but no money in single stage. I sometimes raise my price on two stage and include a single stage.I

Like to see your lift modifications.

eBay, Amazon, and Jack's are the Best.
Here's a quick look at my checklist. I'll send a .pdf version (or any other format you'd like) in email to you. I'll take some snapshots of my lift table this weekend.

Check and Set Tire Air Pressure
Remove wheels, clean rust from axles and apply anti-seize
Check wheel bearings and replace if needed
Test and lubricate Differential Lock
Check and replace shear bolts if needed
Grease Auger
Check auger bearings and replace if needed
Check auger gearbox oil; add or replace if needed
Adjust or Replace Scraper Bar if needed - (Stainless Steel hardware and Anti-Seize)
Replace or Adjust Skid Shoes (Anti-Seize on bolts)
Check and adjust valve lash (cold engine)
New Spark Plug with Anti-Seize
Drain old fuel, add small quantity of ethanol-free fuel
Replace Fuel Line, Shut-off Valve, and Filter if needed
Check primer bulb and hose, replace if needed
Check Carb, Clean, Adjust or Replace if needed
Change oil
Lubricate all controls, springs and friction areas
Test auger interlock
Adjust auger cable tension
Test drive interlock lever
Adjust drive cable tension
Clean friction plate and friction wheel
Adjust Friction Wheel; replace if needed
Clean and lubricate hex drive axle
Lubricate chain
Grease fitting on side of tractor near wheel if present
Check Traction Belt wear and tension; replace if needed
Check Auger Belt wear and tension; replace if needed
Adjust Belt Fingers if needed
Check headlight bulb; replace if needed
Grease chute mechanisms
Clean and degrease housing, shell, wheels and control panel
Test traction force and speeds by spinning wheels in place
Long-term storage- fuel starve and drain carb bowl
 
#7 ·
Here are a couple of additional random thoughts-

* I use Reese aluminum ramps to load snowblowers into the 6-1/2 bed of my F-150. If you buy ramps, be sure to get ones that have a safety strap to secure the ramp to the tailgate of your truck. The last thing you want is a 300 pound snowblower crashing onto the ground because the ramp moved. I can get two good sized units in the truck bed if I turn one sideways. If the unit runs, I just drive them right up the ramps while standing to the side of the ramp on the ground. If they don't run, I load them with the help of a Warn winch powered by a cordless drill. Always shut off the fuel valve during transport to avoid damage to the carb needle and seat. Use tie down straps to secure the unit in your truck bed. When unloading, don't let the snowblower freewheel back down the ramp or you may wind up in the hospital. Drive it down in the slowest reverse gear or winch it down the ramps.

* My single biggest frustration? Freeing wheel rims rusted to the axle. What a colossal pain! I spray liberal amounts of PB Blaster on the axle, give it a little soak time and then start tapping with a ball peen hammer on the axle. When that doesn't work (it usually doesn't), I break out the MAAP torch and get everything red hot (make sure there's no fuel in the tank / fuel lines and don't burn the tire). Then I use a pry bar behind the tire rim while hitting the axle with a 4lb hammer. I may repeat these cycles several more times but I always find it helpful to take a brisk walk, swear up a storm or chug a beer between sessions to relieve the frustration. Once the rim is off, I use a wire brush on my Milwaukee drill to get rid of the rust on the axle. Emory cloth on a large dowel rod helps clean up the inside of the rim. I always clean up the locking pins as well. Then, I get my revenge on rust by applying a nice, messy solution of Permatex anti-seize on the axle. I hope the next owner appreciates this. So far, I've only had one rim defeat me and I've vowed to never let it happen again.
 
#8 ·
you should be able to get more money for your machines than average. all people have to do is see your set up ( would like to see your shop ) and your checklist and the potential buyers are 90% sold.

It doesn't hurt for you to get paid a fair wage for your efforts. there is a lot more to it than an hourly wage; inventory , special tools , electricity , space, etc. there are many costs that some peopel do not take into account and then wonder why they are doing all this work for next to nothing.

I understand that you do this to stay busy and it may just be a hobby. But don't sell yourself short.

sounds like you have a good operation. I actually d o the same thing but I turn down work because of word of mouth.
 
#10 ·
I appreciate your kind words...my wife said the exact same thing. I may have to rethink my pricing philosophy. It's also nice when you can sell a good quality machine to someone who just doesn't have the financial means to buy a new one. It was heartwarming to get a call from an elderly woman last winter who told me how happy she was to use it during a couple of big storms.
 
#9 ·
I'm sure you check the rpms at fast throttle and idle . I'm surprised to see so many machines I work on ( Honda ) that are in the 2900-3100 range when they are supposed to be around 3600 give or take. also the recoil mechanism is usually rusted/corroded and the pull start is not snappy.
 
#16 ·
.

How often do you find that valves are in need of adjustment? (are they usually loose or tight?)

And how often do you have to deal with mice nests under the shrouds and/or in the trans cavities?

.
Confession time.... I don't always check valve lash. If there's good resistance on the pull rope and the machine runs strongly after I perform the engine services on my check list, I skip that step on flathead engines. It's so easy to check and adjust lash on an OHV engine that I do them almost every time. I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I find myself making some adjustment to lash on almost every engine except ones that appear to have low hours. I'd bet the farm that dealers never check lash on a routine maintenance job.

I don't find too many mice nests but it's like unwrapping a Christmas present when I pull the belly pan....you just never know what you're going to get. I've found big nests in cosmetically nice looking machines and nothing in units that look like they sat outside for 25 years. I normally wear disposable nitrile gloves for all of my work but immediately put on a mask if I find a nest. I take the machine outside to dig out as much material as i can with a stick and clean up with compressed air. Mouse urine is highly corrosive so I try to scrub those areas with a Scotch-Brite pad and apply Fluid Film. Nasty!
 
#17 ·
Hello Rod330, interesting post. What kind of winters do experience in NE Ohio? Do you battle any Lake-Effect snow storms and what type of machine to you use personally?
 
#18 ·
We're about one hour south of Cleveland and 45 minutes west of Akron, Ohio so we seldom get the dreaded Lake Effect snowfall. Our son is in the heart of the so-called snow belt and he's routinely clobbered. He has an Ariens 921 Platinum 24 SHO and I have an Ariens 921 Deluxe 28 SHO.

In the past few years we're hit with just 1- 3 big snowstorms each winter. However, we have a lot of 1" to 2" snow days coupled with several freeze and thaw cycles. We live on a private road with six other families and contract with a plow service to keep it clear. However, I personally maintain our very long concrete driveway, an extended parking pad for our 4 stall garage, a concrete driveway to our 60x60 pole barn and very large asphalt pad in front of the barn. Here's a photo of my main snow fighters: a 59" front mount snowblower when the SHTF and a little International Cub that I use more than anything. I also have a 7' rear mounted Land Pride blade for the Deere but I seldom use it.

I've got the Cub listed for sale because I'm thinking about putting a plow on our John Deere Gator or Polaris ATV. That would speed up work for those 1" to 2" snow days.
 

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#19 ·
Like you Rod, I don't take in many repairs, for the same reason as you. For old friends and neighbors only. I've only had to adjust valves on a flathead once out of more then 100 blowers I've done over.....a 1978 old toro with a Briggs engine...mostly I did it for the experience..LOL
 
#20 ·
I try to be selective as to what I buy to flip. Usually only like paying $50, to $100 on the high side. But at $100, it would have to be a sure bet money maker and in nice condition. Lately being buy mostly on Facebook Market place. Picked up some really good deals this spring, most at $50,and will sell for around $400. I try to steer clear of 2 strokes, not good money makers around here. As others good thru the machines and check everything, repair or replace items. And usually need carb rebuilds and tune ups. Chute skids and scrappers are pretty commonly replaced. I have around 9 machines waiting for the snow to fly and sell.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Motor City, I sure don't find too many $50 - $100 two stage machines in nice condition unless they're an MTD / Craftsman variant or very old. Maybe you're finding 4 cycle single stage units? Can you give us a little more information on the brands and models you buy to flip?

I buy and sell on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace. My gut tells me that FB Marketplace is quickly overtaking Craigslist but time will tell.
 
#29 ·
They are mostly Craftsman and MTD's. But the few I picked up this spring had only been used a few times and where 26-28in machines. Every area is different. Alot around here leave gas in them and give up when they don't start. I've picked up a few Ariens and a Toro for some ridiculously low prices, because they wouldn't start. But that is occasionally. There are quite a few flippers in my area, so there is alot of competition finding machines to buy.
 
#22 ·
My next random thought for discussion: how to create a good advertisement to attract buyers.

* I post my snow blowers in the Craigslist "farm and garden" category, Facebook Marketplace's "Garden" section and several local Facebook sale groups. I post the same text, photos and prices in each venue. I'm not sure if Craigslist or FB Marketplace is more effective.

* All of my ads include this:
Price is Firm, Cash Only, No Trades, must pick up in <city name>
Item is available if this ad is posted; ad will be immediately deleted once item is sold.
I will not reply to messages asking if item is still available, for lower price offers or trades.
Please message me with your contact number.

* I include 10 excellent quality photos showing every angle. I take all photos outdoors and pay attention to sunlight to avoid shadows. I try to keep the camera low to get images about 2' to 3' above ground level unless it's an overhead photo of the control panel, chute or engine. I crop out non-essential elements that might show part of my truck, house or any object that detracts from the snow blower. I keep my photos at roughly 500k in JPG format. In my opinion, good quality photos are ESSENTIAL.

* Here's an example of my description:
Ariens Compact 24 Snowblower with Electric Starter and Headlight
Two Stage 24" path and Self Propelled
Briggs and Stratton 208cc Polar Force Engine
Engine completely serviced, fresh Shell Rotella full synthetic oil and new spark plug
All traction drive, snow discharge mechanisms and controls adjusted and lubricated
Scraper bar and skid shoes replaced and adjusted
Starts easily and runs perfectly, strong machine that's ready to use today

* I never provide my phone number or email for contact purposes. I use Craigslist's email system to obtain the buyer's phone number. Likewise, I use Facebook Messenger in the same way. I feel more comfortable giving my address once I talk to a buyer and know they are serious. Even then, I won't give my exact address until I know they're on their way.

* Once a prospective buyer shows up, I share my (now) 37 point checklist. For people are aren't terribly familiar with snowblowers, I give them a brief description of how a snowblower works. Everyone hears my little speech about the maintenance an owner should perform (checking shear pins, greasing the auger, checking and adjusting skid shoes and the scraper bar, changing the oil and draining the fuel at year-end). Then I demonstrate the actual snowblower and have them operate it too.

* I send buyers a link to all of the manuals for them to print out at home. Sometimes I buy a snowblower with the original manuals and pass them along.

* I will deliver the snowblower in certain circumstances for a nominal fee. I'm considering making delivery free within a limited distance (maybe 10 miles?) and charge a small fee for longer distances.

SO-- what do you think of my approach? What do you do to advertise and sell your snow blowers? What have you learned and what makes it a win-win for you and your buyers?
 
#23 ·
You're doing it right....In SE Massachusetts, we haven't had a good snowstorm in three years....that really cuts down on sales. I've sold 9 blowers a year for the last three years, but prepped and repaired 20plus a year......they are really getting underfoot! On facebook for blowers and yard tractors, I literally get 10 times the action. I rarely use Craigslist anymore except to buy
 
#24 ·
Sounds like you are doing it right . I don't use the "price is firm" deal. seems to cut down on responses. everyone likes a deal and if they offer me $50 less than what I am asking and are going to transport themselves that's okay. I usually ask more anyway for this.

I also state that they must "see to appreciate" and that I will gladly answer all their questions in person. I am very thorough with ad description as you are but I don't like people to email me back and forth with questions . They are time wasters and are just looking for a great deal.

The trick for me is to get them to my place to look. I have found that 9 out of 10 people who come will buy. They see the garage set up , the see the checklist, they listen to the presentation , and then they buy. I give the owners manual if i have it and some extra shears. I also tell them they can email with any questions if needed once they start using it.

many of my immediate neighbors have bought blowers from me. they are my best advertisement. they tell friens who have come over and bought machines. also if they have a problem I'll go over and take care of it or ask for parts money only. this rarely happens. just a couple times.

I'm surprised that Facebook works so well for another member. It's opposite for me. Craigslist has been my best way to get sales. Facebook only slightly. Seems like more low ballers on FB. However FB is easier to see who you are dealing with. On Craigs I ask for a phone number so I can use the reverse directory to make sure it's a real person I am dealing with. Much more scam tries on Craigslist.
 
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#25 ·
Sounds like you are doing it right . I don't use the "price is firm" deal. seems to cut down on responses. everyone likes a deal and if they offer me $50 less than what I am asking and are going to transport themselves that's okay. I usually ask more anyway for this.
Great point....I'm going to eliminate the "price is firm" part. I did that to discourage lowballers and tire kickers but it might also be discouraging legitimate buyers. I appreciate the feedback!
 
#30 ·
I usually get my asking price once they see my shop and hear all that i have done to a machine. I tell people that almost all snowblowers for sale have NOT been serviced before being sold and they will have to pay 100-250 dollars or more to have the machine ready from another seller. They usually agree.

But i do like having a WIN-WIN situation where the buyer goes away happy. They get extra shear pins , the owners manual if I have it , and delivery if needed and fairly close by. I also tell them to call or email if they have any questions or issues. I tell them upfront that i do not operate a business and the sale is as is where is but I will take care of any minor issues during the first couple uses.
 
#31 ·
@rod330,

One of your earlier posts stated a frustrated ordeal with the wheel hubs rusted on the axle.

I weasel **** (PB) both ends, put on the puller (a harmonic puller set from Harbor Freight for 14.99, minus 20% off coupon at this time if needed) and tighten it, putting pressure on the puller, heat the hub with a Benzomatic Mapp Pro trigger gun (expensive, but well worth it if you don't have a set of torches).

After the hub is hot, I then tap it lightly with a ball peen hammer, and tighten up again on the puller … repeat a few more times, being careful not to use to much PB in case of igniting it, … within a couple minutes, it will be able to move right off ….. I just did one today.

Cleaned up the axles, keyway and key, and Hub axle cavity. I then cleaned the bushing holder bracket and Hub and painted same, being careful to stuff the centers, so as not to paint the internal walls, …. waiting on the new brass bushings, which should be here tomorrow,

Oh, on this ST524, the drive extension spring was broke on the end, as is pretty common …. I just ground one side of a fender washer, slide it into the spring, 1 1/2 winds from the end, inserted a long small diameter screw into the spring, through the washer and out the other end, then I just inserted the good end of the spring into the hole in the frame, right above the bushing bracket, hooked it onto the idler pully bracket, then put another fender washer on the screw, and tightened it up and put double nut on it so it wont come off. …. LOL, they want like 22.00 for that little spring ,,, crazy, not on my watch am I paying that.
 
#32 ·
[MENTION=66786]
Oh, on this ST524, the drive extension spring was broke on the end, as is pretty common …. I just ground one side of a fender washer, slide it into the spring, 1 1/2 winds from the end, inserted a long small diameter screw into the spring, through the washer and out the other end, then I just inserted the good end of the spring into the hole in the frame, right above the bushing bracket, hooked it onto the idler pully bracket, then put another fender washer on the screw, and tightened it up and put double nut on it so it wont come off. …. LOL, they want like 22.00 for that little spring ,,, crazy, not on my watch am I paying that.
Yes, I think that's a much better approach and will invest in that HF puller you recommend.

Also, your spring repair is ingenious! I'm pretty sure I can envision it but could you send us a photo when you have time? Thanks!
 
#35 · (Edited)
No need to drill any holes, you just use 3 of the bolts included, and run them through the puller yoke into the existing hub lug nut holes, and just put a heavy duty washer with a nut on the end. (I used locking neoprene nuts so no movement, but that is overkill, reg. nuts will be fine, just make sure it is all the way on the nut, and not just grabbing a couple threads)


BTW, here is some photos of the spring repair, ... one is the actual spring on the machine, as being internal, no photo, but you can see the end. The other is the setup that you would use, as I fashioned another good spring, with the setup that you would use on a broken spring.


The other is just a photo of the cleaned up parts, all refreshed, waiting on the brass bushing bearings.
 
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#36 · (Edited)
BTW, the Ariens plastic wheels thing. I will be trying out a workaround with them this winter.

I now own a couple 4 HP 922002's from the early 70's with plastic turf wheels. I took 4.10-3.50-4 Kenda K398A's, cut off the sidewalls, then fitted them over the plastic wheels (which were worn almost smooth slick). They fit very snug to the turf plastics. I then took some self tapping stainless screws and fastened these to the assemblies.

I never got a chance to actually throw snow with them, but the Kenda's are very grippy because they flatten to the wheel and are aggressively patterned. My only worry is over time how the screws will hold up. I supposed if they work loose from the holes drilled into the plastic I can always glue/silicone them to the wheels.

IIRC, the 932 series' Tonka wheels, those aren't turf knobbed, they're tractor tire knobbed...not sure if this would work.
 

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#38 ·
Sounds like I wrote this article! lol. I do very much the same things and I agree on older machines and the quality, but yes, they are not the best sellers because people are afraid of the age. Honestly, snowblowers have very low hours on them compared to mowers, but people fail to recognize that. First questions is always 'how old is it?" (Sigh) SO, I only buy and fix the newer machines. Yes - MTD is a big seller! I buy most of my machines at the auction houses. That leaves lots of margin for profit. rarely pay over 50 to 75 each. If I spot a real good buy of a private individual or a garage sale I might grab it up. I also bought a huge roll of conveyor belt at the auction house a few years ago..... that is what I cut new paddles from. I can flip the single stage machines pretty quick that way. The paddle kits are ridiculous in price. The only ones I buy OEM are for the Honda's. That is a much thicker and better rubber than you can get - and they are proud of them. I don't get many Honda's though. Cleaning the carbs is a one shot deal - the rebuild kits are as much as a new china carb anyway, and no guarantee it will fix the trouble. SO I keep a few in stock all the time (order them in bulk from china) I also cut my own scraper bars from flat stock, and I cut new skid shoes from sheets of HDPE plastic. You can save quite a bit on making your own parts. If I buy parts I usually buy off ebay sellers with free shipping and order multiples so I have a good stock. AS for my own personal machines - I have an old Areins 1032 and Honda HS35 for the light stuff..... I have a Craftsman (MTD) that I modified with a Honda engine and the impeller mod. That one really chucks the snow compared to the Ariens! But the quality is not there...... I still like it, and can't get myself to sell it! lol
 
#39 ·
excellent post. I can't stand that "how old is it?" question also. have seen many many machines that are only 5-10 years old that are crap and conversely seen machines 20-25-30 years old or older that are in excellent condition. I try to point that out to people. Also the older machines seem better built and I point that out also.

it all depends on the owners and how well they take care of their machines.

auction houses , eh? never thought of that avenue.
 
#40 ·
I have become super picky lately with my snow blowers.

I only buy the largest single stages from Toro and honda. Most of the time they dont need much maybe a paddle replacement.

2 stage machines I stick with honda and ariens mostly they are easy to sell and the largest profit.

I haven't been finding many machines that dont run. So just looking for people under pricing and just cleaning them up and doing routine maintenance.



Its getting close to fall and I have 6 or so backpack blowers I am waiting to sell. I get as many of the large commercial backpacks I can.

They sell like hotcakes in the fall I cant keep them in stock I sell them as fast as i can get them and are good moneymakers.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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#41 ·
I'm starting to worry that I won't have enough time to finish up my entire stockpile before the prime selling season. It doesn't help that I keep adding to the heap. Last night I brought home a $100 Honda HS55 so I'm on a negative trajectory at this point!

Resuming the topic of "advertising", I posted one of my nicer Ariens on FB Marketplace today. As always, there's an incoming flood of "Is This Available?" in FB messenger. That's because it's FB's default message in the advertisement and many (most?) users just click on it. After answering "yes" I usually don't receive a follow-up message. What a waste of time!

Speaking of time wasters, the lowballers just kill me. Most of these guys just send an insane message like "$50 cash today". I've just been ignoring them and "leave" the FB Messenger "conversation". Tonight I decided to permanently block these people. After all, I'm going to be listing many more units in the coming weeks so I'll likely get the same lowballers responding to those ads too.

How does everyone deal with tire kickers and lowballers in messages? Politely decline an absurd offer, ignore, block or ???
 
#43 ·
Now, I just discovered this feature in FB Messenger....if you click the 3 little dots next to the conversation, one of the options is "Something's Wrong". When you select that, you're presented with this screen and have the option to report a lowballer. Who knows if FB takes action but I'm going to report these people AND then block them.
 

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#44 ·
I really don't see anything wrong with low ball offers because some sellers do take them from time to time. It depends on their circumstances. They may be moving , may need money etc. Personally I do not do this but if I go to look at a machine I rarely offer to pay the asking price. I offer less and they have the choice to accept or refuse.

Now what is a lowball offer worth blocking the buyer? If you have an item for $500 and they offer $400 I tell them come on over and look at it and I may accept their offer. If they offer $50-100 then I block cause they are a time waster.

What makes me laugh is the emails that say they will give me X amount of money "GUARANTEED" ! if I will hold until Saturday or whatever day. I reply "sight unseen?" and then they say well, of course I have to inspect and look at machine , etc.

I ignore or block them also. have been tempted to send them to an address 40 miles away.
 
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