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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is the very reason you have to keep your augers free spinning, and well lubed, counting on the shear pin to do its work … and never use a hardened bolt in place of a shear pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, this was a Craftsman my neighbor gave me, he bought a new machine ... hope he takes care of his new one better than this one.
 

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So far I’ve repaired 2 Ariens a craftsman and a Troy bilt that looked like that.
 

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man. i've got a real nice auger that won't come off the shaft. heated it, let it soak a couple days, reheated, pounded it, even put in a vice and used a 6 foot bar to try to move.

NOTHING.

getting irritated.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It took me awhile to get these augers off this shaft on this Craftsman.


I heated with the good Benzomatic pistol gun, using MapPro gas, tapped it, all while rigging a harmonic puller against the backside of the end of the auger blade. All the while spraying it with Trizol (best penetrating spray in my opinion) Heat, spray, tap, pull .... note also that I had an air gun on my puller , which also shocks as it pulls. .... Took a long time, and even let it sit overnight with great tension on the puller. lol ... When I started , I thought no way , but I knew I would get it with my perseverance.... rust welding is some serious stuff.....



Btw, I found and ordered the gear on the auger shaft for 19.97, + 6.99 shipping from a place called Flip Manufacturing in Texas.
 

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oneacer -- I'm having a hard time visualizing this: "a harmonic puller against the backside of the end of the auger blade." Any chance you have a picture of this set-up? Stuck augers are a real pain, yet with regular diligence (and heat and plenty of penetrating spray, pressure and tapping) they EVENTUALLY come off!


I heated with the good Benzomatic pistol gun, using MapPro gas, tapped it, all while rigging a harmonic puller against the backside of the end of the auger blade. All the while spraying it with Trizol (best penetrating spray in my opinion) Heat, spray, tap, pull .... note also that I had an air gun on my puller , which also shocks as it pulls. .... Took a long time, and even let it sit overnight with great tension on the puller. lol ... When I started , I thought no way , but I knew I would get it with my perseverance.... rust welding is some serious stuff.....



Btw, I found and ordered the gear on the auger shaft for 19.97, + 6.99 shipping from a place called Flip Manufacturing in Texas.[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
@gsnod,


Yes, here it is,works very well.


I just repainted the bucket unit, and my brass auger shaft gear should be here today. I also tapped the augers and put in new Zerk grease fittings, and will be packing the auger gear case with "00" grease.


FWIW, ... I also through in a photo of my new XTrac going on one of my Ariens. They rims were rusted bad .... I cleaned them up and ditched the tubes, and installed valve stems, as the new tires are tubless. I only use tubes on my split rims.
 

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I'll have to try that jig setup oneacer.....I've got quite a few Ariens augers that I've been putting off freeing up.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Having the air gun helps immensely, but cranking it by hand will eventually get it as well .... heat , Trizol (weasel piss), tap auger shaft, turn puller .... repeat .... :)


If you feel you are getting nowhere, spray it, make sure there is tension on it, and let it sit overnight.


Eventually, you will notice the slightest movement, then you know its only a matter of time
 

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Having the air gun helps immensely, but cranking it by hand will eventually get it as well .... heat , Trizol (weasel piss), tap auger shaft, turn puller .... repeat .... :)


If you feel you are getting nowhere, spray it, make sure there is tension on it, and let it sit overnight.


Eventually, you will notice the slightest movement, then you know its only a matter of time
you know , I have done dozens of these so know just about every method but i have one from a hs724 that just won't come off. I heat it 3-4 times, let penetrating oil soak. (it is not going thru ) banged it until I was sore , put it vise and used a 6 foot pry bar . just about everything I can think and not one mm of budge.

my last step is to install onto the auger housing and use a pipe wrench with a cheater bar.

the auger itself is in beautiful condition. The owner kept it outside for 15-20 years always tarped. the other side was stuck but not too bad. I'd hate to have to cut it off. a new auger is over $200 . Have already spent several hours on this over the last 3-4 days.

I even drilled a couple holes into it where the auger tranny shaft is to try to get penetrating oil around the shaft.
 

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This is a cool set-up. Makes sense to put in grease zirks when you've got the augers off the shafts, although most owners won't own a grease gun. Still -- it's the right thing to do, and even having a layer of grease from 10 years ago will help with keeping the rust away.
 

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Keeping your augur shaft greased is a lot easier to do if your machine has zerks which is one of the advantages I see in buying an Ariens. No zerks on my 2017 Toro 826. I'm thinking I'm going to have to tilt the machine sideways and try to dribble 3in1 oil down the the shafts. Not sure what else I can do other than dissassembly and I'm too old, too non-handy for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@ Barny,


There is a penetrating oil out there called Trizol ... I have been using it for years. If you have no way to grease the auger from its shaft, I would pull the shear pin/bolt , and spray that in the bolt hole, as well as in both ends of the auger, and then spin the auger, and replace the shear bolt/pin. That penetrating oil is great stuff, and will be sucked down the shaft ends, as well as in the bolt hole. I would do this in the beginning and end of each season
 

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I use a bearing separator on the auger end, a 1/2-13 bolt threaded into the auger shaft end to protect the threaded hole ( and it has a partially drilled / countersunk center hole in the head to keep puller from wandering ), and a big puller on the end. Heat and oil help with the stubborn ones. Sometimes I even use three foot pipe wrenches on them to get the initial rust bond to break.

 
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This was a tough one, had to break out the 2' & 3' pipe wrenches to get the job done !!!
If you zoom in to the end of the auger shaft you can see my custom bolt to protect the threaded hole.

 
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Discussion Starter #18
Again, … proof that with the right tools, yankee ingenuity, and perseverance, there is no rust weld that can not be broken sooner or later, some just take a little more time and persuasion … :)
 

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you know , I have done dozens of these so know just about every method but i have one from a hs724 that just won't come off. I heat it 3-4 times, let penetrating oil soak. (it is not going thru ) banged it until I was sore , put it vise and used a 6 foot pry bar . just about everything I can think and not one mm of budge.

my last step is to install onto the auger housing and use a pipe wrench with a cheater bar.
What are you heating with, and for how long? Oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane would be your best bet if you have access or can borrow it.

Have you tried water quenching? I didn't see that mentioned. It's saved my bacon on several occasions, even with a lowly propane torch. It'll likely take several heating and cooling cycles though.
 

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What are you heating with, and for how long? Oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane would be your best bet if you have access or can borrow it.

Have you tried water quenching? I didn't see that mentioned. It's saved my bacon on several occasions, even with a lowly propane torch. It'll likely take several heating and cooling cycles though.
thanks. that water quenching has worked in the past. in most cases i can get them off over time. I have been defeated twice though but after seeing Shaws /Oneacer posts with the bearing pulling set up looking forward to do battle again with the extreme cases
 
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