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Discussion Starter #1
I'll be picking up a new Pro 28 with the Briggs motor hopefully tomorrow and will be doing my own assembly. I've worked on my old MTD several times and am very well inclined mechanically and have plenty of tools. I've watched the setup videos for other models and am wondering if there might be anything extra on the Pro models? Any grease fittings that might need some now or in the future? Seems flipping up the bars and hooking up a couple cables and rods will be straight forward and cantingine the chute being too difficult. I've read others say the instructions aren't much more than a few pictures so trying to make sure I'm prepared. I was planning to adjust the scraper edge using a layer or two of cardboard to get the 1/8th inch or so gap set with the skids. I've seen mention of a torque wrnech but I'm guessing this can all be done by feel with someone that's worked on things often. I'm not bolting a cylinder head down. Lol I welcome any feedback.
 

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From what I remember when I did mine, I think you've got it covered. There are grease fittings, but on mine, everything showed signs of being well greased from the factory, so I didn't squirt any in until after the machine had some hours on it.

I'm pretty sure engine oil came pre-filled, but that should definitely be checked before startup.
 

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Before you adjust the scraper make sure to check and set the tire air pressure to specs.
 

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Since your new machine has not been set-up by a dealer you should check everything. There are 5 grease nipples, 4 on the auger that should be greased after removing the shear bolts so the auger shafts can be rotated to spread the grease. There is a grease nipple on the right side near the axle that lubricates a part of the transmission that needs just 2 shots with a grease gun to avoid excess grease in the trans area. A flex hose will get in there but better to remove both wheels to lubricate the axles since salty water gets in there and corrodes wheel to axle. I would remove the bottom chassis pan to check for lubrication, usually not lubricated from the factory.

The AutoTurn requires the chassis to be square so Ariens posted a DIY video in the first post of this thread to help you: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/12298-ariens-auto-turn-adjustment.html The bucket is not heavy so perhaps cardboard is OK as a measure of skid plate height above the pavement. A more universal approach is to use a couple of wooden paint stir sticks that are usually 1/8" thick.

The wheel drive and impeller drive clutch cables should be checked for adjustment. The impeller belts adjustment should be checked too. The auger gearbox oil (Ariens L3) should be set to a particular level given in the owner manual since you cannot see the level from the top mounted plug.

Check that the chute moves all the way left and right and it locks into position (pulling back on handle releases the lock). The chute flap may need adjustment so that it allows the spring to raise the flap to full height. The low flap position is then automatically set below horizontal according to cable. If the flap does not move freely then check that flap does not press too tightly against the chute sides.

As someone mentioned ensure engine oil can be seen on the dipstick at proper level before starting engine. If you have electric start then run it with the ignition turned off to move the engine oil around the engine before starting.
 

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Seems minor, but makes a difference.....check the tire pressure.
 

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Excellent point

Before you adjust the scraper make sure to check and set the tire air pressure to specs.
Thanks for this. Going to check my Ariens tomorrow and completely forgot about checking the tire air pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I got the machine home and all went pretty well. Had to refer back to instructions for one part of routing cables but the rest was seemingly common sense to me. I'm waiting to get some ethanol free gas to fire it up though. The advice about the tire pressure was good advice as I found the tires at about 11/12 psi. The engine shows a 2017 build date so this machine has sat around in storage for a bit now. I will definitely spin the motor over a bit before firing it up to let the oil move around a bit before firing it up.

I have a problem though!!!

I moved the machine home with a U Haul and opened the box and bolted the handle bars to the machine in the back of the truck before pushing the machine down the rap into my garage. After removing the packing materials I decided to sweep the truck to make sure nothing was left behind. To my horror I find the clip pictured. Sure eniough I found a couple of the same clips in the back of the machine where the rods come out of the machine and control cables attach. All appear to be in place where needed on my first once over?? I plan to look things over in the next day or two again as it was late and I needed a break.

Can anyone tell me where this style clip should be located in the machine? I'm assuming this wasn't just an extra that accidentally fel in the box and made it all the way to me.

Appreciate any advice.
 

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I can't help with that clip, but a suggestion for setting the height on the scraper blade. I use some 1/8" thick steel shims that I found laying around. I think cardboard would have some give to it, not sure. I believe you could stack up a couple of quarters as well.
Good luck with the clip.
 

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.... To my horror I find the clip pictured. Sure eniough I found a couple of the same clips in the back of the machine where the rods come out of the machine and control cables attach. All appear to be in place where needed on my first once over?? I plan to look things over in the next day or two again as it was late and I needed a break.

Can anyone tell me where this style clip should be located in the machine? I'm assuming this wasn't just an extra that accidentally fel in the box and made it all the way to me.

Appreciate any advice.
That clip is used as a stop for the friction wheel assembly on the hex shaft. So two clips.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm staring to believe this may be a freak clip left behind from someone else. Looking over the machine quickly again 90% of the hardware and springs are cadmium plated (gold) or silver. This clip is very much black. I see the 2 clips on the speed control lever are present, as well as one on the auger lever. These clips, and all clips in the handle bar controls are cadmium plated. Also this black clip is notably larger than any itlf the other clips. Should I pull the belly pan off and look around in there? Are these style clips used somewhere else on the machine as well?
 

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I'm staring to believe this may be a freak clip left behind from someone else. Looking over the machine quickly again 90% of the hardware and springs are cadmium plated (gold) or silver. This clip is very much black. I see the 2 clips on the speed control lever are present, as well as one on the auger lever. These clips, and all clips in the handle bar controls are cadmium plated. Also this black clip is notably larger than any itlf the other clips. Should I pull the belly pan off and look around in there? Are these style clips used somewhere else on the machine as well?
You are probably correct that the clip is not from your machine. My machine only has 2 clips of that size and they are on the hex shaft. The attached pic shows one of the two clips on the hex shaft that act as stops. The visible clip is the forward limit while the reverse limit clip is hidden by the friction wheel assembly in reverse stop position. I would take off the belly pan anyway to ensure gears and chain are lubricated sparingly as well as the hex shaft needs to be lubricated very sparingly. At same time you can check that both clips are in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for the picture. That definitely looks like the clip so I'll definitely pull the pan to be safe and look things over in general to be safe. Thank you the picture was very useful.
 
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