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Rust Dissolver

1678 Views 38 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  NEcraftsman536
7
I thought I would post this here. I believe sooner or later we all deal will a rusty snowblower. I have been trying this rustoleum rust dissolver, I wanted to show what it does. This is what it started out as, then I brushed it with a wire brush to knock off the lose paint. I then treated it three times with a light scrubbing with steel wool. All three Applications where done back to back with a clean water wipe down in between, then let sit overnight. I want to say the three applications I only took 45 minutes.
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Chemically eliminating the rust (via liquid or hell product) could reduce risk of either leaving behind rust particles or contaminated metal.

I also don't own a flap disc or angle grinder tool.....yet

Are you using a 90 degree angle die grinder or a straight grinder?
you can get them from harbor freight for less than 20 bucks. i have about 5 with different grit wheels on them because saves times changing disks. mine are straight but you're probably better off getting a angle one. Also have high cost Dewalts and Makita for the grinders I use all the time. Always use eye protection.

I guess using chemicals would eliminate rust from reoccuring but i havent had that problem .......yet.
Seeing those original photos is one of the reasons I'm not touching the paint on my 1971 sno thro. It's paint itself is in great condition and only missing where it looks like it was scraped and worn off from hitting something. Even the areas where it was dinged the paint is on solid. I can wipe down the entire machine and no paint chips off.

I touched up some damaged paint on my 10yr old Troy Built mower and the original paint bubbled off where I overlapped the new paint. I think I used a Fusion paint. Ended up removing all the new paint and using Farm and Implement paint which worked much better, was more compatible overlapping the original paint.
Flap disc to remove rust and loose paint, fine grit sand paper to scuff remainder of painted surface, wipe down with rag and varsol or alcohol, then apply a good quality primer and paint following manufacturer's instructions.
Just curious how often does the rust come back with the process you use?
I had retreated the bucket and it didn't seem to remove much more of the rust. I will say, on the lighter rust areas it worked really well. At least when I took the flapper disk to it after that there was a lot less dust and mess.
Just curious how often does the rust come back with the process you use?
It has been 3 years since I did a complete repaint on the 69 Ariens and 2 years since I repainted the inside of the auger housing and chute of the 74. There has been no rust or paint bubbling reappear on either machine.
Both machines have about 30 hours of use since they were repainted, photo from this winter.

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If you click on either machine in my signature, it will take you to the restoration thread for each machine.
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It has been 3 years since I did a complete repaint on the 69 Ariens and 2 years since I repainted the inside of the auger housing and chute of the 74. There has been no rust or paint bubbling reappear on either machine.
Both machines have about 30 hours of use since they were repainted, photo from this winter.

View attachment 211885

If you click on either machine in my signature, it will take you to the restoration thread for each machine.
Wow great job. Chrome handlebars.! Those restorations must have been time consuming.
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Thanks.
I spent the month of April 2020 (a few hours most days) working on the 69 Ariens and then did the 74 in April of 2021.
I call them my COVID restorations, as it was an enjoyable break from what was going on in the world at that time.
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Seems that a majority of the people in this thread regularly/comfortably use angle grinders specifically (not die grinders) to remove rust from your snow blowers? Am I correct to assume that a right angle grinder is better for this application than a die grinder? Any challenges with access to the inner impeller housing or inside your metal chutes?

As a first time restoration project and a first time using angle grinder, it seems like I am maybe better off using a flap disc to avoid removing TOO much metal although this may take a bit more time. Flap disc also seems intrinsically safer than a wire wheel.

Thoughts? Sorry for hijacking the thread. I can start a new thread if that's preferred. Thanks for the help!
Am I correct to assume that a right angle grinder is better for this application than a die grinder?
It's usually easier to control... I use whichever one provides the access I need when doing interiors, but the angle grinder shines on the exteriors.
Flap disc also seems intrinsically safer than a wire wheel.
Yup. Love flap discs.
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Any recommendations on flap disc grits for removing rust and bubbles paint?
Kind of depends on how bad the surface is. The more rust/corrosion to go through, the coarser you should start and then move to a finer grit for your final surface to repaint.
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@NE,

I usually start with anywhere from 60 or 80, and end up with like 120-240-320 grit, all depends on the item and to what degree of smoothness and finish I want to obtain.

Just so your aware, there are two types of discs, and this link explains them:

T27 vs T29 Flap Disc Differences - Empire Abrasives

I get mine mostly from Harbor Freight, as I have one in the next town. They currently have a coupon for the 4 1/2 grinder itself for 9.99. (Amazon has a bunch different flap discs as well.)
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@NE,

I usually start with anywhere from 60 or 80, and end up with like 120-240-320 grit, all depends on the item and to what degree of smoothness and finish I want to obtain.

Just so your aware, there are two types of discs, and this link explains them:

T27 vs T29 Flap Disc Differences - Empire Abrasives

I get mine mostly from Harbor Freight, as I have one in the next town. They currently have a coupon for the 4 1/2 grinder itself for 9.99. (Amazon has a bunch different flap discs as well.)
Thanks for the thoughtful information. I am going to pick up a angle grinder and flap discs from Harbor Freight today. It looks like Harbor Freight stocks T27 flap discs, 60 grit up to 120 grit and offers T29 flap discs from 36 grit up to 120 grit. Two of areas on the auger housing I'll be working on removing rust from is rounded area near the impeller (first image below) and outer, rounded surface of the impeller area (2nd and 3rd image below). Based on the link, you shared explaining the uses of T27 and T29 flap discs, it appears that the either could be used, but perhaps the T29 maybe better suited because of the rounded shape of the auger housing. Would you agree? Or would you just stick with T27 flap discs since that appears to be a good "all around" type of disc?

Although my snowblower is a very basic 2005 Craftsman (27" / 8.5 hp), I inherited it from my late father, and as a result the machine has significant sentimental value to me. My goal is to preserve the snowblower as long as possible. I've never taken on this type of restoration work before, but my plan was to use an angle grinder to remove as much rust as possible, then apply Metal Rescue or EvapoRust to catch any rust I missed, then apply a self etching Rustoleum Primer, and finish with Rustoleum "Regal Red" paint. Do you think I'll need to get a finer flap disc than 120 grit or would 120 be fine enough?

Any other thoughts or recommendations for this project?


Thanks again for all the support and knowledge sharing!

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I think 120grit at the finish would be fine ... you can always touch up by hand or even a wire wheel brush in a drill ...

I still have my father's Yardman 7100 series he bought new in like 70' .. still working great.

I don't bother with any evaporust or anything, as sanding does just fine ... then once free of rust, I wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol, prime, and paint .... allow paint to cure if you need to apply second coat....
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I have just tried these wheels for stripping paint and have had good luck with it, I have not had to use it long enough to tell how long it will last but it did a good job on some small stuff I had to clean up to be able to weld for my brother.https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...disc/12603-018/p-1642874262161909-c-10154.htm
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Have any of you tried vinegar to remove rust? I was surprised at how well it works. Try taking vinegar (5%) is the best if you can find it soak a paper towel and put it over the rusted area then cover with plastic leave it sit overnight. In the morning pull the plastic and paper towel back, with a damp towel wipe the area. Pitted areas will still have to be sanded
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I think 120grit at the finish would be fine ... you can always touch up by hand or even a wire wheel brush in a drill ...

I still have my father's Yardman 7100 series he bought new in like 70' .. still working great.

I don't bother with any evaporust or anything, as sanding does just fine ... then once free of rust, I wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol, prime, and paint .... allow paint to cure if you need to apply second coat....
Do you think I'll need type T29 or do you think I can get away with the T27 flap discs? Thanks again!
The flat ones are my main discs, but the angled ones do allow you to traverse better in the nooks and bends. Most stuff can handle the flat, and I even use my multi tool in the corners, etc....... I am not saying you have to run out and buy this stuff, but if you have them, use them.

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Thanks for the tip! I might buy the oscillating multi tool this weekend since Harbor Freight has a 25% coupon all weekend.

Any idea on how many cans of Rustoleum Self Etching primer and/or Rustoleum "Regal Red" spray paint cans I'll need to repair the auger housing?
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