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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I would overfill the crankcase with whatever you decide as to soak the the rod and crank if that rod is seized on crank journal.

it just seems like there is permanent damage here anyways but it's always nice to try.

all this time you could have opened up engine by now and found out what's going on.......
I'm currently winterizing the entire driveline of my '15 GMC Sierra. New battery, spark plugs, wires. Front and rear differentials, transfer case and transmission. You can definitely expect my Honda engine removal / teardown when I get notice from my local Honda Power Equipment dealer customer callback to see if an exact engine is readily available from their warehouses somewhere in the USA to ship to me which is probably the route I'm taking warrantywise. Here you can see I'm mechanically inclined to tackle the job. Been wrenching on Chevys since I was kid. Spraying down the black oxidation before it's refilled with Amsoil 75W90.
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I used to wrench on auto repairs, pulled engines, etc ... stick to some stuff I can get at now, but I no longer have access to a lift, so that stuff goes into my local repair shop.

Now that I am retired, I found a nice hobby on restoring snowblowers and other small equipment... :)
 

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More HP and more TQ sounds like a good idea to upgrade my snowblower however does the crankshaft snout align with the factory pulley height and setup from what the Honda HSS1332ATD specs call for?

It has been 12 hours after I flooded the cylinder bore with Liquid Wrench. I still cannot turn the crankshaft and the Auger Torque Sensor throws a red light at me comically. I'm draining any fluids now and proceeding to try the ATF Acetone experiment and throw 1.5 quarts of that in the crankcase hole and let it sit longer.

Did you remove the belts?
 

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More HP and more TQ sounds like a good idea to upgrade my snowblower however does the crankshaft snout align with the factory pulley height and setup from what the Honda HSS1332ATD specs call for?

It has been 12 hours after I flooded the cylinder bore with Liquid Wrench. I still cannot turn the crankshaft and the Auger Torque Sensor throws a red light at me comically. I'm draining any fluids now and proceeding to try the ATF Acetone experiment and throw 1.5 quarts of that in the crankcase hole and let it sit longer.
I suspect they would since it is a honda clone but I cant say for sure.

They list all of the dems on their page and you can compare it to the honda gx390

The first thing i would do it get it on the bench and take the front cover and head off.
 

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ya. a harbor freight honda clone will work for fraction of cost. use the search box on the honda sun forum. lots of discussions there on this.
 

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Pull the engine and take it apart. If you're lucky you can clean up the crank, hone cylinder and put in a rod, piston, and rings. I'm guessing the bore is scored badly though. If so buy a Chinese Honda clone and swap over all the external parts from your current engine.
 

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Chances are the piston is just stuck...you usually bust a rod and hear alot of noise from an oil starvation issue that involves busting the rod.
Tip the machine to where the the cylinder is vertical..put some Penetrate down the spark plug hole.Let sit overnight.
Put the machine with the wheels on the ground.....Take a heat gun ..portable heater..what have you and heat the cylinder..Use the wrench on the crank pulley to try to loosen the crank bolt this won't you don't have to worry about twisting it off.
If no luck...remove the head...tap with a piece of wood and hammer...If no luck you will have destroy the piston.
This is all assuming the piston is stuck...which is usually what happens when the engine locks up from lack of oil.
You can still have other damage that can crop up in a couple hours of running time later.



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Chances are the piston is just stuck...you usually bust a rod and hear alot of noise from an oil starvation issue that involves busting the rod.
Tip the machine to where the the cylinder is vertical..put some Penetrate down the spark plug hole.Let sit overnight.
Put the machine with the wheels on the ground.....Take a heat gun ..portable heater..what have you and heat the cylinder..Use the wrench on the crank pulley to try to loosen the crank bolt this won't you don't have to worry about twisting it off.
If no luck...remove the head...tap with a piece of wood and hammer...If no luck you will have destroy the piston.
This is all assuming the piston is stuck...which is usually what happens when the engine locks up from lack of oil.
You can still have other damage that can crop up in a couple hours of running time later.



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Respectfully disagree. Lack of oil almost always finds first trouble at the big end of the rod / crankpin. Often the rod will break and the piston will fall down into the bore jamming the crank by the rod coming between the crank pin and the block. I did not read all of the responses. Did anyone suggest trying to turn the crank backwards? If what I suggested has happened it will turn easy and then jam again. The use of coke or penetrating oil is worth a try if the reason the motor has seized was it was left out in the weather for a few years and the rings rusted to the bore. If you were turning reasonable RPMs at the time of failure you may be able to get by with a rod and crank. While it is apart look over the governor gear, many are plastic and can melt under the extra heat created by the lack of lube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Acknowledged. Piston bore is free of a bath of a cocktail of heavy duty penetrants and the crankcase is filled with ATF/Acetone for about 2 days now. Being a trucker I'm days away from returning to this weekend project for it's teardown and carnage report.
 

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Respectfully disagree. Lack of oil almost always finds first trouble at the big end of the rod / crankpin. Often the rod will break and the piston will fall down into the bore jamming the crank by the rod coming between the crank pin and the block. I did not read all of the responses. Did anyone suggest trying to turn the crank backwards? If what I suggested has happened it will turn easy and then jam again. The use of coke or penetrating oil is worth a try if the reason the motor has seized was it was left out in the weather for a few years and the rings rusted to the bore. If you were turning reasonable RPMs at the time of failure you may be able to get by with a rod and crank. While it is apart look over the governor gear, many are plastic and can melt under the extra heat created by the lack of lube.
Usually when the rod busts on these you can free wheel the engine at least partially anyway...Usually they leave a hole in the side of the engine with the rod in several pieces...I usually find the piston at the top when the rod breaks not the bottom....they usually bust right below the wrist pin and make alot of noise while the engine coasts down and beats the flopping rod into several pieces.
Since his engine is actually locked up I pointed him to a seized piston.

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My money is on it being siezed, not a thrown rod. However being seized it can be both the upper and/or lower end, the piston rings siezed to the bore and the connecting rod, most common or siezed to the crank. Both, or 1 or the other. We won't know until he opens it, or if he finally breaks it free. It's a waiting game now. He may get lucky and just need a crank, rod, oversized piston and rings and the bore machined, or he may just need a new set of rings and the bore honed, or maybe he'll get really lucky and break it free and runs fine. Just gonna have to wait and see. That's a lot cheaper than a short block or new engine. If it was me and this happened and It was a honda I just paid $3500 a couple years back, I would replace it with another honda engine, not another brand. Theirs many machines I would drop a Predator on, but not a nearly new top of the line honda. That machine would get another honda engine, if it was me. Interested to find out the outcome if this situation.
 

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I know many of you will disagree but in mild applications such as a snowblower buying a Honda engine is just a waste of money. Is it marginally better then a Honda clone, yes. But is it worth 2, 3 or 4 times the price, no, absolutly not. I have not researched it but would it surprise anybody if lots of Honda engines or many of it's parts are made in China?
 

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I have not researched it but would it surprise anybody if lots of Honda engines or many of it's parts are made in China?
All GX engines for the U.S. market are made in the excellent Honda engine plant in Thailand, and have been for many years. The HSS 2-stage and single stage HS720 machines are all built in Swepsonville, NC. In fact, the HS720 is the ONLY snowblower built entirely in the USA, since its GC190 engine is also completely built in Swepsonville.

It would be best if you DID do some research, starting here: Honda Snow Blower Information Repository
 

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All GX engines for the U.S. market are made in the excellent Honda engine plant in Thailand, and have been for many years. The HSS 2-stage and single stage HS720 machines are all built in Swepsonville, NC. In fact, the HS720 is the ONLY snowblower built entirely in the USA, since its GC190 engine is also completely built in Swepsonville.

It would be best if you DID do some research, starting here: Honda Snow Blower Information Repository
There should be a winner face.
 

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I know many of you will disagree but in mild applications such as a snowblower buying a Honda is just a waste of money. Is it marginally better then a Honda clone, yes. But is it worth 2, 3 or 4 times the price, no, absolutly not. I have not researched it but would it surprise anybody if lots of Honda engines or many of it's parts are made in China?
We Honda people hear this ALL THE TIME. ........you are probably right about using a cheaper blower for "mild" applications but please do your homework as you should.

There is a LOT of cheap JUNK out there that uses plastic parts in their trannies. Those $599 and $799 specials you see all lined up at the big box stores. OOOHHHH , they look so SHINY and nice.
Lucky if they work for 3 storms before breaking.

I suggest watching donyboy73 on you tube. He has excellent videos on what to look for in a good used snowblower and the ones to stay away from.

I cant change the mind of people like you. NOT trying to but I laugh every time I hear about how buying a Honda is a waste of money .

I don't think my neighbor thinks so. He bought a Honda HS828 about 25 years ago brand new for $1899 and recently sold it for $1800. Very common around the Lake Tahoe area. I sell many Honda's that are 20-30-40 years old for more than the original cost . ( yes I know the difference in the USD value in these periods ) But what other brand snowblower can you do this?

good luck grasshopper
 
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